JLSleather

It's possible that etsy might have been more appropriately named "cutesy". There are some quality items sold there, but they are largely drowned in a sea of ....well..... something else. In the leather category, the big sellers appear to be luggage tags and eye patch (yeah, like a pirate). Really. I list patterns over there due to some tax considerations way too long-winded for here. But, doing the homework, it seems that etsy sellers generally agree that sales are a result of traffic driven from other sites - usually some 'social' thing. Which of course, leaves the question -- if they found your belt on some social goop, then WHY send them to etsy to buy it? So you can pay the etsy fees? You could have just used paypal right from where you were. That may sound silly, but I recently spoke with some people who use those etsy card readers. Craft fairs and such. People buy something, hand them cash. Then they go in, "report" it on etsy so that the visible 'count' of their sales goes up. I think that works out about 7% of the price - which they donated WHY? Ahhh.. not my problem .. just information. As for the belt, I like to see a guy tooling a belt because he likes tooled belts, and likes tooling belts. Have I seen that design somewhere before? Looks a bit familiar. From a money standpoint, $150 per belt would work if you don't have hours and hours in it. Some perspective, maybe. Welfare recipients "make" $800-$1000 per month, plus generally food and shelter (lets not get into the medical benefits). So, how hard should we work to earn that same amount as the one who - for instance - goes fishing every day? Again, just thinking out loud here.....

Anyone got a source for 794 needles, size 24 and 25, with an LL point? Bob, Steve, Campbell-Randall, and even ebay all checked with no use.

Pics are a bit tough to view sideways, but I think it looks purdy good, and CERTAINLY better than MY first run (which was disposed of before anyone other than me could see it!). Stitchin looks purdy consistent, too! Keep it up.

At 10-12 oz, I usually am about 1/8" from the edge, but this is for the look and I'm sure you could run closer than that.

Email sent. Have i got one I kin swap ya?

Yep, I'll give it a shot. How you work that?

Spittin image of this one http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Browning_Buck_Mark#/media/File:Browning_buckmark.jpg

I need a pattern, or a dummy gun. Or both. Anyone? Browning buckmark .22 5.5"

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He didn't have a holster mold for the 2.5" ... ?

Tough to tell from the pic... is that the M&P 9c (third row)?

Sucked in by the word "observation" (some may have noticed my "signature" under my posts). Like many, I knew virtually nothing about machines to stitch leather. But, I do observe, and I form my own opinions. I'll ask for advice or opinions, but in the end I'll make my own decision. I still don't know a great deal about leather stitchers. I'm not a sewing machine designer or builder, nor do I care to be. But, we were talking about observations. I don't have anything to gain or lose from stating my opinion, so .. some observation, for what it's worth. In the little time I've looked, I can see that the ones you see heavily marketed around here are not the standard which "set the bar". On the other hand, the machines "around" the site run about half the price of those "real" ones. Keep in mind, the ones I'm calling "real" ones are based on some of my own observations and some of that gathered information I referred to. Is makes sense that machines would be sold here and dealers would advertise here. I am not aware of any other single place where there are so many people who might be interested in that type of product, and who often have no idea what to look for. Someone has - in effect - put all the fish in one barrel for them. I've seen people adamantly recommend "machine A" or "machine B" as the "goal" that a leather worker should aspire to -- only to find out that they don't own one, and are merely repeating what someone else said. Which they heard from someone, who heard from someone .... (in the same barrel, you know). In the end, a guy might just take all the info he has, and either buy a machine --- or don't.

Darn auto correct. That should say "popular in the SIXTIES"

Just to be clear, I'm talking about leaving material at the LOOP... leaving the LOOP broad as possible.

That one is a bit of it's own style. Frame and cylinder size similar to the S/W K frames, but with a top rib and underlug ....

Even the 5" 1911 so popular in the sixties only use 2/3 to a foot of leather. Add a steel thumb break stiffener, line 20 or 24 snap, thread, dye, some type of finish, and you're still talking $10 (not 40).

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I'm not aware of a gun mold for that particular model. But, that Ruger is going to be WAY too big. You'd be closer with the SP101 (still not exact, though). The diamond back gonna fall 'tween the smith "J" and "K" frames, so perhaps you could start with a K-frame for rough size, then suck the stitch line in a bit with the actual weapon (I "think" it's a difference of less that 1/16")

Well, from an investment standpoint, things that don't go well cost some money and some time. But this (and holsters in general) is a simple job. For the sig, if you're using THE top shelf leather, total investment including dye and thread is like .. $6-ish (allowing a bit of waste). And you wouldn't have to invest a lot of time to go far enough with it to see if it's going to work. Some things, just gotta write 'em off to experience and move on. Having said all that, I talked to another holster maker I know yesterday. He agrees that the 238 is thinner, and will not stay in a holster made for the 938 (and the 938 doesn't go in a holster formed to teh 238).

Yeah, me too. Some of the early work probably left people wondering just what that cow did to ME! Listen to the stories, some o' these folks was born knowing how to suck, fill a diaper, and make a holster Personally, I prefer the honest ones (and the Jarhead insignia don't hurt nuthin'). So, bare bones from an old Jarhead who's interested in holsters. This is a bit much, but I like that a guy was honest enough to look at the early work and pitch it, but came back to hit it again anyway. The 'fuzzy' on the back of the leather is the leather. Get a decent piece, that comes without that. The front piece on yours, I like. It's new and different - and that's probably what I like about it. Follows the contour of the weapon nicely too.. tha's jus good practice. The back of that piece, maybe not so much. That little curve on the top right (to where it meets the holster body) is just extra work and doesn't gain anything. I would keep the slot (in the panel) narrower. The issue is not the slot, but rather what is left and the more material you can leave there the better. Standard punch width (about 3/16" is plenty). Yes, a 1/4" thick belt will fit that easily... no point in the long version explanation here. Oh, and suck that stitch line in a bit (but, you knew that). You carry that Sig yourself? Lemme know, and I'll get you a pattern designed for that 938 if ya like. It's free - for just being honest enough not to say you're going to use it if you aren't.

I've seen them interchanged. For me, I thought the 238 was a tad slimmer, but that could have simply been machining tolerances (no, I don't believe that, but it is possible). Do you have the dummy for the 9mm? IF IT WAS ME, I'd probably make the holster for the 938 the same as always, maybe even git "fancy" and cut it 3/8" shorter on the muzzle end. Have the guy drop the 238 in and see how he likes the fit. Now, all that would be my choice, simply because: Ideally, a guy could buy the 238 dummy gun (seriously, we're only talkin $50). BUT, if it's the same, then you didn't really need to buy that, organize that, store that.... IF on the other hand it's not the same, does not 'guarantee' the fit. I've seen Ring's guns that measured as much as .03" UNDERSIZE for the gun they represent. While the leather will accomodate that difference, it does defeat the purpose of buying the second gun.

So, like this one then?

Man, where have I been? Had no idea all these sites even existed. It's like "will work for food", only we all agree that there won't be any food. Or work.

Ray cast this one from the 6" python, but if he's not carrying it any more, the smith L-frame is VERY close in TOTAL size. I make a hip holster that fits both pretty well. If however you are molding the holster, that rib down the top of the python changes all of that.