JLSleather

The re-designed Glock 17 avenger style holster. Weekend project?

You don't list a location. Anyway, certainly Springfield (SLC) is pretty good at cutting you a small(ish) piece - you don't need to buy the cow Price-wise, I don't think there are any 'breaks'. Hermann Oak leather is usually pretty good quality for carving and forming. Most of my carved wallets are from Tandy's "Royal Meadow" 3/4 oz. I don't buy much else there, but at about $8/ft it carves nicely and I like the pale color (the lightest HO is 3 shades darker than this stuff). You're right about the pic spits - not great. Still, it does get used, and most of those "kits" include that same stuff. Not much strain on wallet guts, so if you're lacing edges it might be okay. Doesn't burnish, though, so stitched edges would look rough.

And brass. And stainless steel.

If you aren't sure what it is, I'd just send it back. For the money a guy pays for HO, shouldn'a outta be no 'streaks'.

Thanks, folks. Just my OCD catchin' upta me again. Just for folks who didn't already know, the Colts are just BARELY larger than the Smith L-frames (not sure why, but sometimes folks act like that's some kind of dramatic trade secret). So, I don't have a Trooper, but make the holster to fit the python, and the 686 will fit so close nobody will care.

Is that a 'snap-on', as in snap it on your belt without taking off the belt? Suueee weeeett .....

Veggie leather is stored flat, grain side down, stacked according to weight. Stacked together keeps a more consistent moisture and takes less space, grain down prevents scratches / suntans. Chrome leathers are hung over large dowels (think 7' wide towel rack with 5 'levels') suspended from the ceiling. Lets me pick the weight and color I want easily. Scrap.. is just that -- scrap. Short straps go in that drawer in my carving bench for testing colors / setting sewing machine tension / backing hole punches. If the drawer has a good bit in there, or if the pieces we're talking about are smaller than my hand .. trash can. I'm personally too lazy to do it, but i knew a guy back when, hung the veggie leather with a couple of bungies and those little clamps you can get for holding a tarp. Worked, but I don't really wanna keep pulling it up and down ...

I'm always tooling something. This time, just wanted to show 'junior' how these things go together - get the kid in on it. Couple little things I think I'll alter in the pattern. Still, it's a usable rig

Just my opinion, it looks like that's enough holes to weaken it along the stitch line. Maybe just the picture, but doesn't look like much "meat" left between the holes. Perhaps a smaller needle, or if you can't do that, then perhaps just a bit less stitches per inch. Not sure how your machine adjusts - stitches per inch or distance between stitches. Colt -- agreed! Holsters, not too bad. The gunbelt can get to be a chore

Yep, educated guess says that was designed for the 27 - agreed. But, as that chubby girl says -- a 5-gallon pail will hold your pistol, but that doesnt mean it FITS. Red .. wasn't the 57 a .41 cal?

Etsy is a strange place. I did a search earlier today and found a couple of people selling very basic, very simple projects that cost $3 to make for $50 range. And selling HUNDREDS of them. You couldn't GIVE me one of those things (thank you anyway). And right next to their listings, someone else with the SAME item, in the same (pathetic) color, done the same way -- none sold. No accounting for it that I can see, but then - not really my concern. Make what you like to make. Try to keep in mind that over there, you're dealing with people who are often shopping for cheap plastic jewelery. It's almost nonsensical to even list anything leather over there (though I know a chubby girl who does).

Actually, I have a piece of plywood I've been meaning to put some brad nails in to hang these things. Meaning to - as in haven't as yet I got some on the bottom shelf, which is officially where they would "belong". And some on the dye / finish shelf because they needed to move for a minute when I wanted to cut up that side. And a few on the desk because I've been re-working some patterns. And two on the table next to the bench, since those patterns have been re-worked and I want to test them in cut leather (theoretically soon-ish). Yeah, it's that bad.

That's a tough one to call. The frame size is close, and they're both .357M, with the underlug. Problem is, different makers will uses different 'fits'. With "mass produced" holsters, often made with a loose (ish) fit, so they can be used with more models. Bianchi used to make a leather holster that was stamped on teh back for S/W "K" models and Colt "I" models, which I assure you are NOT the same. Where did you get the pattern for the 686? It's like this... You and I both make a holster from that pattern. You are in the habit of stitchin' 1/8" in from the edge, and only up the edge. Your 686 drops in. But I do mine stiched 3/16" in from that edge, and I stitch the top (mouth), preventing stretch. That 686 will go, but not a 'drop in', and perhaps the Ruger doesn't go at all (I've never held a GP100, so I'm taking Jeff's word at this point that the ruger may be a bit larger). One point to make that may help with this. There is ALWAYS somebody recommending Stohlman's "how to make holsters" book (including me). In that book, there is a pattern for a carved western style holster for a ".357 magnum Smith & Wesson". I've made that holster, and I can tell you it fits the 686 nicely. But, when that book came out, the 686 didn't exist yet. You'll see this a LOT .. people advertising holsters for a ".357" or "fits a S/W .38" which - of course - means nothing if you have any idea how many models that covers. BEST thing, if you don't have the guns or dummies, maybe measure the thing with a caliper. If they measure the same, then they'll work the same. Perhaps Rob over at blueguns.com can tell you, or if you have one someone could probably give you specs on the other.

Your machine will sew 1/4" thick material fairly easily, though I wouldn't put it through much heavier than that. Pretty sure you can go up to #23 needle and 207 thread.

PURdy Did you dye those edges at all, or just burnished? Either way, this is a good-lookin piece o' cow!

There are a lot more people making holsters these days than there was even a couple of years ago. You can watch them line up. You'll have a few loyal people who will likely want to come back to you when they need another rig. And some will buy it because they don't see a reason not to buy that one, and hate to shop, thus they buy the one they're looking at right then. But as a rule, something should make it stand out. If we all get some HO leather, dip it, and stitch it with 277 thread, then there's nothing there the next 100 guys can't do just as well. What's the difference? It becomes then, largely a price war. Oh, and can't forget the occasional fool (as in "fool and his money") who buys occasionally because they want to buy something - does't really matter what it is. But, that's hardly consi

For the barrette and bracelet type thing, I don't know why that should be a problem. I buy backs in the heavier weights, because I don't have much use for small pieces of anything over about 6 oz leather. But, I do buy sides in 3/4 (and occasionally 2/3), as I can use the lighter leathers pretty much. Bellies certainly have more stretch than the higher portions of the hide. Still, this leather is fine for items that aren't extensively tooled, and don't receive a lot of stress. Doing the math, in US dollars, a 25' side at $7.15 is $180. The back from the same hide is $150-ish, assuming the back is about 18 feet. So, that belly is costing you $30 (or, about 4.50/ft). So, if you have use for it, might as well take it. Any lining that is glued in, it's fine. It makes a nice piece to set stitching machine tensions. Test your dye color before throwing it on the 'real' project. Even after using bellies for all that, I still have a box of "scrap" that never goes empty. But, it's cheap, so ...

We usedta call the longer ones "bar snaps" and the shorties were "jiffy snaps". Comes with both parts.

That's actually broken down further than I'm willing to go. With belt leather, I'll take a bend, that I figure costs me about $125. Measurin' across the bend, forget the length (which is likely in the 55-65" range) I measure (example) 25". So, that chunk costs $5 per inch of width. These numbers are picked for easy math, but they're reasonably close. SO THEN: A 1.5" wide belt costs $7.50 of the belt bend. Since it's probably lined, and the veg tanned lining costs about the same, then the veg leather total is $15.] Dye, glue, and snaps MIGHT be a whole $1. Truth is, changing the needle for stitching costs about as much as all of that together so I don't even calculate it. 15 mins in the stitcher. I'll saddle stitch it if requested, but otherwise I'm zippin' it through. Add the thread, and a new needle, so another $1 (which is generous). Oil and finish, because some OCD char will insist this costs money ... $1 (which is EXTREME). Total cost, 1.5" lined belt $18.00

Tough to note the burnishing with a single stamp on dark leather, but ya gotta admit that's a nice crisp impression!

Oh, and don't go out without mentioning the "hagglers". Well , you have this price listed, but I'll give you $________ Seriously, do I look like I need lunch money?

I note a lot of people seem to have difficulty determining what their actual cost is. Personally, I question the original posts 'guestimate'. $100 for the leather? At $10/ft (which should get some VERY nice leather) that's 10 feet. For a pan seat? Well, enough ... Chief is onto something. As the saying goes, "fair market value is what you can get". If the customer is willing to pay it, then that's the price. Personally, I look for quality materials crafted with actual talent. If you're not selling those, then no amount of speeches about how many hours you put in will 'rescue' your sale. Bottom line, if you purchased the materials, they are then YOURS to do with as you see fit. I once sold a belt for $300 to a guy who was tickled pink. Next guy said he would NEVER pay that for a belt. I asked what he would pay, and he said maybe half that. Other "crafter" (I never did think much of his work) said 'you can't do that'. So I sold a belt for $8, just to show that I CAN do that. Rather like the commercial -- crunch all you want, I'll make more

I have the VL too. Well, several of them actually (too lazy to switch tips back and forth). I think sometimes I'll try another model, but not until these are worn out. Darned things just won't STOP! Pretty much indestructible. Been meaning to try spraying finishes with it for years, but still haven't actually done it. Still, they spray spirit dyes jus' fine. Larger bag painted with VL#3, smaller clutch with VL#1.

Works jus fine that way

You're limited on the colors, but if your project is going to be one solid color, and that color is available - then why not use it. Saves time AND labor, so cost difference should be made up just on that. Long as you're getting leather that works. Personally, I don't like to store more than I need to, so I'd have to have an order for a BUNCH of items in that color to make it worth my time (and money). Having said that, I don''t use much (rarely, though I do get some). I don't make much that is one solid color.