JLSleather

https://www.leathercraftlibrary.com/p-1135-the-art-of-hand-sewing-leather-by-al-stohlman.aspx

You might wanna just get a set of 'smooth' feet, save the toothy varmints for zippers n such. Set a feet for that thing kaint be more'n a few bucks. Bob prolly got em in stock http://www.tolindsewmach.com/

What you describe is pretty much what I usually do. I don't like the standard "backstitch" either, having seen them come undone (though usually with light threads). Even with this "backtak" thing. So, I generally put 2-3 'saddle' stitches at each end of the project (assuming there are two ends, not meeting back whre I started). Looks nicer, and for a few minutes of my time I have piece of mind that if the first one doesn't come loose, then the 2nd and so on won't either. Not misspelled, I really mean PIECE of my mind....

Very nice!

I'll tell her you said so Case that wasn't clear from teh post, this was made BY a chubby girl, not "for" one .... And the little mark, just left of the keepers, is where the hole goes for a pretty good size trophy buckle....

Just cut it straight, and make it half a size big... the dog will wear down the part in front of him OR, make a template as wide as you would like the ends to be. Finish the "widening" part with a radius NOT tighter than the radius you'll use to burnish the edge with, x-acto knife and two mins ...

yeah, I know .. not too bad for a chubby girl ...

Veg leather is flat, grain side down, stacked, lightest weight on top. Chrome leathers are hanging over 1 1/2" wooden dowels suspended from ceiling (looks a bit like a heavy clothing rack). All of this takes up about 30 sq ft of floor space, or basically the size of the largest hide plus room to walk down behind there and cut the length of the hide. When I need a 10 oz strap - generally on the bottom - I just slide the top hides over a few inches, cut what I need, and slide the lighter hides back. But, really, this doesn't take THAT much thought n planning... I knew a guy, long time ago, well before this thread started. ... buy a side of 3/4 oz and cut the entire thing into wallet carving backs (70 of em, give er take). When he got ready to make billfolds, he'd open a drawer and pull em out ready to carve - usually 10 at a time.

Lacing or stitching? The book is 8" wide and 10" tall? Yer gonna want ... 1" thick plus 1/4" clearance (1/8" front and back) plus 8" book width (front) plus 8" book width (back) plus 1/4" for stitching (3/8" for lacing) each side, or total of 17 3/4" wide and 10" high, plus the 1/4" top and bottom (stitched) leaves you with a piece 17 3/4" x 10 1/2", assuming you cut it in one piece. If you're gonna lace the edges, cut it 18" and won't hurt a thing.

Don't actually know, as I've never ordered them. But, these at least "claim" to be okay .. http://springfieldleather.com/18888/Belt-Blank%2CSnaps%2C1-1-2%22x48-52%22/ Already has snaps, but then maybe a buckle and a keeper?

So doing the math, "officially" a belt would be in the range of 1/2 square feet. Also "officially", MANY belts are cut from the shoulder section of the hide, purchased as a "double shoulder". You can get these in 12-14 sq ft pieces that are certainly large enough to cut belts (perhaps 15-20 belts depending on size and shape of the piece). Also "officially", Matt is correct, the sturdier belt is going to come from the back portion of the hide (less stretchy / tighter grain). In the end, if you just want to make a belt er two, you might just order the blanks.

Leather is often stamped when flat and then molded. If, however, you want extensive forming, you might take a look at that old book (still good, tho) http://www.tandyleat...s/61915-00.aspx OH, and to answer your question, when to stamp leather ♫ Stamp it in da moh nin ♫ Stamp it inna e-nin ♫ Stamp it when a sun go down ... ♫♫

Got a drill? Drill the rivets out of the clipboard. You can buy the clips, but since you already have this could just as well use it. Git yer left side piece where you want it. Punch two holes in it that line up with the clip. Put the plastic behind that piece and put two (longer) rivets through the plastic, the leather, AND the clip. This solves two problems .. the clip is now on top of the leather and FLUSH to hold the tablet, and your piece of plastic is retained - kaint fall out. Oh, one additional benefit of doin it this way ..when the clip wears out (it WILL), you just knock the rivets out (again) and replace the clip without destroying anything else. The other issue, I really don't see ME rollling that entire edge. It'll be REALLY cold that day A fella "could" roll a binder around the edge, if you want it covered. Forget what they call that .. almost like piping. Maybe ona the sensitive, sewing types kin chime in ... Basically, use a 1" (ish) strip of yer lining material to wrap the edge.

yeah. exactly.

What's the benefit, or the difference between a 'post' machine or a cylinder with a table?

Yep, I think Dwight got it covered. If you're not comfortable doing this, likely any machine shop in the country can do it pretty cheaply. Basically a very small die with a handle. The link is about what you need, but it's simple enough to make one with the angles you need. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/3200-00.aspx

Seems like the dealer should have adjusted all of that, and I'm not sure how it would move significantly. But, there's a little thing in there, simple to see if you're in the right place. Need a small but fairly long screw driver. Did you get a user guide with your machine? Top right of your machine, next to the handwheel, is a cover plate (no?). Swing the plate out of the way, look down the top, Behind the oil 'wick', you'll see a slotted screw next to two "wheels". Actually, these are nothing more than locking sleeves on the shaft. You'll know the ones, you should see two marks beside each other. Manual calls 'em "marks", looks more like "dots". Basically, these should be lined up across from each other. But, there is some adjustment. Loosen the screw a bit. Then move the left 'mark' - towards the back makes the reverse stitch longer, towards the front makes the reverse stitch shorter. Then tighten the screw back in. Now, that's the theory, but there are no fine graduations on the adjustment, so its a "bout so much" adjustment.

Bob has a couple styles of edge guide. His phone number is on the site somewhere .. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/consew-206rb.html And, there's a screw right behind the thread post (top of the machine, about in the middle) whre you can adjust the pressure of the foot (leff is less). It's set down just a bit, so you might have to stand up to see it.

YIKES! Do people in Kazakhstan have a translation for "that's absolutely gorgeous"...

Shoddy, just shoddy, Mike. I mean, the stool looks nice and all, but where's the CUP HOLDER?????????????

If you're running slow enough to tell where the bar is in the stitch, then you won't break it going into reverse. Gotta be on the upswing to complete the forward stitch, though.

This one is about a double loop lace thing. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leathercraft-abc/leathercraft-abc-pg3/leathercraft-abc-pg3.aspx And this one, is a cuz you can thing. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.288485834542527.71464.118170391574073&type=3 At least one will help.

With the Fiebing's colors, you can 'tone down' the reddish tint with a touch of green added. Do this S L O W L Y as the green is quite strong and it doesn't take much at all. You might try mixing a bit in a different bottle, 'case you dn't like it. One more thing, not sure what shade you are after exactly, but I always thought the Fiebings buckskin was a bit yellow-ish.

As a rule, I don't like to see basket stamping less than 4-5 rows high. Just to give you a starting point - since we don't know what you're callling 'small' -- two belts in the picture, both black so color doesn't figure in. Top one is 1 1/4" wide, and done with a 511. Bottom is 1 1 /2" wide, with a narrower border, and done with a 514. My personal preference, I would have used a smaller stamp on BOTH of these, 'tighten' it a bit.

"Suede" is just a term for animal skin with the top grain removed. Chrome tanned doesn't burnish, but the veg tanned will. The BACK side of you 10oz veg tanned leather IS "sueded". We sometimes (incorrectly) interchange the term 'veg tanned' for tooling/carving leather. Tooling leather IS veg tanned, but it is not the ONLY veg tanned. Here's the (eventual) point ... You'll likely see what "looks like" suede, marketed as a "split". When it comes off the animal, it's thicker in some spots than others. They'll skive it (say, to your 10 oz stuff) and the underside is "split" off, but still same tannage. Just terminology. People differentiate "leather" and "suede", but suede IS leather. And when we say leather, lotsa foks think cow - which may or may not be the case.