JLSleather

Me, too, Red. So, if you wanna unbuckle yer britches, you have to set the firearm down first ... ?

Or a girl? Or the camera was upside down? Is it just me, or is the stitch length longer on the keepers than on the belt? Which is okay, just wondering if there's a reason for that.

'Preciate ya fellas.. checked all the above Cobra 4 machine. I took the needle out, took the hook/shuttle assembly out to clear any debris (like maybe I'll find the tip of a needle down there?), brushed the tip of the hook with some 600 grit wet, cleaned everything back as far as the feed dog, oiled until my shoe was full (actually, thought i might flush something too small to see). Ran the machine a bit without the plate or a needle, watched the oil coat the race. Nothing 'crashing', but I'm getting the occasional skipped stitch (which never happened before today). Guess I'll check it again in the morning. After over an hour in there, I can say that it is NOT worse than it was!

Anybody know what causes this cobra to knock the end of the needle? Bends outward -- ONLY in reverse. And I don't mean "flex" the needle, I mean there's a crisp sound, and then the needle is destroyed. No detectable damage on the shuttle assembly.

Guessin' Bob doan mind if'n I make this a bit easier to save. TN411.pdf

So, do you actually MAKE something, or just add a mark-up to what someone else did? Confusing ....

Where is the video? I think most of those you see on here were uploaded first to u-tub, then linked here.

Sent

Tough to tell from your picture... is that a model 19, or the 27?

Have to answer that question with a question. What is it you want to sew? What do you mean by "best"? Machine performance regardless of price? Best combination of function and price?

I don't think you'll like triple thread look, and it's unnecessary. Backstitch a couple holes on each end - it's not going anywhere. I often backstitch one extra hole, so I can pull one thread through and have them both on the back. That's probably not necessary either

You have received some good points, if you watched the sam andrews video. One of the very few videos in an ocean of u-tube dross that is actually worth seeing.

Deleted my initial response here. I'm gonna 'wait n see' with this one. But here's the fraction of my post that remained........ 'Retention" is not about creating a 'catch' somewhere on the weapon. Keep in mind that many LW people aren't holster makers (and because someone has folded a piece of leather and sewn it, does not make a 'holster maker'). And someone making a comment (including me) followed by 8 er 10 people saying "yeah, what HE said" does not make it true...

How wide are these straps? Is the 60" in one piece, or multiple pieces attached in some way (stitching/buckle/rivet/etc)? Do you need strength, or is some stretch acceptable? Will they be carved at all? Are they single-layer, or mutiple-layer, and what total thickness do you need? Are they being colored individually, or would you benefit from a leather that is already dyed? These are all questions you might consider. After that, square footage is just that... simple math. Your 60" is 5 feet, and if you only need 8 strips say 1.5" wide, then you have 12" wide (after trimming to straight) or 1 foot. 5x1 = 5 square feet. Having said that, not going to happen where you'll find a cow that grew the correct shape and size. You can get that cut somewhere - buying just that cut - but the charge for cutting makes that undesirable. Better to just buy a double shoulder or bend, as required, and cut what you need. As a rule, the double shoulder section is going to cost less "up front", but if you need one-piece straps the bend or back sections will allow you less waste. ^ or half dozen... There's a bit more, but that may be a solid start...

But the l-frame does

By "detective", I assume you're talking about the old Colt revolver? There's a couple "patterns" for an OWB style holster in an OLD publication (the gun didn't change, so still good). Might be just the thing you're looking for. And, for a few dollars, you have two of those, plus a number of other patterns and designs. From the standpoint of selling patterns, this may be a shoot-myself-in-the-foot thing, but .. it happens https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1162-holster-and-gun-belt-pattern-pack.aspx?

Oh, long as I'm whining anyway -- if you use those kits available at one retailer -- PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE don't tell me I don't know how much I can take of that "for a large semi-auto" or "medium revolver". What are being called holsters everywhere with the leather up on the grip of the weapon (no way to get a grip on it), belt loops that let the gun 'sag' away from the body, ughhh.. holsters are NOT 'one size fits all'.... And this file is not a class. In fact, it actually says it's not a class HolsterInstruct.pdf

Camano -- I'd be interested in seein' that list o' "worthwhile" videos -- so much of utube is like wading through.. well... doesn't matter Still, if you've done some weeding,... And +2 on the Stohlman book (which is +1, plus I'll say it agin). Great, clear information in there which is very helpful for holster makin', even if you never make any of those exact holsters. Not sure the patterns are entirely dated, I still get asked about one of these every so often ... Recommendations don't come as easily at my place as some others, I think. Most of us could make a line drawing with a pencil since we were 3, and anybody can upload a video fast and free (and nearly every has!). Much like the MANY videos out there, the trick is to weed out the useful information. I saw half a dozen last night that came up along side something I was searching for. 10-12 minute videos of a piece of leather going around in a stitcher. Then another one with a different piece of leather doing the same thing... etc.... I was wondering if I got sidetracked onto some leather stitcher ads. Guy's name don't maybe matter, but what you end up with is a guy with 30 (ish) videos that don't actually teach anything ! You'd think I'd quit gittin sucked inta that! I say all that to say this: I do have some patterns available, and there will be considerably more if I ever get them in the computer! But more important than a drawing on the paper, is the principle behind where the lines are. Camano is correct - there is some useful info around here. As for a "class", I'd recommend looking for someone in your local area. And I mean someone who knows leather and knows WHY that holster is shaped like it is. By way of cheap intro (as in free) here's a little picture I send to pretty much everybody - including customers who have no intention of ever making their own holster. AboutHolsters.pdf

You missin' the point, Boss. We all seen videos that go on and on and get NOWHERE. You thought they would be worth checking, which is why we clicked in the first place! But it seemed like it was my turn to have a pointless video that doesn't actually show you! But, yeah, been meanin' to clean that up a bit. Apparently, u-tube (Google) ranks videos by the TIME that they are watched, which accounts for some of the people with half hour videos that drone on. But I personally give up -- I won't be uploadin' pics er vids without havin' (and displayin) a POINT.

Thanks, fellas.. Did anybody check the time on holster stitchin' from the video? One day I'll be big like Robert. Might help if I moved the mouth and hands at the same time! EDIT: Looks like about 9 minutes-ish if your gums are flappin!

If you're used to shopping at tandy, that tanner's bond contact cement is good stuff. Price-wise, I get tbe Barge cement, which is quite good. Basically like paying for 2 quarts and getting 2 quarts free (compared to quart price). But I mention the tanners bond because you mention a tandy product, and that is one I have personally used. Either one.. you won't pull it apart once it sets.

If you're using the machine like it should be used, I wouldn't worry about projects coming apart. I make belts (among other stuff). I stitch the edges. Strength isn't really an issue at all - more than one layer gets glued together with glue so strong the stitch is basically decorative (find me that guy says he can pull it apart before stitching). Don't throw out the awl and harness needles, though -- you may find there are projects requiring sewing which can't be stuck in the machine. And, sometimes, you may find that while your project "could" be done in the machine, the things you would need to do to get it there aren't worth the time. I mean, if you have 5 projects that would require different settings, you change the settings, stitch what you need to, then put the settings back. But, if you have ONE project that would require changes, perhaps you just saddle stitch that one? I have a couple of projects I make that simply aren't going to work in the machines. Perhaps in SOME machine, but not mine...

Thanks I'm guessing the jealousy runs deeper than we thought. I felt SO bad about not having a video that doesn't actually teach you ANYthing! Good news is, it's SHORT https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfWd1ODEiHA

Ahh. now it's wurkin'. Know what i did ta fix it? Me, neither

The official version looks like the .45 is 1/4" "taller" and has a grip .020" thicker -- but both of those likely due to ammo. Slide the same?