JLSleather

You post it twice You post it twice

That batch is gone, fellas. I'll do some more diggin later this afternoon.

There's no "ordering" ta do, just a clean up where i thought I could see my space and a fella could git decent leather without a mortgage There is one fella spoke up earlier might want some, let's give 'im a chance to decide if he wants it

I admit it... my blood pressure jumps a few points any time I hear "high" and "holster" in the same breath. But that does look like it "sucks in" purdy good. Only thing, you might want to split the back when using a thumb break strap. Whole point is, the snap should break free and out the way smoothly. With yours, that's a lot of material to push out the way, particularly if there's shirt or belly up agin the back of the holster Here's what I mean.... Hopefullly that makes sense. By cutting out that slot, now your thumb only has to move that tab, not the whole back of the holster. Make the snap pop much easier.

That photographs well. Is that tool chest drawer liner, maybe?

Enough responses to this to post pics under here. There's actually a bit more than this, but this will give a fella the main idea. Tossin' in some 3/4 oz to line straps with, and there'll be a bit o W/C when I trim a couple hides, which goes if a guy kin use it. Good lookin' leather front and back. Oh -- tha's a 6' ruler and a 24" square ... so ... I flipped 'em over and wrote the length on some ...

I like it, but then I"m a fisherman and I admit I had to google "spotted sea trout". That looks a LOT like what a northern boy call a WALLEYE Anyway, nice work.. look forward ta seein' the rest o' the set!

Cleaning up time around here again. One day, I'll be smarter, and I'll do it BEFORE tax time inventory! Anyway, I have some 1 1/2" wide strips of Hermann Oak tooling leather in 6/7 and 7/8 oz, along with some other irregular pieces that should get used. The belt strips are the same leather I use for the belts on the etsy site (link below), which are carved and then lined with either 2/3 or 3/4 oz lining. I see that SLC sells strips (don't know if they're even H.0.) and the "wholesale" price is $15. This seems extreme to me, since I can buy B-grade backs (no belly leather) and cut my own for more like $10. Any interest, lemme know what you need and how long - I think most of these strips wil be in the 45-55" range. I do want to clean out around here, but largely the idea is to boost the 'new guy', so how 'bout we give the newcomer a shot at these. Buy a few, and I'll 'toss in' some 3/4 to line 'em with Oh, I like paypal - but I don't care for ebay, so ....

Me, too, Red. So, if you wanna unbuckle yer britches, you have to set the firearm down first ... ?

Or a girl? Or the camera was upside down? Is it just me, or is the stitch length longer on the keepers than on the belt? Which is okay, just wondering if there's a reason for that.

'Preciate ya fellas.. checked all the above Cobra 4 machine. I took the needle out, took the hook/shuttle assembly out to clear any debris (like maybe I'll find the tip of a needle down there?), brushed the tip of the hook with some 600 grit wet, cleaned everything back as far as the feed dog, oiled until my shoe was full (actually, thought i might flush something too small to see). Ran the machine a bit without the plate or a needle, watched the oil coat the race. Nothing 'crashing', but I'm getting the occasional skipped stitch (which never happened before today). Guess I'll check it again in the morning. After over an hour in there, I can say that it is NOT worse than it was!

Anybody know what causes this cobra to knock the end of the needle? Bends outward -- ONLY in reverse. And I don't mean "flex" the needle, I mean there's a crisp sound, and then the needle is destroyed. No detectable damage on the shuttle assembly.

Guessin' Bob doan mind if'n I make this a bit easier to save. TN411.pdf

So, do you actually MAKE something, or just add a mark-up to what someone else did? Confusing ....

Where is the video? I think most of those you see on here were uploaded first to u-tub, then linked here.

Sent

Tough to tell from your picture... is that a model 19, or the 27?

Have to answer that question with a question. What is it you want to sew? What do you mean by "best"? Machine performance regardless of price? Best combination of function and price?

I don't think you'll like triple thread look, and it's unnecessary. Backstitch a couple holes on each end - it's not going anywhere. I often backstitch one extra hole, so I can pull one thread through and have them both on the back. That's probably not necessary either

You have received some good points, if you watched the sam andrews video. One of the very few videos in an ocean of u-tube dross that is actually worth seeing.

Deleted my initial response here. I'm gonna 'wait n see' with this one. But here's the fraction of my post that remained........ 'Retention" is not about creating a 'catch' somewhere on the weapon. Keep in mind that many LW people aren't holster makers (and because someone has folded a piece of leather and sewn it, does not make a 'holster maker'). And someone making a comment (including me) followed by 8 er 10 people saying "yeah, what HE said" does not make it true...

How wide are these straps? Is the 60" in one piece, or multiple pieces attached in some way (stitching/buckle/rivet/etc)? Do you need strength, or is some stretch acceptable? Will they be carved at all? Are they single-layer, or mutiple-layer, and what total thickness do you need? Are they being colored individually, or would you benefit from a leather that is already dyed? These are all questions you might consider. After that, square footage is just that... simple math. Your 60" is 5 feet, and if you only need 8 strips say 1.5" wide, then you have 12" wide (after trimming to straight) or 1 foot. 5x1 = 5 square feet. Having said that, not going to happen where you'll find a cow that grew the correct shape and size. You can get that cut somewhere - buying just that cut - but the charge for cutting makes that undesirable. Better to just buy a double shoulder or bend, as required, and cut what you need. As a rule, the double shoulder section is going to cost less "up front", but if you need one-piece straps the bend or back sections will allow you less waste. ^ or half dozen... There's a bit more, but that may be a solid start...

But the l-frame does

By "detective", I assume you're talking about the old Colt revolver? There's a couple "patterns" for an OWB style holster in an OLD publication (the gun didn't change, so still good). Might be just the thing you're looking for. And, for a few dollars, you have two of those, plus a number of other patterns and designs. From the standpoint of selling patterns, this may be a shoot-myself-in-the-foot thing, but .. it happens https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1162-holster-and-gun-belt-pattern-pack.aspx?

Oh, long as I'm whining anyway -- if you use those kits available at one retailer -- PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't tell me I don't know how much I can take of that "for a large semi-auto" or "medium revolver". What are being called holsters everywhere with the leather up on the grip of the weapon (no way to get a grip on it), belt loops that let the gun 'sag' away from the body, ughhh.. holsters are NOT 'one size fits all'.... And this file is not a class. In fact, it actually says it's not a class HolsterInstruct.pdf