JLSleather

They changed the snaps - and the setter - a good while back, and didn't do it very well. Basically, the tip that goes INTO the female (cap) end is too big (around). The bigger diameter 'blows out' the cap, so it won't stay seated. Went through this with a Tandy manager a while back. Since the snaps changed, my setter wouldn't work. Guy says you need the NEW setter. So I bought the new set - which still didn't work. Finally I went to the store, got a pack of snaps and a setter off the shelf, paid for both, and then told him to show me how that works and handed him the BRAND NEW snaps and setter - which didn't work. Fortunately, I had an old setter that worked. BUT, I order snaps somewhere else usually, and they are NOT the same. Yeah, I know .. .it get's weird. SO THEN -- try taking some sand paper or other coarse stuff to the setter that goes in the cap. If you have a lathe or drill press to stick it in and spin it, that would be faster. Sneak it down a bit and test every so often until you get the fit you want. BAD NEWS THEN, with Tandy, be prepared to have your NEXT batch of snaps be too tight, because you altered the setter and the snaps arent the same as the last batch!

Great - you had to point out that Farah's gone. How will I get any work done .. every time I walk in the shop I'm gonna NOT see Farah ....

Yep, guess I'll give 'em a call. I thought about it before, but didn't "go" on it because I couldn't order with a card on the phone. Might just have to look up a youtube video or something to remind me how to write an actual check! Thanks, fellas!

Anybody TOOLing this leather from RJF? The last piece of HO I bought wouldn't even dye evenly - even submersing it in oil dyes - uneven penetration. Solid color and / or formed holsters are nice, too, but I'd like to hear that someone tried the tooling leather.

Nice color - I like that one. On this one, you're talking about gaining the thickness in trade for the width. Got it. Tough to tell from that angle, but it looks like you've added a welt nearly the length of the seam. Was it too tight without the full-length filler? I mean, could you have got away with a filler from the trigger guard - say - half way down, tapering to nothing? Or, what of the person who wants the trigger covered? Would you still use a filler, or just come back that half inch (or likely a bit more) to let the trigger fall into the leather?

You're certainly well organized, but I had that picture of Farah when it was NEW

I've made some holsters, but i wasn't born yet in '58 Confusing a bit with all the numbers, which supposedly are 'sizes'. The S/W "I" frame nowhere near the same as the Colt "I" frame (which used to be the "E" frame) .... Bad enough they can't get the numbers together one manufacturer to the next .. but to confound the thing they changed designations within the same brand. Likely the work of some marketing monkeys (and perhaps also their boyfriends)...

One of the patterns I was talking about is in that stohlman book - p 23. That sucker has some ROOM in there. Actually, I was thinking that's a J-frame, but on closer search, S/W had a K frame 38 M&P about that era, which would account realistically for the size of the holster. Yep, thinkin' tha's a K FRAME holster.

IN a couple of printed (vintage) designs, the patterns for the J-frame revolver (and Stohlman's 'single six') state that 'fillers are recommended" for 'this type' of holster. Anybody adding these in? That's crossed my mind off n on for quite a while, finally just decided to make a couple and play with that. The J-frame is small, so not sure where you would need fillers. I tried a couple ways, none of them seemed to aid the fit of the gun. Anybody else?

So - I never have seen a legitimate answer - just what is the difference over there at HO between "strap", "tooling", and "holster"? Same weights, same pricing, same minimum order ...

Not happenin' this week, Robert. I'm about - what - 1000 or so miles out .... And, wife just called -- sittin' by the road with a flat tire. My truck, of course

Yes. But if you have to store and stock 5000 items, then that charge would realistically be applied to ALL of those items - 1/5000 of the cost on each - not the entire amount on EACH item. And speaking of volume business, they get a BETTER shipping rate than many of us. So, if I can ship that for $3.50, why would I pay them $13? OF COURSE they aren't talking about it. That would be like screaming a warning to someone you're trying to sneak up on Seriously, if I give that girl that answers my phone $10/hour .... do I then charge each person who calls $10? If all that was going on was people "covering their costs" not many would take issue with it. I sure hope they don't cut their throat by trying to tell me that the $12.99 shipping is justified. Because they got away with it (I LET them) doesn't mean it's right, or even okay. Shipping on that is $2.68 (usps). The envelope COULD be a dollar, if you were buying ONE in a retail store. That's about $10 short ...

I would have done the math the other way around. If someone is shipping 625 packages (middle of the estimated), and gets $20/hour (I won't debate it - just going with what was stated), and works at it (to be generous) 10 hours a day... That's $200 / day in 'shipping labor'. That's an added cost (average) of $200/625 = 32¢ per package (your numbers, not mine). Shipping charges + cost of box + cost of packing / tape / etc. + labor cost = actual cost. Anything above that is profit, and I don't know why someone would dispute that. Profit is DEFINED as $$ received less cost of goods (really, ask the IRS). I just ordered those old patterns from Tandy, they're on closeout. Don't know if I'll ever use 'em, but whatever. Shipping was $12.99, which i found EXTREME for a few packets that will TOTAL about the size of a spiral notebook. I had to force myself not to cancel the (online) order just for principle, since I know that package is going to cost about $3 to ship up here. This kind of thing causes me to limit the times I would order from them. And if they 'stood up' and so staunchly defended their "right" to gouge me with the shipping, I wouldn't buy from them at all. In the end, if you're okay with the total amount for what you're buying (price + shipping) then there shouldn't be a problem. OH, I should add -- I don't pay "extra" for insurance on my packages. The SHIPPER is responsible for insuring the package. This is a standard SCAM by sellers. Seriously, if a package is lost or damaged, that's THE SHIPPER'S responsiblilty. If I don't get what I paid for, I'd just have my credit card company reverse the charges. Anybody wondering about this issue .. here's the ENGLISH version. You are entitled by law to either your PURCHASED ITEM or your MONEY. You do not forfeit either one by not purchasing "insurance" (again, that's a HUSTLE intended for anyone who can be sucked in by it)

I just now ordered one of these myself. The "old version" is pretty worn down, and I've been talking about making something new for a LONG time. Maybe just time to admit that I'm never going to get around to that, and buy one! I saw your post, and went and clicked. So, on your next order, tell them they owe you a referral fee

Yeah, Tandy has sold that stuff for years (and years). It's cheap because it's split leather (they already sold the top part at top price, so this is "gravy"). SLC uses it in their pre-fab wallet linings (the ones they make themselves). I personally dont' like it for that .. too thick and too rigid (doesn't like sharp bends). But, I have been known to use it for glued-in linings like the inside of a notebook, or small flat cases that I want to be able to wipe off if needed.

This was done with a waxy stencil paper, should be able to find online or in any hobby store. No sticky. No liquid. No bleed. Just have to use a VERY sharp knife to cut the shapes (burrs = bleed).

As Kate points out in that other thread, the liquid can actually leave a residue on the leather. Depending on the tannage, the amount and length of time, this can also cause permanent discoloration (defeating the purpose of the mask). We use some mylar stencils, though if we stencil we generally cut our own. Bristol board works about as well as anything - available in about any print shop for pennies (or pence, or quid...). No adhesive at all as a rule ...and your single-action airbrush is not the problem. I've seen some STUNNING art done with single-action brushes. The pressure will depend on the dye you're using and the brush you have. My Paasche sprays Fiebing's dyes at anywhere 15 - 35 psi, depending on the look I want. Normally around 20.

Looks like you got it right ... tooled leather, linin', stitchin', buckle set (layed out to not mar the instrument), and happy young-un. Nice!

Done. Still have our email?

Nice shading. Black plus ANYthing can be tough!

Those actually look pretty good for the 'new guy' More important, you're already picking up on how adjustments are made and what your own preferences are. For the awl, keep it in line with the groove. There will always be SOME angle that doesn't like it, but this will keep the awl blade marks IN the channel where you want 'em. GOOD START!

I don't dye the inside of belts unless specifically asked to. The black one is shown just because it's dyed with the oil dye you mentioned.

Yep, 1) Leather MUCH drier than that, and 2) don't 'line up' the tool, just walk it

Not in the market at the moment, but that's a fair price. What part of Iowa?

Did you message Shooter? He listed one - might ask if he still has it . His ad : http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53608