JLSleather

They do see the leather workers coming, don't they? Hole punches, carbon steel, sharp and ready to use, up to 3/4" -- called "hollow punch". Price range $8-13 for 7-piece set. Hole punches, carbon steel, not so sharp actually, but named "leather punch" or "for leather", price range $4/ea and up Reminds me of that joke my boy told me when he was little ... What do you call a boomerang that doesn't come back? A stick. Seriously, when you've determined there is something you need, do yourself a favor and think about what you're getting before you swipe the card. Odds are, you can get the same thing for much less -- from someone who isn't "marketing" tools. Oh, yeah .. a "burnishing mandrel" is a dowel with a groove.

Not sure what pattern you have,but for a zipper that size I would stick to brass and put it in a leather gusset. If the zipper ever wears out, it can be replaced without tearing up the case. I dont like nylon (or poly) zippers. About anywhere you shop should have #5 zipper tape (and you'll want 'pulls', bottom stops, top stops). Aluminum available also, if the color matters. Hobby stores often carry pre-fab zippers in different lengths, but it's not worth my time to "hope" they have the right length.

Re-wetting of the leather can cause that, and some leather is not as tight grained as others. So, first start with a good piece of leather. Next, with a solid color you may find it better to dye the leather, THEN stamp (I've always thought it strange when the same guy who tells you not to re-wet the leather also tells you to dye, dye, oil, finish, etc...). I understand that's not the color you were after, but I personally think if a guy had a row o' stitchin down each side of the keeper loop it'd be just fine. Future, really is that simple - if it's still too rich for you, thin it more.

That's quite the drop -- working better for you now?

Yikes .. she sold one o' these this morning for $59. GOT to have a talk with that girl ... I mean, old Stohlman design, so not like she spent any time at all with layout, but ... Oh, well - it's her show, guess she'll do what she wants. Math-able. Carving leather $2.78 Chrome goat $1. Backing $.50 Calf lace $4. SUBT $8.30 with dye, finish, cement, wax, call it $9 (which is a bit generous) Meh ... $59 close enough.

There is no "right" about this one. You could dye the leather first, though if you're tooling it may be easier to adjust dye shades if you tool first. If you're stamping (geometrics, basketweave, seed, etc) it wont matter one bit. I oil AFTER the dye, but with a little practice you'll figure which you personally prefer. Here's a picture in leather from a couple years ago. There IS NO tooling, just a pattern that someone on the site uploaded that I decided to paint. Fiebings spirit dyes. No tooling. Red thinned about 20:1 if I remember right (and I'm not saying I do). No tooling, though. No tooling. CLICK picture to see it colored. The avatar to the left, on the other hand, is tooled. Tooled, then background dyed full-strength chocolate brown, then pale green/brown mix, then just thinned brown. Light oil, then Tan-Kote.

That's a BIG shoulder! And, yes, 16 feet. Marked or not, that's 16 feet. You could take an ink pen, and write on the back 16.0, since that's how it's often done (or a marker).

Pretty tough to learn tooling leather on anything but leather. Translation: you need leather. Doesn't have to be beautiful flawless leather, but should be leather that tools WELL (you want to see it the way it's SUPPOSED to work). You didn't mention where you're at. I'm in Iowa, so if you're in the area I'll GIVE you some pieces, just pick em up!

You want to dye it yourself, or get it dyed and just cut, either way at http://www.wickett-craig.com/index.php/leathers/colors Or, look at their tooling leathers, which they will split to the thickness you want. Single layers? Lined and stitched? I haven't used every type of leather they list, but those i've used have been quite good.

You'll do better researching what people in your area (you decide the area) are charging for the same item in the same quality. "Per hour" doesnt mean anything around here. Seriously, I pay for what I'm getting, not how long it took you to get there. By "you", I mean anybody. Example: You make a belt. Fully tooled, good solid leather, good color, and give a warranty - say, if used for what its for, you replace it for 10 years. You price yours at $100 (example). On the other side o' town, I make the same belt. Except I used a swivel cut where you used a "veiner", they are identical. Cut from the same leather. Guy tells me he can get a warranty from you, so I offer the same deal. But, it took me nearly twice as long as you. So, SOME foks 'logic' says mine should be $200. This doesn't even make sense. Do I really get a REWARD for being slow? If I took twice as long and made it twice as nice, this might be legitimate, but remember we're talkin about the SAME belt. If you call a cab, and he blows a tire, is it okay if he leaves the meter running while the tire is changed? Maybe bill you for the new tire? Just a tip ... the time you spent on faqbaq (or tweety, or whatever) trying to convince people why it's worth more ... doesn't count in the time to make the belt (and drying time, seriously). I could go on, but in the end it's YOUR choice to do whatever you want with YOUR leather. Reminds me, that chubby girl has a sale over at cheesey, or etsy, or something like that .. 66% off on already too-low pricing. She's a smart-mouth .. only does it cuz she CAN Oh, just went and checked ... this one holds standard size cards, one pocket each side, maybe thick enough to hold 6-8 cards .. current pricing $7.06 (free shipping with anything else). Doin the math, that's $2.77 worth of leather, so $3 by the time you add dye, finish, thread, and an extra needle "in case". TRIPLE material cost (standard-ish) would price this at $8.32, but like I said it's a 'sale'. Some prefer an hourly thing: materials still $3, total invested time (including cleaning the brush) 1/4 @ $25/hr = $3 + $6.25 = $9.25 Oh, keep in mind she may not be able to get the whole $9 and change - just because there are 100 guys right behind her willing to do this for $8.32, making the whole pricing thing a dead issue.

That's a fuzzy sucker, true I check, personally, that the back of the hide doesn't look like this (it shouldn't). But, if you have a piece already, then possibly the most reliabe (and maybe the quickest) way to solve the issue is to line the strap, stitch the edge. A piece of 2/3 or 3/4 on the back will look nice, add some substance to the strap without making it stiff, allow her to throw some oil at it (or saddle soap, or etc ...) easily. Still won't help with the pup. Maybe sell her a new collar that matches the bag?

The createx paints are water based - the 'pearlized' are the only ones I use, and I use them just for that purpose. Far as Im concerned, acrylics don't belong on leather at all (though some would disagree). Leather is intended to flex.. acrylics, not so much. I can tell you the createx paints do NOT penetrate the leather, and this 'disclaimer' goes to each person who practically begs me to use them (which is what it takes). But, yes, you the solvent will go out of spirit dyes and you CAN go over them with the acrylics (and the acrylics will be no better or worse because of the alchohol dyes).

Gotcha. That is the correct firearm and you are a gentleman. This will be an envelope 'western' foldover. That 19 is a LOT taller. On the glock autos, I have some kabob sticks that are just the right diameter for sight channels. THANKS!

Is that tooled? Looked like maybe burned in ...

Not sure I understood that... so the 19 is HIGHER?

Thought maybe the K frame. Thanks!

Recommendation on holster mold for this one? 4" .357

You'll get a lot of different answers for this one. My best .. depends on the size of the book cover. For a small, say 5 x 8", 4/5 oz leather is heavy enough. For a covering on a hard cover book (the book itself is a 'stiffener", then teh 6/7 is fine. For a 8 x 11", no hard cover inside it, I like a TOTAL weight of about 8 or 9 oz, but since i like them lined i generally would use a 6/7 with a 2 oz lining. No skiving, but on the heavier ones I do gouge the fold lines.

I bought ONE of those "top grade" tooling sides a long time ago. Never again. Nor will I ever pay for a "craftsman' side (even if it says HO on it). The "B" grade HO is much better than that, though I have seen some HO that's a bit 'spongey' from time to time. As a rule, foks (including SLC) sell the hide closest to what you asked for. Just a little math for the new (ish) folks ... whether to buy a side, a back, a bend, etc. The sides ...............................................around 25 feet, .........................@ $8.19 / ft ............. = $205 Backs (side without the belly) ................around 17 feet...........................@ $8.69 / ft ............... = $148 Bends (side without belly or shoulder)....around 12 feet ..........................@ $130 / ea ............... = $130 This pricing is SLC wholesale price for HO "B" grade (just for example). I don't buy sides, except in 2/3 or 3/4, because i know i won't use up the belly of the heavier weights. The bends work out at about $12 / ft when you add shipping - while this is the 'cream of the crop' part of the hide, that still seems excessive. So, I generally get backs. For an extra $50, I could get 6-8 feet of belly, but no point just to cut it off. A better approach is to first determine what you'll use it for. Backs, I think, are prime for holster boys (an girls), since you can make belts from the bend section and make the holsters from the (less rectangular) shoulder area of the same hide. As one who enjoys making belts, I let them pick sometimes. If they have a side long enough to cut two belts from one strip, that's fine. If not, then I might just take the bend, as this is certainly the best leather for carving. I have found useable leather at Tandy on occasion, though I just go pick it out myself. SLC gets some attention because they will cut you a piece if you ask (expect a charge for this). They skived a couple of long pieces down to 3/4 oz for me once - when I had a bunch of 3/4 but not a piece long enough for the current issue. So, in one case, didn't wantt to buy a side of what I already had quite a bit of. I paid WELL for those two little pieces, and wouldn't do it that way again, but that's there if you like ....

These are sold.

Oh, hey, Dwight .. sorry, din't see your response. Couple folks was askin, so I took one quick picture. I'll give 'em a bit to respond, who already did, then I'll throw up a price. There's a bit more than this, but this is the 'top shelf'. Oh, that piece the square is layin on is 3/4 oz, the one under it (and most of this) is 8 oz

Cleaning out the shop, plus I seriously hate inventory. Somebody can get some decent leather at a bargain, and I get the place cleared, everybody's happy. All H.O. "B" grade. SLC has the strips for $12 (wholesale price), here you git em for half that. Everything cut from 7/8 or 8/9 HO leather. Good news and bad news. The price is great, but I'm not piecing it out. Since the point is to clean the shop, then it only makes sense if it all goes. I'll get some pics as I get organizing, but I know I have , at least half a dozen strips, 8 oz, mostly 1 1/2" wide, one about 47" and the rest are 50" or more. a couple that are longer, and quite a few shorter (20-40", so still good for collars/wristbands/billets/etc). a few cut out 'cobra' style rifle slings, 8 oz tooling leather Any interest in some clean "B" grade leather, send me a message and I'll add to this as I clean shelves ...

Great texture -- this is nice!

That's lookin like pretty quick learnin's Your first one has some VERY choppy bevel marks, but in the second you can see you're already eliminating much of that. Knife cuts look pretty smooth (as opposed to start/stop, jagged, drag marks). By way of suggestions ... for the type of design you're doing, you might look up a bit about matting. No time to find it at the moment, but I remember a good while back there was a (quite good) example and discussion on matting figures by yaklady (member name). You might try the search bar either for matting, or for her 'content'. No point re-inventing the wheel, I remember her discussion was quite good and so were the pictures...

Agreed. And tha's true of leathercraft in general, I think. So much crap out there, the new guy might actually think it's SUPPOSED to look like that. I think i met that guy, doesn't care to improve anything. After all, somebody bought some of his stuff - maybe even more than twice - so why make it better? I figure - each his own. Only irritates me occasionally when I see someone who doesn't know a "G" chord from a "C", trying to teach music (just to borrow your analogy for a minute).