JLSleather

Looks like out of stock, Kate. Try this one, page 15 (better pricing, too). http://stleather.com/

Hey Rob, Merry Christmas yourself! I'm gonna step outta the way in a minute for to make room for someone more experienced with saddle work. But I did want to say that I appreciate a fella who can recognize and admit his mistakes, learn from them and determine to work toward correcting them. Good post, and I love the color and the smooth look!

Not sure just what 'orangey' is, but I'd try a bit of green. Note that the green is quite loud by itself, so just a bit.

This , of course, is why Mike is the ambassador. WAY more diplomatic than I would have been - thanks, Mike!

I think you call this one a [hard] lesson learned. The stuff he sold you was 1.) not what you asked for, and 2.) not acceptable even for what he claimed it was. Twin Oaks has some good information for you, so I won't repeat all of that. Best advice, get some decent tooling leather - and leave that guy out of your craft. If the pictures are close to what you are actually seeing, that guy should have paid YOU for taking out his trash. For anyone wishing to learn the craft, either as a hobby or an enterprise, do not listen to those who tell you this rough stuff is "good for practice". Leather crafting requires practice, but bad practice is worse than none.

Actually, what you're doing IS the accepted method - you're right! If you aren't happy with the result you are getting, you could cut it a little high and finish it with coarse sand paper. If you're doing dozens or hundreds of these, a guy could tilt the table of a belt or disc sander to a 45 deg angle, though this seems extreme if you're only talking about a few pieces. When making these bevels, it may be beneficial to cut to just above the bottom of the leather (leave just a small 'flat' on the bevel). It won't matter to your sewing, and you won't have that feather edge to contend with.

Here's a pic showing SOME of 'em, and I know that 2540 is a 3/4" alphabet, and 2181 is an old belt design. Posted for anybody who finds it helpful ...

For short borders, try a plastic triangle or template. This will give you a straight edge while allowing you to see the leather underneath. Also, since it's not metal it won't stain the wet leather. For longer borders, such as on belts, use a creaser.

Did she say she has plastic and rubber on TOP of the rock? Throw the plastic off to the side, put the rubber UNDER the rock, should be easier tooling AND quiet times. Steppin' out the way now ...

Sweet! Free is good. And, yes, creaser.

piece of sand paper wrapped around a sanding block or a block of wood should do it

How many stamps, and what size? As a leather crafter, I would want to see the impression it makes in leather. If they're fairly small - say smaller than 2" x 2", I'd just take a piece of leather, scribe a visible 'grid' on it, and make the impression with the stamp beside it. Do these stamps have a handle? Punch holes in the leather next to the impression the size of the stamp and insert it so it stays facing UP. If you want to get away from "awefull and amateurish", I don't think $10 worth of leather would be "wasted".

I punch right on the tooling block, with a piece of heavy leather scrap under the project. That same piece of scrap can be used for testing the dye color.

If the table you're using to cut is solid, just cover it with 1/8" or 1/4" masonite. Comes in 4'x8' sheets, won't dull your tools, lightweight so it's easy to replace. Should have a chunk in any building material store. Most places will sell ya a half sheet (4'x4') if that's easier to transport. Just drop a small screw in each corner so it don't move on ya, back em out when it needs replacin'. Less than$10, likely.

Blot it much as you can .. and wait.

Oh, is that little lever in the middle supposed to be up like that?

Strap and video both nicely done. Left-handed awl threw me off fer a minute, otherwise great!

Is the thread balled up behind the bobbin pushing it out? I'm no sewing machine tech, but try this site ... http://www.devicemanuals.com/productsupport/Singer_211G166_manual.html

I've always used Fiebing's spirit dyes, and I probably use more of the chocolate than any other color. With the browns, I just get the dark brown and thin to the shade I want - 5 shades I use all the time and a couple of empty jars I use to mix a shade I just need that day. It's true that the brown has a bit of a reddish tint - it's been like that since the first bottle I bought. I get the brown BECAUSE of the tint. But, if you don't like the red (ish) in it you can "neutralize" it by adding a touch of green. If you go that way, I'd suggest you mix in a separate bottle until you get the color you want, then thin as needed. Pretty tough to get a color match the other way around. I have a couple of pics i use for just this purpose. Two belts, very similar designs, dyed in just the same way. One in nothing but brown http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=17847 and one in nothing but chocolate http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?app=galleryℑ=17807 No antique or stain at all. Ever.

Bob Park - who owns that one - might just chime in on this one, but I'm wondering why you think they aren't 'hand drawn'? If you know the size you want, you can freehand, use a stencil, drawing / drafting templates, I've even heard of people using dinner plates or coffee cans to create a radius.

Nice, Chief. I like these little things, too. Made this one for myself, but a buddy "appropriated" it before I got it in the pocket (but I did get the C-note back) One o these days, I think I need to make something like this to add a USB drive - not sure about the magnets with it, though ...

Country ... it looks like a lot of the glare is coming from the lizard (or whatever that is) under the subject, not from the lighting at all. Use something with a mat finish, might just cure the issue

Thanks for the link Actually, I wasn't suggesting NOT using a round knife. Much more versatille than the disposable blades. I just meant that if all I need is a straight edge on a hide, or cut some simple shapes, then I use the disposable ones to avoid the wear (and additional sharpening) on the round knife.

I always have a "box cutter" (utility knife) around. Great for long straight cuts - and no sharpening. It's worth 25 cents for a blade to NOT have to sharpen it. As Chief said, they aint great for curves. For that (just cutting out leather) I use x-acto blades (stil no sharpening). With a round knife, you can cut, skive, bevel, stuff you wouldn't want to do with a utility knife. That said, I should say that I wouldn't want to do with a utitily knife, the next guy might be fine with it (I once saw a young boy with some line wrapped around a Pepsi can catching more fish than some fellas with all the latest tackle).