JLSleather

Looks about like the ones splashed all over Etsy. https://www.etsy.com/listing/170838098/handcrafted-realtree-camo-leather-bifold?ref=shop_home_feat_4 He's likely not makin much money per piece, but I suppose it all works out if you sell 700 of 'em Not a great labor investment, so he's prolly happy.

Yep, but far as i know not the ones that stitch that heavy. If you can get a new BOss for $1100, might be worth doing - just to have it there in case the other machine needed service and you got orders to put out. As a rule, I think foks around here tend to over-build anyway. I have never - and will never - make belts outta two layers of skirting leather. And #415 thread is for pulling my truck out of the snow bank, not for stitchin But, up to about #207-#277 thread and half an inch thick there are machines available. Toledo's 3200 model runs $1600 new. I just mention that one cuz it's at the top of this site. I didn't buy one, since I don't need one. But, if I was in the market for another machine I'd likely look at that one.

Agreed. I use Fiebings dyes most of the time, but the Angelus brand does have a "louder' green. http://turtlefeathers.net/text/angelus/dye.html

Powered machines are available in that same price range. Only advantage might be either you're one of those who wants to be able to stitch at craft shows / rodeos / whatever (which I'll never do) OR if you see one that's SO cheap (probably due to them moving to a powered machine)...

I like 'em layed flat, grain side down, but I have a table large enough to do that, with a full-length shelf under it. It's also my cutting table, so I can pull out the piece I want, flip it on the table, make the cut(s), and right back on the under the table shelf it came off.

http://www.thethreadexchange.com/

I like it Personally, I do like the belt slots stitched, but just for cosmetics. Your rig looks GOOD !

New leather absolutely shouldn't be that dry. Is your shop very dry? In the winter up here, I run a humidifier. And, I assume that you're wetting the leather at the fold before bending ...

I MEAN it ... Primer? That's a whole CLASS

That's a LOT of questions I think I tend to run about one notch lighter than lots of folks when it comes to thread size. Some of that stuff is maybe better for pulling your truck outta the snow bank than for stitchin So your specific project ... think i'd probably wanna use a #138 thread at about 6/7 spi. There's some 'flex' in that depending on how firm the leather is, and such. Depending on where the pocket "hits", I might use up to 8spi. I rarely do anything 'tighter" than that. For gun slings / guitar straps, same thread and maybe step it up to 6 spi (largely decorative anyway). heavier stuff, heavier answer - so, holsters 207, weightlifing belts 207 or 277 @ 5 spi (that much strength isn't necessary - only in the mind of the weightlifter). I personally use thread down to a #46 (as well as 69 and 92) but that's under what your machine wants to do, no?

Yeah, most foks have sides in like 2/3 oz up to heavier skirting in the 14/15 range. Just a matter of keeping in mind that the belly of a cows hide, much like foks in general, tends to be a little softer and stretchier. Likely fine for linings or projects that dont get a lot of stress put on it. Not so good for holding sharp detailed form either. HO stocks weights, W&C will split it to the weight you want, even Tandy carries several weights. And there are grades in the sides, just like the shoulders. The reason I balk at buying sides (with the belly) -- you know that looser-grained slightly spongey stuff at the corners of yer shoulder leather? Imagine 5-6 sq feet of leather that's a bit worse than that. One more 'for info' thingy.... if you have the room for the belly, almost a toss-up to take it or not. They're gonna charge more for the backs per sq foot. Depending on where you buy it, 5-6 feet of leather is gonna run $40 (ish). So, if they're gonna charge $40 to cut the belly off, might as well take it. And one bitch and whine remark. Usedta be that foks would cut a straight edge down one length of the hide for you, just cuz you asked. Nowadays, they want a fortune for the smallest "extra". Remember when you usedta do things like that just because the guy would return the loyalty and get his leather from you all the time? ....

Red: If I had to use ONE word to recommend a fella what makes (largely) holsters and belts for them, "backs". THE best part of the leather for belts is in the butt, and running from the butt to the neck. Leather, like wood, has a grain, and a grain direction. Strongest in the center of the hide, along the spine, and butt to head. We've all seen some really nice stuff made out of shoulders, and most of us have likely used them one time or another. Theory, if you cut from the same hide (all else the same) then the BACK or BEND leather will be stronger down teh length than SHOULDER leather (since the double shoulder strip is cut "across the grain, allowing more stretch). Realistically, if you're making belts double layer and stitched (and not tooled extensively) then the shoulders are fine. There's a LOT of strength built into multiple layers (and the thread becomes a "layer" for strength). I buy sides in lighter weights - 3/4 4/5 - because I can use the belly leather (which is much more porous and loose grained) for small projects that don't get stressed much. Wallets, coin things, portfolio interiors, and belt linings. That said, I'm talking about lining belts that are carved, lined and stitched with a TOTAL thickness of about 10-12 oz (the lining is intended to be PURDY, not carrying any weight). Above about 5 oounce, I buy backs, because I know I won't use up the smaller pieces and can't be bothered to split it down. So, the belly is no use to me, thus I buy the 'back' (the side, with the belly cut off). Reason I say backs: The best belt leather comes from the BEND, which would be from the tail to the shoulder. But suppliers price by this "cream of the crop", too. Buying the back gets you the belt bend, plus the 'single shoulder', which as you already know is fine for holsters. If you're dyeing rich browns and blacks, perhaps no matter. The advantage of usig the backs is that you have a belt and a holster cut from the same hide - which then should dye the same. And form the same. And stitch the same. And...

It DOES! I checked those stamps on the Weaver site. Even if they were availalble, those are NOT the stamp that made that border. I havent seen the one from Watts, and don't see any on that site either. If it looks like the Weaver's that aint gonna work. Not a problem, though, I like to do what I said i'll do. So, if it's $8 to research and find you the right stamp, I'm OK with that Tell me where ta send it, might just cover the shippin'

Just saw the listing. Two things I'd ask about. What happened to the guard by the take up lever, and , why don't he know if the light works, is his arm broke and he can't flip the switch? I don't like those "works far as I know" deals Just a thought.. isn't "Cobra Steve" out yer way? Think he has used machines as well as new ones.

I have the RB-5. Two layers of 9 oz veg tan will go through it, but I think if you'll be sewing this consistently you might step the machine up one size. Theory says it'll sew like 1/2" (two 9 oz more like 9/32"). But, my truck speedometer reads to 130 - doesn't mean it should be run at capacity like that. I'm not a sewing machine "guy", but as a guy who worked with machines and gears for a good while, I can tell you the rule is 60% capacity. If you want to go 60 mph, get a machine that "could" do 100 and you'll likely be fine. That principle, if you want to sew 9/32", you might get a machine that will sew about 15/32" without 'screaming'. The other issue, if you're sewing bags, a fella might want a cylinder bed machine (so you can stitch the tops). Now, if you got the chance to pick one up cheap, not needing extensive work....

Shaped like a rope stamp. BUT, $8 says that's an embossing roll, not a stamp at all.

Did you see these? Down yer way, actually ... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53820#entry344462

Threaded. Always. Never met a lace that didn't work with them, long as you have the correct size (the XL latigo needle wont work well with 1/8" flat lace).

Same solvent you use to thin the dye. I 'rinse' between colors and 'clean' between uses - short version.

As far as spray patterns, I think you could get about 3/4" wide out of the small tip (not including overspray), and I think twice that wide from the larger tip. Check Ebay, sometimes you can find them brand new for LESS than in the "box" stores. Not sure why, but there they are. I know you said cost not an issue, but if you're like me you don't spend $75 for what you can just as easily get for $50! You can get less expensive models, but I like that parts for these are everywhere. I can go to the hobby store right down the hill and replace a needle if I need to.

Yeah, we've used the VL for years. They just re-designed it recently, so it's a bit different than mine, but likely not much. For what it's worth, I use the #1 tip MOST of the time, with pressuer between 20 - 25 lbs of air. They come with a 1/4 oz cup. Just to give an idea, I think she used about 1 ounce of dye to do the brown background and lettering on this binder, all with the #1 tip (it would have been a bit faster to use the #3 or #5 tip, but then you'd have to clean more than one tip and needle, so not really faster). I have several of these, so I just leave the #1 tip in that one, #3 in that one .. etc. I have several not because I'm saying it's THE best one, but just so when I pick up the next one, it works the same way as the last one ... Still, a #1 tip is certainly large enough to do straps / belts in not much time. Seriously -- 4 ounces is a LOT of dye for a strap. You didn't say which gun you bought. Some really ARE for extremely fine detail (only). The Paasche AB got very renouned for it's use in medical drawings (someone used it - maybe the 80's - to make a painting of the human eye, complete with blood vessels, etc. === That was AMAZING artwork). Oh, forgot .. this binder is about 13" x 13", and the back is colored solid brown same as the front color.

Just guessing from many listings I've seen lately, apparently "hand tooled" is widespread- 'hand carved' is not. I guess if click a shape, emboss a design in a press, this is still "hand tooled" as long as you had a TOOL in your HAND when you edged it, or set the snaps, etc. Perhaps that's marketing poop, or perhaps that's as far as the conscience will allow some to go. You don't have to look far .. there are links to Etsy shops every third page around here. Now, each his own. I don't even sweat it - people have been full of it since before i was born. I just concern myself with MY stuff. If someone asks, I'll tell them how I did it. No charge. You don't have to buy the book. I have a machine, but I'll saddle stitch it if requested. I don't have a clicker press, though I haven't ruled that out and think if I clicked the shape, it'll still be my work. I could go on, but the ones who might listen already know ...

A couple of things : Since you specifically mention making holsters, then you'll want to keep the leather thickness at least 7 ounce (some of the boys use TWO layers of 4/5, for a total of about 9 ounce thick). For very simple designs, not a lot of tools needed. Seriously, to make a simple holster, you could do that in a simple basketweave with... Piece of 8/9 ounce leather (about 2 sq ft for a good size one, less for smaller rigs) Knife to cut out (your exacto kit probably has what you need) Swivel knife, smooth beveler, basket stamp, cam or border tool (for basketweave design tooling), Some type of dye (Fiebing's spirit dyes are a long favorite of many folks), thread, stitchin needles, and something to make holes (I like an awl, but look around the forums), Folder, modeling tool, Hole punch (for belt slots, etc) for holsters, you might consider an oblong (#5) and a regular wood chisel. Together with your xacto, this would let you punch belt holes, too, if you were to decide on the belt to match. Plus, wait - no plus - that really is all you need. Beyond that, because I've made most of the mistakes that can be made, here's my 'add-on'. Spend $5 at a hobby store, if you don't already have transparent triangles. You know, the 30/60 , 45/90 little things likely in the drawing or drafting section. Great for making borders (straight), and many other uses you'll see once you have it within reach. If you're going to lace, spend the couple bucks and get threaded lacing needles called Perma-Lok. Without being long-winded about it, those "prong" needles are crap. Get a caliper, if you dont' have one yet. Doesn't need to say Sharpe or Starrett, just $10-15 at the hardware store (or auto parts store prolly got one too). Measure thickness of leather, distance to edge, size of holes, etc. I "ounce" thickness = .0156" (or about .4 mm) Do not pay someone for "scrap". This is one of the biggest insults I've seen from leather suppliers (and there are many). I recommend going with a USEABLE piece of leather.

Well, ,uhhmm.. yeah, that would work. But if you're running it through a machine, why not put thread in the machine??!!