JLSleather

Tha's just funny, George Since I'm admittedly not a saddle maker (not that I would mind, I just haven't had much call for that around here) I suppose I've always lumped all of that into "rawhide". And at this point, I'm guessing the second half of my sentence makes the first half unnecessary

I guess it depends on what you're calling kip. Used to be, kip was a term for cow leather from a young animal (as in not a baby, but not a mother). Tight grained, but ran about 2/3 ounce. Guess I'm getting old ..

I don't know these people, but you might check their shop. Sounds like the kind of thing you're looking for. http://www.etsy.com/shop/KillorglinCreations?section_id=7934103

I meant to say it yesterday (and got busy) but this is quite nice!

Email sent

I didn't care so much for this (standard craftaid) design, but I think my wife is getting the hang of this (for a chubby foreign girl)

Oh, and in case you're about to have these other questions (or someone else is) about S-T Leather ... I buy all of my Fiebing's spirit dyes through them. Years of painless ... no problems. Their kidskin lining (Stock 3777) is beautiful stuff. Lots of available colors (though I always get the brown and/or black), about 1 1/2-2 oz, smooth but strong -- great lining for wallets, clutches, ;bags, other small stuff. Skins are about 5 sq ft each. I have yet to find anyone selling anything this nice for anywhere NEAR this price. I've used their contact cement (permanent) for a long time. It's a bit cheaper than some (and WAY cheaper than Tandy's whatevertheycallit) and you CAN'T pull it apart once it's stuck down. And last but not least, no - I don't work for them, I don't know anyone who does, and I don't get a commission for saying all this

http://stleather.com/ Down the left side, click "Adhesives", you can get the jar and the rubber cement. I've used it for years.

I don't think you want to do that ... from their web site .... Any hard surface, non-porous and that can be submersed in water can be decorated. Anything you can get paint to stick to the object most likely you can decorate it with this process. Examples of such materials are: plastic, glass, hardwoods, fiberglass, ceramics, and metal This is basically paint floated on water (not water soluable, meaning it doesn't mix in). So, when you "dip" something, the water runs and the paint stays. Pretty cheap method, and one I don't think was ever intended for leather. Better to "paint" the camo yourself with dye, or buy the camo leather drum dyed.

I don't honestly know. I think if I was going to "guess" something to try, I'd oil it and let it set a day or two. Depending on what I get, I might oil again. Regardless, if you want to bring it back from the edge, as they say, I'd try to restore the suppleness first - then maybe tool it IF that works (and it just might).

I wouldn't think any amount of water is going to help that. What it lost over the years is the natural OILS in the leather, not just moisture.

NOpe, can't find it. And it's not on the web site any more, either (discontinued).

Anybody can send me the "stock" pattern for this one? I ordered the kit a whle back, never put it together. Then this gal writes, and wants one of "these" - and attaches the catalog photo. So I get it out, to find the carving design isn't in there. Happens, right? So I simply ordered another one. No pattern. Well, coulda been a mistake? One more try, so now I have THREE of these laying around, and still no "original" pattern. Yes, I could put something else on there (and I personally would prefer that), but thought I'd take one shot at it around here. Oh ... and the problem at this point is that these little bags have been discontinued. I WENT to the Tandy store, figuring I'd pick one that HAS the pattern -- and they're gone )&%*)^%&$*

I use neatsfoot oil on everything. If you're getting "splotchy" and it doesn't even out in a few hours, you probably have something ON the leather preventing even penetration. WATER goes on evenly on everything. Take a piece of the same hide (scrap) and a damp spunge. Run the sponge over the entire surface. If you have "spots", you have something ON the leather.

Genereal rule for a double-loop stitch, you need about 7 times the length of the edge you're lacing. For a wallet that size, I think you'll find about 6 yards works well. I 2-piece it, as in 2 pieces of 3 yards.

On Ebay this morning looking for some OTHER stuff, and saw this. This is NOT my listing, but if you were thinking about getting these books this is a GOOD price - 3 for the price of one! Buy it Now price of $25 ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Al-Stohlman-Leather-Instruction-books-lot-3-/180794373145?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a182f3419

I'm still not big on antique (at all) - but that's a NICE looking belt. Love the stitching, too .. keep at it!

Fiebing's spirit dyes have always had a bit of a reddish tint. If you don't like the red tint, add a bit (just a bit) of green to the mix .... this will "kill" the red.

Any machine shop should be able to make one of those in about 15 minutes. Pay a few bucks extra and have them make it out of chrome rod.

2mm? So that's like 6/7 oz hide?

Yep, both those terms are used. "Double loop" is by far the most common method (U.S. makers) used. There's an OLD book "how to lace" from Craftool. Paper bound, black and white, and not at all "fancy", but it has detailed instruction on this and some other styles of lacing. Probably pick one up at any Tandy store (or where their stuff is sold) for a few bucks. This style is used widely because (1) it's simple to do, and (2) it looks quite nice when properly done.

My oldest boy needed a new belt. The belt and matching wristband is standard "ho-hum" commercial grade work, but I'm showing off the BOY Now if I could get him to put on a clean shirt and lose that hideous ring ... (hey, he's 17 - enough said).

I like the #5 oval punch - but this is general and should not be taken as fact for that buckle (cuz I don't know). Just wanted to say nice, clean looking belt ... love the stitching!

Okay, dyed the edge... From the size of your photo, I wasn't sure if you dyed it or if you folded the lining over to the border and then stitched (which would also look nice - long as it was well-trimmed). Either way, I'll say it again.... This looks NICE.

That sounds 'bout right ... the "old" wallets (in the U.S., maybe) were 9.25 x 3.375" and this is the size most of the craftaids you see were based on. The interiors were then made 9" wide, which if you assemble with the ends aligned left the whole deal slightly bent before lacing. Thus, 1/4" shorter for the U.S. folks. The height I suppose should suit the interior, not the other way around. Keep in mind a couple o' things here, though. I didn't use the "CF" inserts today, and I have no plans to use them tomorrow. The sizes I saw listed on them were quite different, and may be a "down under" thing. But, I have family in New Zealand, and they don't know too!