JLSleather

I wouldn't sell "out of " any store that wasn't mine. Between the shipping companies, the tax guys (plural), and the welfare recipients, there are more than enough people getting a 'cut' already.

Looks like maybe a little 'fuzzy' at the top (or just the pic?), but the color looks pretty good, stitches are consistent, slots aren't "wollered out' to no end (see a lot of that lately). Overall, I like it (though, I personally WOULD cut the bottom right off there )

For what it's worth, these are currently no up to about $20 each. Might be a chance for somebody to pick a REAL mean deal. I think i have most of these, or I'd buy it myself. http://www.ebay.com/itm/21-Blue-Guns-Great-for-Holster-Making-Glock-S-W-SIG-Springfield-Ruger-/141521679987?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20f3597673

You made the pattern for the 1911? You've made holsters for revolvers? Okay, now just put the two together You'll find that the "center line" on your 'avenger' revolver holster is so close to the front stitch line on a pancake that it's virtually the same thing. With the python, you have one of the few revolvers that this might vary a bit. But this is due to the "rib" down the barrel more than the cylinder. How long is the barrel on the Colt? How high will it ride? And how wide the belt it fits? Now that you've brought this up, I think I'll do one of these...

Not sure I understood your last post, but if you just want 'general' info and instruction - particularly for revolver holsters - you can download one of the classics from the library.. should show you all you need to know to get started https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1119-how-to-make-holsters-by-al-stohlman.aspx

You're probably going to need more information. The S/W 38 special was made in frame sizes M, I, J, K, L, and N and at least two others that I am aware of but not familiar with. Most of what we see these days are "K" or "L" frame models, but if you had a model number that would go a LONG way in narrowing it down. Are you looking for the model 10, 65, 586 ... ?

I have that one Troy That's the new replacement, close as I could see the one she had. Basically, the name was about all that was recognizable any more on the old one. Personally, I don't care for that stamped look, but that's what they had and what they wanted to replace with.

Well, don't know if it's THE one or not, but stick in something close-ish

There was a 'doodle page' looked JUST like this,.. where was that.. something from like 1986? Maybe '87... Can't read the publish date, maybe it's on the other side? https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-974-shade-dyeing-with-spectra-shade-dyes-by-glenda-karrenbrock-tony-laier-series-7d-page-8.aspx

Chubby girl makes these -- this one in 1.5 oz kidskin. One layer, except where the id window is on top, and where it's folded (folded edge is middle of wallet). Every pocket stitched in. Looks great, and keeps a wallet thin. Still, takes a LONG time, requires a pretty small needle (this one in a machine with a #16 needle and 8 spi). Unless you are making ONE every so often, probably cost effective to just call the gals at SLC and order the chaylor interior (stick it and go).

HO is going up a bit. 50¢ - ish.

It is possible that the glue has gone bad since 2012 when the original post was made. Other than that, I have used and do use tanner's bond. Ordinarily, I use Barge, but I was a bit low and near a Tandy one day, so I currently have some. Gluing lined belts with it all month -- no problems (other than the fact that the stuff really stinks).

Looks pretty solid.. nice stitchin' too.

that's what I was gonna suggest.. look for some obstruction in the shuttle area .. it grabs the thread, which then twists wrong (because .. duh.. reverse ) and then.. well .. you see

Nope, sure don't. But if the feet lift with the hand lever, then possibly your chain is binding somewhere.

As a rule, I like to use the smallest hole I can get away with. And I generally would use the 23 with 207 just like you said. Still, not all threads are the same, etc. Since that's such a simple fix, I'd start right there. I mean, if you get too big a hole, and the issue isn't fixed, it's simple to put the other needle back. And yes, 'low' meant the knots. If you've verified it's not the needle / thread size combination, and the thread pulls smoothly from the bobbin, THEN you can turn up the top tension a bit. You already know to make sure that there's nothing keeping the feet from coming all the way down (lever up, chain binding, etc). Point was, don't assume the worst.. it sometimes is pretty simple. I've ran the bobbin right out of thread.. top tension ALL out of whack when that happens.

That looks like a tight hole, at a glance. Always always always start with the simplest 'fix'. Not 'sucking the knot' enough means... 1.) Hole too small for the thread size 2.) Too much bobbin tension 3.) Insufficient top thread tension First check the obvious... 277 thread? Then we should have a 24 or 25 needle. Hole size, check. (For 277/207 combo I like the 24 needle, for 277/277, I use the 25). With a tension issue, don't auto assume you need to start compressing springs and moving dials. Is there something in the path of the thread binding or dragging (creating tension NOT related to a setting). Is the thread coming off the spool smoothly (this seems obvious, but really). Pull the bobbin thread with a thumb and finger.. can you pull thread smoothly? Is the bobbin in the machine so that thread spools off the bobbin the right direction? This seems like no big issue, but it really can make a difference. Your bottom stitches look fairly consistent. They're consistently too low, but consistent. Point is, if there was something binding the thread, usually there's a more erratic look to it. Probably not the issue here, but I'd still check that (takes seconds). How to fix this issue, this time -- first GUESS, I'd try one size larger needle.

The holster plate off the cobra 4 looks to have a hole spacing (measured in a straight line) of about 38 mm (center lines). This close on the artisan?

The foot pedal is SUPPOSED to drive those discs apart to allow you to pull thread. If it's hanging up, check where the lift chain goes through the casting to see if it's hanging up there. Probably a kick or wiggle of the pedal will free it up. Until you have that solved, the tension is NEVER going to be right. One thing from your pics.. is that thread routed correctly? On the first guide and tension disc set (where you labeled #1), mine would go through the pigtail (wire) around the tension discs, the BACK THROUGH the pigtail before going down towards the next section. Somebody with that machine chime in -- mine isn't the same and I don't want to have you changing what was already right! HAVING watched the video of Bob setting up a [very] similar machine, perhaps your thread path is correct. Maybe worth noting, looks like your lift chain is OUTSIDE the drive shaft, but Bob's is INSIDE - between the shaft and the casting. BOTH RIGHT?

My 206 (RB-5) stitches back very well - run in reverse all day in the same holes -- no issues. Not sure about yours, but on the -RB5 it's a simple adjustment if it ever went off. Only thing I didn't like about the machine was that you can't "lock" it in reverse (have to hold the lever down). Occasionally that could be a pain.

Oh, the others I was talking about CAME that way. Perhaps something could get knocked out during shipping, though you'd think if that was the case then SOMETHING would be said about what to do about that (if it were common). Don't believe it's a timing issue, though I suppose a timing problem could result in this.

You are #5 Michelle -- and thanks for your honesty. A 'fix" for this can be done in a few ways. Ideally, the people making them - OR the people shipping them - OR the people servicing them -- would set that before you get it. I haven't yet taken it apart to see how that adjustment is made, though I suspect it's set screws like about everything else on this thing. You are rotating a lever on a pivot point.. and basically the pivot is not the same angle in each direction. It looks like up and down, but looking down that machine it's more like rotating 2:30 to 3:30 (sorry, old machinist mind). Second, and certainly simplest.... One guy I talked with doesn't use reverse. He simply gets where he going, TURNS THE PROJECT AROUND, and goes forward in those same holes. He's had the machine a few years, and never checked that. His reasoning was, turning it around made it easier to see the work and where the needle was going. When he tried it, he found his didn't 'stitch back' either. Couple things about this.... 1.) Sometimes the simple answer is right in front of you 2.) You need a project that allows room to turn it around. And, if a guy wanted to 'adapt' this WITHOUT turning the work around and WITHOUT opening the machine... then you could get some shim stock in a brass or stainless (non-rust material) -- back off the screws holding that plate behind the stitch adjustment lever -- and shim one end or the other until they actually do match.

Okay, just a bit further. I'm not sure what "video" we're talking about here -- that Al video above? He goes back what.. 2 stitches? 3? If you do the simple test I describe above, you'll see that this is a ratio (which, makes sense). The longer the stitch length, the more the ratio is thrown off when putting in reverse.. And the further you go, the farther it will be off (incremental error). And yes, I do have one of these. And yes, I do use it. I'm simply not ignorant of its limitations, nor do I tell people it does what it doesn't do. But, I have commented in another thread (not mine originally) about the accessories sold with these. Holster plate, stirrup plate, slotted plate, blanket thingy.. Is there no manual or video showing the use and purpose of these? Seriously, there are people I swear posted pics and vids of EVERY project they ever made.... but no cobra accessories... Personally, I get by just fine. I'm wondering if there's a video with some TRUE information that I can point to when OTHERS ask.