JLSleather

As a rule, I like to use the smallest hole I can get away with. And I generally would use the 23 with 207 just like you said. Still, not all threads are the same, etc. Since that's such a simple fix, I'd start right there. I mean, if you get too big a hole, and the issue isn't fixed, it's simple to put the other needle back. And yes, 'low' meant the knots. If you've verified it's not the needle / thread size combination, and the thread pulls smoothly from the bobbin, THEN you can turn up the top tension a bit. You already know to make sure that there's nothing keeping the feet from coming all the way down (lever up, chain binding, etc). Point was, don't assume the worst.. it sometimes is pretty simple. I've ran the bobbin right out of thread.. top tension ALL out of whack when that happens.

That looks like a tight hole, at a glance. Always always always start with the simplest 'fix'. Not 'sucking the knot' enough means... 1.) Hole too small for the thread size 2.) Too much bobbin tension 3.) Insufficient top thread tension First check the obvious... 277 thread? Then we should have a 24 or 25 needle. Hole size, check. (For 277/207 combo I like the 24 needle, for 277/277, I use the 25). With a tension issue, don't auto assume you need to start compressing springs and moving dials. Is there something in the path of the thread binding or dragging (creating tension NOT related to a setting). Is the thread coming off the spool smoothly (this seems obvious, but really). Pull the bobbin thread with a thumb and finger.. can you pull thread smoothly? Is the bobbin in the machine so that thread spools off the bobbin the right direction? This seems like no big issue, but it really can make a difference. Your bottom stitches look fairly consistent. They're consistently too low, but consistent. Point is, if there was something binding the thread, usually there's a more erratic look to it. Probably not the issue here, but I'd still check that (takes seconds). How to fix this issue, this time -- first GUESS, I'd try one size larger needle.

The holster plate off the cobra 4 looks to have a hole spacing (measured in a straight line) of about 38 mm (center lines). This close on the artisan?

The foot pedal is SUPPOSED to drive those discs apart to allow you to pull thread. If it's hanging up, check where the lift chain goes through the casting to see if it's hanging up there. Probably a kick or wiggle of the pedal will free it up. Until you have that solved, the tension is NEVER going to be right. One thing from your pics.. is that thread routed correctly? On the first guide and tension disc set (where you labeled #1), mine would go through the pigtail (wire) around the tension discs, the BACK THROUGH the pigtail before going down towards the next section. Somebody with that machine chime in -- mine isn't the same and I don't want to have you changing what was already right! HAVING watched the video of Bob setting up a [very] similar machine, perhaps your thread path is correct. Maybe worth noting, looks like your lift chain is OUTSIDE the drive shaft, but Bob's is INSIDE - between the shaft and the casting. BOTH RIGHT?

My 206 (RB-5) stitches back very well - run in reverse all day in the same holes -- no issues. Not sure about yours, but on the -RB5 it's a simple adjustment if it ever went off. Only thing I didn't like about the machine was that you can't "lock" it in reverse (have to hold the lever down). Occasionally that could be a pain.

Oh, the others I was talking about CAME that way. Perhaps something could get knocked out during shipping, though you'd think if that was the case then SOMETHING would be said about what to do about that (if it were common). Don't believe it's a timing issue, though I suppose a timing problem could result in this.

You are #5 Michelle -- and thanks for your honesty. A 'fix" for this can be done in a few ways. Ideally, the people making them - OR the people shipping them - OR the people servicing them -- would set that before you get it. I haven't yet taken it apart to see how that adjustment is made, though I suspect it's set screws like about everything else on this thing. You are rotating a lever on a pivot point.. and basically the pivot is not the same angle in each direction. It looks like up and down, but looking down that machine it's more like rotating 2:30 to 3:30 (sorry, old machinist mind). Second, and certainly simplest.... One guy I talked with doesn't use reverse. He simply gets where he going, TURNS THE PROJECT AROUND, and goes forward in those same holes. He's had the machine a few years, and never checked that. His reasoning was, turning it around made it easier to see the work and where the needle was going. When he tried it, he found his didn't 'stitch back' either. Couple things about this.... 1.) Sometimes the simple answer is right in front of you 2.) You need a project that allows room to turn it around. And, if a guy wanted to 'adapt' this WITHOUT turning the work around and WITHOUT opening the machine... then you could get some shim stock in a brass or stainless (non-rust material) -- back off the screws holding that plate behind the stitch adjustment lever -- and shim one end or the other until they actually do match.

Okay, just a bit further. I'm not sure what "video" we're talking about here -- that Al video above? He goes back what.. 2 stitches? 3? If you do the simple test I describe above, you'll see that this is a ratio (which, makes sense). The longer the stitch length, the more the ratio is thrown off when putting in reverse.. And the further you go, the farther it will be off (incremental error). And yes, I do have one of these. And yes, I do use it. I'm simply not ignorant of its limitations, nor do I tell people it does what it doesn't do. But, I have commented in another thread (not mine originally) about the accessories sold with these. Holster plate, stirrup plate, slotted plate, blanket thingy.. Is there no manual or video showing the use and purpose of these? Seriously, there are people I swear posted pics and vids of EVERY project they ever made.... but no cobra accessories... Personally, I get by just fine. I'm wondering if there's a video with some TRUE information that I can point to when OTHERS ask.

No, I don't need a picture If yours stitches back in the same holes as it arrived, you are the exception. On a number of machines now, someone (not always me) has put the thing in forward, stitch a line. Then move over, put in reverse, stitch another line parallel. Stitch length clearly NOT the same. So, while it CAN be made to fall back in those holes, you can't simply put it in reverse and assume that it will (though they could be adjusted to - and in fact, SHOULD have been but weren't).

Imagine that .. out of curiosity, I'm searching - and found this slightly older thread about.. well ... thread STILL no info about using these swap-able "plates"? Holster plate, stirrup plate, ... and I still have yet to have someone SHOW me the Cobra 4 "stitching back in the same holes". Yeah, that's in quotes because everyone SAYS it - not so many DOING it. I've seen THREE of these machines that defiinitely do NOT stitch back in the same holes, and have had one man admit that his doesn't either. Anybody? Hmm?

Yikes. I've seen a dozen different 'answers' to this question .. some of them making less sense.. down to basically no sense at all. The buckle MATTERS, and needs to be included in the size. The only time this doesn't matter, is if the customer has their own buckle and wants to re-use it on a new belt. This is WAY too simple to have all the confusion you see all over the web. NOT that difficult.

You get in the Fort Dodge area, gimme a holler -- you can see and test mine -- sort of a try before you buy

I like the styling. Only thing is that 'stuff' -- is that an antique finish? Looks like something got left behind, the uncarved portion of the bag looks .. cleaner maybe. It looks like it's something you used on the carving. None on the flower petals, though - weird. Still, even with that it's a nice looking bag. A bit of smoothing on the shaded areas and without the paste (or whatever it is) this would be STUNNING. I'm not trying to sound negative .. I'm talking about turning a 7 into a 10!

Show us how nicely it stitches back in the same holes

You came out of it well

Yikes. Parallel lines everywhere .. contrasting colors .... concentric circles ... small (and on a curve) text... I'm thinking two tries aint bad Nice work.. hope you got paid for that!

Wiz said it's likely due to the black thread being stiff (with dye). Coils tried to stay coiled when it came off the spool. He was right.

Until not so long ago, I had a -RB5. Good solid machine, lays a nice stitch. My only problem with it, and what could end up being yours, is that it's a flat bed machine. I used thread on it from 42 to 207, but purse gussets sometimes just weren't going to happen on the flatbed. Some designs just much easier on a cylinder machine... Still, that thing worked with basically no issues (well, there was that one spool of black thread it didn't like, but that turned out to be that thread). Rather kickin' myself for letting it go, but I don't have room for one of everything ...

Glad I could help

Hmmm.. that was unnecessarily rude. What, my turn? Alrightey, then... I find it strange that someone with a symbol and an avatar from a movie worries about someone else copying / using their work. Nobody else sees irony? It is to me ridiculous that the only thing "kustom" about someone's work is the "maker" stamp (and otherwise about like many others). Each his own, I suppose. And perhaps I didn't phrase my post for others (I like to read my own posts, it's true). In case you missed it, I was AGREEING with you, that it's up to him if he puts a mark on there or not. In fact, now that we're peeing all over the posts, a guy could do that too -- go on pee on the leather before shipping it.. no difference to me, since I'm not the customer. But, though the path to it is wide, your conclusion is correct. I should get back to leather work.

There ya go. I don't even HAVE a "maker mark". Leave that to smaller men But, I think I "believe in myself". In fact, someone wants to re-sell my work, makes no difference to me. When the customer wants another one, let's see them duplicate it. Having a "brand" is for marketing people... not necessarily leather people. Lemme see.. some "brands" that made REAL money... Pet rocks Chia Pets Spongebob Enough, or we need more? Seriously, I've seen people (not just a few) who couldn't tool a piece of leather if you had a gun to their head. They can't (or won't - who knows) paint to save their life. But they have a 'maker mark" and a facebook page to tell you all about how talented they are.... long as they're telling the story it prolly works out fine.

Interesting question. Over at the blue gun store (one of them anyway) the pic shows the safety DOWN. On my model, the safety is UP. I don't know the reason for the difference. But, I know i had to CHECK mine, because i never actually gave it a thought. What are you molding that high on the weapon where that actually makes any difference?

Okay, one more then I don't oil formed holsters. I do oil tooled rigs - and pretty much everything else. Keep in mind then when I oil, it's almost like hold a bottle of oil in one hand, and TALK ABOUT oiling -- almost that lightly. I don't 'soak' anything.

OHHHHHHHHHHH! You meant BRIDLE (not bridal). When I saw guns n bridal, I thought we were getting a new version of "shotgun wedding" Still, the leather looks clean an purdy .. nicely done!