JLSleather

Camano -- I'd be interested in seein' that list o' "worthwhile" videos -- so much of utube is like wading through.. well... doesn't matter Still, if you've done some weeding,... And +2 on the Stohlman book (which is +1, plus I'll say it agin). Great, clear information in there which is very helpful for holster makin', even if you never make any of those exact holsters. Not sure the patterns are entirely dated, I still get asked about one of these every so often ... Recommendations don't come as easily at my place as some others, I think. Most of us could make a line drawing with a pencil since we were 3, and anybody can upload a video fast and free (and nearly every has!). Much like the MANY videos out there, the trick is to weed out the useful information. I saw half a dozen last night that came up along side something I was searching for. 10-12 minute videos of a piece of leather going around in a stitcher. Then another one with a different piece of leather doing the same thing... etc.... I was wondering if I got sidetracked onto some leather stitcher ads. Guy's name don't maybe matter, but what you end up with is a guy with 30 (ish) videos that don't actually teach anything ! You'd think I'd quit gittin sucked inta that! I say all that to say this: I do have some patterns available, and there will be considerably more if I ever get them in the computer! But more important than a drawing on the paper, is the principle behind where the lines are. Camano is correct - there is some useful info around here. As for a "class", I'd recommend looking for someone in your local area. And I mean someone who knows leather and knows WHY that holster is shaped like it is. By way of cheap intro (as in free) here's a little picture I send to pretty much everybody - including customers who have no intention of ever making their own holster. AboutHolsters.pdf

You missin' the point, Boss. We all seen videos that go on and on and get NOWHERE. You thought they would be worth checking, which is why we clicked in the first place! But it seemed like it was my turn to have a pointless video that doesn't actually show you! But, yeah, been meanin' to clean that up a bit. Apparently, u-tube (Google) ranks videos by the TIME that they are watched, which accounts for some of the people with half hour videos that drone on. But I personally give up -- I won't be uploadin' pics er vids without havin' (and displayin) a POINT.

Thanks, fellas.. Did anybody check the time on holster stitchin' from the video? One day I'll be big like Robert. Might help if I moved the mouth and hands at the same time! EDIT: Looks like about 9 minutes-ish if your gums are flappin!

If you're used to shopping at tandy, that tanner's bond contact cement is good stuff. Price-wise, I get tbe Barge cement, which is quite good. Basically like paying for 2 quarts and getting 2 quarts free (compared to quart price). But I mention the tanners bond because you mention a tandy product, and that is one I have personally used. Either one.. you won't pull it apart once it sets.

If you're using the machine like it should be used, I wouldn't worry about projects coming apart. I make belts (among other stuff). I stitch the edges. Strength isn't really an issue at all - more than one layer gets glued together with glue so strong the stitch is basically decorative (find me that guy says he can pull it apart before stitching). Don't throw out the awl and harness needles, though -- you may find there are projects requiring sewing which can't be stuck in the machine. And, sometimes, you may find that while your project "could" be done in the machine, the things you would need to do to get it there aren't worth the time. I mean, if you have 5 projects that would require different settings, you change the settings, stitch what you need to, then put the settings back. But, if you have ONE project that would require changes, perhaps you just saddle stitch that one? I have a couple of projects I make that simply aren't going to work in the machines. Perhaps in SOME machine, but not mine...

Thanks I'm guessing the jealousy runs deeper than we thought. I felt SO bad about not having a video that doesn't actually teach you ANYthing! Good news is, it's SHORT https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfWd1ODEiHA

Ahh. now it's wurkin'. Know what i did ta fix it? Me, neither

The official version looks like the .45 is 1/4" "taller" and has a grip .020" thicker -- but both of those likely due to ammo. Slide the same?

I sure thought I had a pattern for this, ... turns out I got the XD-40. Twice I'm not sure the difference - I could look it up maybe while I'm doing nothing? Or, perhaps I'll wait for Mike to show up and tell me the difference between the .40 and the .45 is "5" ... If you know the difference, maybe I kin help...

Wait.... what... ? The lock stitch does "make a u-turn" in the hole, and the saddle stitch 'makes a u-turn" on the surface of the leather (or in a groove), so in theory the saddle stitch would have a thread longer by the amount of the difference between the thickness of the leather and half the thickness of the leather twice for each stitch. Tha's hardta say 3 times fast, but I know what I meant Let's try that idea .... Say you stitch a 40" seam of 8 oz leather - just because it's even numbers. Oh, keep in mind it matters how many stitches, so lets say 6 per inch.Both threads start outside the leather. The lock stitch goes HALF WAY THROUGH the leather, AND BACK, so one thickness (1/2 in and 1/2 out). Thus, it 'travels' 1/8" (8 oz) plus 1/6" to get ready for the next stitch. That's about .292" each thread, so 2 threads is .584" per stitch. 40" times 6/inch = 240 stitches, so a total of about 140" of thread (6 feet twice). The saddle stitch goes THROUGH the leather, so one thickness. Thus it 'travels' 1/8" (8oz) plus 1/6" to get ready for the next stitch. That's about .292" each thread, so 2 threads is .584" per stitch. 40" times 6/inch = 240 stitches, so a total of about 140" of thread (6 feet twice). Crap.. wait.. did I do that right, or did I miss soemthing? It APPEARS that if the leather is the same, and the stitch length is the same, and the thread tension and/or stretch is the same, then the thread length would be the same. Yes? No?

Thanks. But my little thingy in the signature isn't "clicky"

Feelin' a bit neglected here ... SO many etsy shops by LW folks! So, now there's one fer me. I haven't had an 'actual' web site in years, though I'm told that's being re-done (the old one would not work today anyway). BUT, I hate to have etsy shoppers get the wrong idea about how leather should look. This should be enough to show the real 'web' guys what I want, too. Check it out at jlsleather.etsy.com

How thick is that elephant? Did you glue it to something else?

How thick is the cow? Above about 6 oz leather, I don't stick it to anything to tool - isn't necessary. But then, my leather has never been in the fridge, far as I can remember Minus the fancy speeches, leather should be cased if you're embossing up a good distance. For "flat" articles (tooled in only) you can wet and go. This simple design was done the other day in a few hours.... from cutting the strip off the hide to setting aside to dry (paint 'n' stitchin' extra)...

Seriously.. there's a knife sharpening CLASS? As a used-to-be toolmaker, I've sharpened a LOT of stuff, using things from sandpaper to surface grinders. But when it comes to leather, I need a blade that cuts smoothly without drag. But I can do that for what... $3 (ish)? When they're dull, I pitch 'em and replace 'em. I think I've sharpened enough My interest is the look and usefulness of the leather when I'm done carving. Not what name is on the side of the knife. Or the mallet. Or whatever. Guy tells that story... Fella is blowing insulation in the walls of his house, decides he needs a drill. Go to the store, and the guy tells him this drill is $19. Next one is layin' there, and the guy tells him this one is variable speed, and it's $29. A third model is variable speed AND reversible, and its $49. One has all that, and hammer drill function, and it's $129. So, the question was... which one does he need? Most people when asked that question say "the cheap drill". But what he actually needs is holes in the wall - which he could do with a hammer.

Neat idea -- and very nicely done. I don't speak a bit of Chinese, but was able to follow your instruction easily. NICE!

We didn't hear how that came out. I KNOW you have a G19 pattern You "could" use the G19 pattern to make a holster for the 27 with little modification, some of which was mentioned before. Just don't expect holsters with the 27 pattern to fit the 19 once it's formed with the 27 "dummy"!

For years, folks around leather wurkin' campfires have been goin' on about the need for a saddle stitch. Not to take anything from that -- it works great, simple to learn, and looks nice. 50 years (ish) ago, there was a book published about hand sewing leather. That book said that with a lockstitch, when the thread breaks the seam can unravel. And people have been parroting that ever since (you know the routine - having no knowledge won't keep people from talking). But the actual strength is in the leather and the thread. And a guy with an awl and harness needles can botch a stitch job as well as the guy with a machine Stab an awl at the wrong angle, or too close together, ... not good. You'll find there's a vast range of threads and needles, many of them will work with that machine. Not to bore you to no end, but keep in mind that a 24 needle (for example) that is not "A" needle .. that's a size, but you can get size 24 needles for your machine that result in a very different stitch. One buries deeper than the next. One leaves a very straight stitch line, where the next one gives an angled/offset stitch, etc. This could go on.. but seriously, machines stitch parachute harness, just for an idea of strength. But, test it yourself. Take two narrow strips. Leave a couple inches at the end NOT stitched, to get a grip on. Stitch the edges like a belt with your machine. Trim the end threads out of your way. Now --- grab those ends you left for grip, and pull it apart... Better yet. Take that same piece, with the edges stitched, and CUT the thread somewhere in the middle of the seam. Not the leather, just cut the thread. Now, pull or tug or twist the project, and let us know what you had to do to get that seam to start coming out ...

If you already have a drill press and a circle cutter, yes - you can use that. I wouldn't use a spade bit, but a hole cutter would be fine (moderately fine tooth and sharp)

Oh, and then there's Kevlar thread, which is exactly what you think it is. Zero stretch and a breaking strength about 2 1/2 times that of nylon or poly thread (for same diameter). Much more costly, and largely prohibitive for leather craft. If, on the other hand, you are sewing parachute harness ...

Note to self: The girl at W/C thinks size matters.

That tooling looks purdy consistent, and the stitchin' is nice too!

I haven't ordered W/C for quite a while. I thought about it a while back -- probably same reason as you -- some of the HO I've seen lately has been LESS THAN STELLAR quality. But, the W/C web site been non-functioning for a good while now, and I couldn't find the number. Oh, crap.. now that i think about it,. probly on the back of that sample thing that still hanging in the shop ...

Yikes. An 19 minute "airbrush" video, where the airbrush doesn't actually come out until about 14 minute mark? Maybe I clicked the wrong link ..

My fault, it seems. I told them they could have put those on Ebay and got a quick $600-$1000 for them. His wife said 'well you shoulda told us'. My opiinion, that would be tough to do since i didn't know they had them They're melted down somewhere by now ...