JLSleather

Thanks, Colt.. tha'sa old Stohlman design from Belts Galore - just stretched to 1 7/8" belt (1 1/2" billets) and the background reduced a bit. Fella wrote and specifically asked for THAT pattern.

Well, I thought it was okay to accept the check, but you're too generous (but thanks anyway).

BS - Don't think I'm gonna argue this one, since I'm agreeing with you (again). If I had cause to cut 16 of something that need to match, and next month cut 16 more, etc. I'd likely order the die. And I don't make "rosettes" ... the person looking for me to cut ONE of those out is waitin' for a REALLY cold day I like steak, but even more I like doing what I want, when I want to. Just yesterday I had a guy get a bit "uppity" about the scheduling on his carved belt, so I cut it in half and gave him the pieces. Who knows, might work for two carved dog collars? I don't have time for people who get the idea i work for them. Oh, I thought that was a 'nub' You answered your own question, really. Firm leather will eliminate most of that, and a SHARP blade takes care of the rest. I used to sharpen stuff (including dies), but time-wise I find it expedient to pitch a blade, pop in a new one, and go. As far as the initial thing goes about dies, I've designed a good few in my day. You may have seen some of the results of my younger days work if you have appliances that say "Electrolux", or farm equipment that says "Sudenga", or ever seen the handicapped vehicles made by Ranger (the electric ones).

Not sure what a "lip" is, but the sqare and rectangular little thingies can be cut with a strap cutter. Put a straight edge on the hide - full length. Strip entire hide (or majority of it) at 3.375" wide. Take the strips - and a 25¢ utility knife blade - and slice them at 90° at 9.25". You could use a square, but I just use a small template the right length. Longest part of the operation is checkin the hide for the 'good' spot to make the straight edge. I usually buy backs, which already have the straight edge whree the belly used to be. But when I get sides, I hack the entire belly, which becomes then belt LINING (no carving, and gluin n stitchin' minimizes stretch). OH. almost forgot... For large radii (radiuses?) I use a pointed x-acto knife, turns jus fine. For tighter curves, I use a punch in the inside turns, then cut from the circle hole.

That's not the opposite of what i said .. that's exactly what I said Only exception to that around here would be men's wallets, and I cut them by hand so fast you'd think I was automated A side turns into 70 (ish) of 'em so fast the dust can't settle on the hide.

A quick "google" for clicker dies leather" will get you a good list. I personally don't use 'em, cuz 1.) I'm very tight. Even I don't like to hang around with me when the bill comes. 2.) For small items, I can quickly use a combination of punches and knives to chop out what I need, which is often 1-of or 3-of a kind. 3.) For larger items, they arent production runs, eliminating the common sense in building a die. When reading this post, keep in mind .. 1.) A paid ad (anywhere) does not make any one company better or worse than another. 2.) I was a tool n die maker for a good while -- I do understand dies and the reasoning behind them. 3.) It seems most of the makers charge by the linear inch (usually meaning perimeter), adding for punches. When ordering, keep in mind .. 1.) A round punch doesn't care which way it's turned, but an oval or slot punch needs something to keep it from rotating (indexing). 2.) It should be a simple matter to include "dead" punches or the equivalent. Meaning, say a fella had a die to cut the end of a belt, punch the buckle end holes all in one shot. This could save time / money - but much advantage gained by having two "punches" that dont punch, but are outside the cutting area (locates the edge of the belt for alignment). There's more, but this is a start. Personally, I'd send a CAD file, so there's no room for misunderstanding what I wanted. The down side of that is, if the file is wrong, only yourself to blame if the die is wrong

Thanks, Bill

And, crocodile actually, not 'gatah

Well, fair enough. Sometimes, I prefer to go back to some of the old 'vintage' patterns - I do love those oldies.

Just a simple Glock holder. Any guesses what's wrong with the top grain?

Yep, fer a second holster, I'd say that's lookin purdy

Wish I could take credit for some of that! The bag design is from before I was born (ish). The The rose design is from Stohlman's "Inverted Carving" book, the paint is hers, and... wait ... I DID do the stitchin' an' the lacin' Oh, and those white specs on the bag (inside) apparently came from standing that box behind it for the picture (that window is HUGE). Blow lightly in the right direction and it came right off (crap, didn't see that til after I took the pic). I made a bag like this a few years ago. I think she did this just to hear me say it's better. Well, I ainta gonna do it

8/9 sides are $9.49 at Springfield Leather ($8.99 wholesale), Goliger Leather has it in "A" and "B" grade. can't find my latest price list, but it's around $8.50 for the "A" in full sides Maverick carries HO at $205 per side, but someone I know said that's "tannery run" grade (which is NOT the 'high' end)

Or, roses with chubby girls, or sumthin like that. Anyway, this is done with Fiebings spriit dyes, and no tools. Well, there's a utility knife, a lacin' needle, and a airbrush ....

A LITTLE pricey @^%$!&(#$%@!#$ Yikes, that's like $12-13 per foot (depending on the size of the side). That better be some seriously purdy leather We thought SLC was high at $9.50 / ft - considering that HO is about $7.50 / ft from the tannery (and thats "A" grade). Nice markup .. . $50 per side. $50 is nuthin', unless you're selling 500 a day!

Form, stitch, dye. Stitch, form, dye. Dye, stitch, form. I've seen some good lookin holsters made with each of the 'processes' there, and prolly some others. White thread in black holster ... yer prolly gonna hafta dye that FIRST (or, you could buy leather already black). Eco-flo stuff is not good for --- well, actually, really not good for anything.

Welcome. And thanks. Not always nice work, though.. tonight I found a bottle of 'coffee' Angelus dye SO old it had chunks, most of which I managed to get on my fingers

Yeah, I got a bunch of card stock, bristol, masking tape, and I think some peanut butter -- all of which needs to go in the computer to clean up around here a bit. You know, all that stuff you don't use very often but don't really wanna throw out. Speaking of that, did I mention I'm married I got a better pic somewhere, but this might work fer now ... gonna end up lookin a bit like this one (only with better color, and might mention that this is the glock 19, nearly the same animal) ... Workin' on gittin that rig in the first post in the machine, too ... after I git done hagglin with the concrete driveway guy, the hail storm insurance adjuster, and the hard-body girl at the gym ...

yep, one needle. only thing to watch is you notice they came up on teh same side of the hole every time. doesn't matter which side, long as they're consistent. and at teh end, we usedta go in the last hole, back up through the second to the last, and instead of all the way out the front, you come out between the layers and cut it off. here, looks like they jus wrapped it.

. if google don't find it.. still run a thread from between layers in second hole to back side. go through first hole from back to front; go through 3rd hole front to back; through second hole back to front; rinse & repeat.

Looks like what the old foks usedta call a rope braid, or a backstitch. Front comes over two holes, back goes back one, etc ...

That guy has a used artisan for sale, reasonable price too. That guy over there... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=57421&hl=

Glad I could help - welcome.

No, I haven't tanned any snakes. But, I don't like snakeskin anyway ... it has to be done up with some type of top coating, or the scales like to flake ...

Just one guy's opinion -- I don't think the channel needs to - or even should - go all the way the length of the holster. For formed channels, you might consider the distance from the top of your holster to the stitch line under the trigger guard. In English, that means that when the trigger guard clears the rig, you lose pressure (hopefully) and the front sight can clear itself inside the holster. If you're talking about the leather not hitting the SIDE of the pistol, that's where the forming comes in