JLSleather

Yeah, you'll want the outside holes to line up. This will put a bend in your wallet in the middle, which is good -- it's supposed to help it fold shut without "puckering" the lining in the middle. TRANSLATION: Line up the holes on the outside, and there will be holes IN THE MIDDLE where you're sewing through the carving leather but not the lining.

This kit has been marked down about 50%, to where it's now a reasonable price. This is all stuff that would help with what you're wanting to do, and from there you'll have a feel for where you want to go with it. There's a Tandy in Little Rock just up the road from you where you can see some other stuff that might help, but I suggest you look into the site in the next paragraph before you go ... the SAME stuff for LESS money in St. Louis. You can pay the shipping and STILL pay less. You'll need some dye, finish, etc. I use Fiebing's spirit dyes, Neatsfoot oil, and Tan-Kote. Always good results, but I've heard good things about Angelus products and have been meaning to try them, too. Spirit dyes include alcohol (toxic if swallowed) and Angelus is water-based, but your kids are old enough that it's a personal preference. I get all of that at S-T Leather in St. Louis. The link works, but the prices haven't been updated on their site. There's a phone number on the site - just ask them to send you the 2010 catalog. Always good stuff from them. They will also have the lacing punches (3/32" for wallets) you'll want, and their belt snaps work well for half the money as other places. You'll want something to cut a long, straight edge on the hide to start from. Doesn't matter what you use ... I use a glass table top that came with one of my tables (6' long and I can see the leather under it). 2/3 ounce or 3/4 oz tooling leather for wallet backs, and 8/9 oz or 9/10 oz for belts (if you're making lined belts, a 6/7 oz with a 3 oz "inside" should be fine). No way to "pick" a good hide that I can tell you with this post, and I always recommend you go pick it out ... for look, feel, smell, etc. You'll probably also be wanting a good quality stitching/lacing horse, but I'll leave that recommendation for someone else, as I'm in the market for a better one myself

Just a reminder - the "name brand" stuff isn't always the quality stuff. I do more "watch OUT for" name brands than I do "watch for" name brands. Some folks seem to think that the person who spent more on advertising has the better product (????). And then, there's a considerable price difference from one place to the other for the SAME product. Depending on the age of the "kids", I'd think a strap cutter and box knife could be shared while mallets and tooling blocks might not be. Books and patterns certainly need not be bought repeatedly. But if you let us know what type of projects you're thinking about it would be easier.

Depends on how precise you want it done, actually. Got a machine shop close to you? Ask 'em to stick it in a lathe with a tool-post grinder. Probably run about $30-$50 around here, but you'll have a precision edge like ... oh .... forever. Find a guy who knows what he's doing and you'll only lose about 1/64" on the radius of the blade.

That fish in the photo is about 4 1/2" long (12 cm for the european crowd), which apparently seems really "awesome" when you're 3'11" The leather stuff is easy, THIS stuff is work!

This is nice looking stuff! The bars theme is a bit unsettling but as a former "jarhead" I like the USMC thing (nice job of adding some texture to "break up" the black). Keep at it, nice work!

Thanks! ... THEY like it. Personally, I don't remember roofing being that much work ...

THis wallet is done with Fiebing's spirit dyes (only). The sky and river are Navy, mixed about 30:1 with solvent. The "red" on the fish is red (not "dark red") and the green on the fish and the leaves is green (not "Kelly Green") mixed with dark brown and solvent. The guy's waders and the tree trunks are dark brown (thinned), just using more or less heavy applications. The "white" splash in the water is natural leather, not colored at all (no white). Little bit of thinned yellow on the fishing lure (about 10:1) and the brown spots on the fish and the guy's bait bag are [nearly] full-strength dark brown. I use this example because if I wanted to use a green lure, I could have painted this whole thing with 4 colors. Note the colors fade lighter as they become more distant. This handbag is done with yellow, dark brown, and VERY thinned black. The main body of the bag is one piece, and the rest is odds n ends from the scrap barrel. This was the ONLY reaosn for the dark brown ... all hides will match if dark enough. The yellow was used for contrast, so the whole bag wasn't just solid DARK leather, and the misted black for accent in the rose. These photos should open another window so you can see the photo and this text at the same time (I think). I use these two examples for this ... 1) all done with Fiebing's [spirit] leather dye; 2) shows colors mixing and blending; 3) both finished with Tan-Kote followed by Saddle-Lac; 4) no oil on either project; 5) Natural leather shows as a "color" blended into the scene, but still appears white (even with Tan-Kote). Hope all of this is of some value for you. Any more questions just ask around here, and keep in mind that photos always help.

That's alot of ground to cover for "basic" Without seeing what you have, I don't think anyone can make a simple set of do's and don'ts for your project, but here's a couple general things. You CAN case the leather, but it's not necessary. I've dyed veg-tanned leather with AND without moisture and been fine (I didn't add moisture so I could dye it, I just dyed it before it was completely dried from tooling). 2 things about moisture content here ... when leather is wet, it appears darker. So, if you dye the project when wet, it will appear slightly lighter when dry. On a solid color project, it may not matter. And, leather will "move" and shift with changes in moisture content, so the less times you wet it the better. If you're buying tooling leather, you shouldn't have to use a deglazer. If you can run a damp sponge over it and the water gets in smoothly, you're fine. This may be a reason to wet it in the first place ... you'll be able to see if there is anything on the surface preventing absorption. Just damp, don't "soak". Since you mention Tandy, I looked at their site. The "Leather Dye" shown here is spirit (alchohol) based, and is what I use. And I ALWAYS thin it with SOLVENT (though you can get the same stuff for about half the price of Tandy). Only dyes I use "full strength" are the navy blue (which is full-strength ONLY when used as a base coat for black), dark brown or chocolate for edges, and the black. The "Navy" is what I use for sky blue and water, though it's thinned ALOT. Any of these colors can be mixed for more colors (my "purple" is some red, some navy, and some solvent). Not sure what type of oil you're talking about, either. I use only Neatsfoot or neatsfoot compound (and sparingly) and I dye BEFORE oil. Here's a tip ... the spirit dyes all contain "particles" (sediment) suspended in the mixture. This is the "pigment", and the darker the color the more pigment present. When you hear people talk about wiping or buffing the surface and getting some of the "dye" (usually the black), this is what you're wiping off ... the little suspended particles that didn't penetrate because they don't get into the fibers. Not absolutely certain without seeing your project, but I'm guessing this is the "coppery" stuff you're referring to. When you follow the dye with the oil, it actually aids the entry of the particles (swell the fibers of the leather and "flush" in the particles). The black definitely is more "colorfast" when oiled after. I don't let the leather sit for days between coats. Example - when dyeing black, I'll dye it solid blue or green, then the black. If it's the end of my day, it won't get finished until tomorrow, but not necessary. The oil itself I let set for a whole day, as it does take a while to even out (which it will, it just isn't instant). I personally use an airbrush, especialy for large areas, but not required. My cheap model is the Paasche VL with a small compressor and an evaporator. Whole system for about $200. I have 4 of them, and reasons for that would make this post WAY too long. I always save the trim when I cut out a project, just for use for testing the dye color. DO NOT "assume" that the color you used last time will be identical this time. Hides are tanned with chemicals, and unless the leather and the chemical batch are identical, ... Even 2 hides ordered from the same supplier at the same time may not react quite the same, so always test on scrap FROM THE SAME HIDE AS THE PROJECT. I'll post one more time in a minute, with an example of what I'm talking about.

My buddies decided they needed a new roof, since the hail insurance was putting up much of the money. This roof is 52' long, and reminding me that I'm not a kid any more ... Oh, well, they're happy and I have a good idea that it won't need it again in my lifetime 3 days away from the leather for shingles (and a rain storm), and 2 more days getting the black crap off my hands so I can even DO leatherwork ...

Prob'ly make a difference if he wants to cover them on the rod (as in protect them from sunlight and brush) or put them away for the season off the rod. I've seen these for storing -- looks almost like a pistol case. On the rod you'd probably want the reels he has in mind for dimensions. Stohlman had a reel case in one of his "Art of Leather Cases" books. Or, you could check here.

Apparently, there's a handbag coming back. That's if the girl can be bothered to show up with it. This one was ordered for a Mother's Day present couple months ago, and I didn't know what the problem was because I heard it from the wife, who heard it from the girl, who heard it from her mother.... Saw the girl who ordered it this morning, asked if she was bringing it back. Figured worst comes to worst, I'll just make her a new one and replace it. But the girl says it has "dulled" and "ain't as shiny" and the purple (orchids) have faded. This SOUNDS like direct sunlight issue to me, so I'm putting this in this older discussion in case someone else has had this issue. Girl said my wife "hounded" her again yesterday to bring the handbag (since she was at her mother's house all day). Nothing yet, but I'm thinking we might just use this as an opportunity for us all to gain something. As in maybe I'll try to fix it with something I haven't used before, and let it be the "guinea pig" - then just replace it when it doesn't work Oh, yeah ... here's what the bag looked like when it left the first time. Note that 3 other bags I made that same time are just fine, all using the same hide and the same Fiebing's spirit dyes (in fact, one was out of the same "purple" mixture.

I don't use a "mark" at all. Your question is one you have to answer yourself, though. Here's the thing ... Where to put the mark, or whether to use a mark at all, is as much a part of being a "maker" as the leather you choose, or the shade of dye you prefer. I recommend you gather information and suggestions - from this site, from suppliers, from other crafters, etc - and use the information to form YOUR OWN style. Put the mark - should you choose to use one - where YOU want it.

I LIKED the site. Menu ALWAYS visible (which I think is a MUST), nice photos, personal without being "wishy-washy", clear navigation ... Two things I might do differently. Not that I'm necessarily "right", but thoughts (my wife says I'm antagonistic, but I disagree) 1.) Space the text just a bit. White on black will work, and the font size is okay for most, but maybe a few "points" added between lines. 2.) I would shorten the paragraph on your "wait time" page. Nothing on there sent me running for some other maker, but the initial impression when I click "wait time" is that I'm about to get a bunch of reasons why what I want is going to take too long. You cleared that up IN the text, but I think some will get that impression and be out. I LIKE the big, bold time frame right at the top (and "up front"), but maybe (without altering your text) shorten it up to NOT have that first impression ... Wait times are the bane of the custom gunleather world. I am a drilling member of the Army National Guard, and a member of my local Search and Rescue Team. Because of the unpredictable nature of both , I've built a small margin into the wait time for unexpected callouts, so don't be surprised if you receive your item sooner than quoted. If for some reason I have to suspend production because of either duty, it will be posted both here and on the home page. I don't expect to be called away from my business for more than one week a year (and doubtfully all at once), but I would feel remiss if I didn't put the possibility of it happening out in the open. I added the paragraph break because (1) it takes the same space as what you now show and gives the illusion of being "shorter", and (2) it leaves the reader's eyes seeing "don't be surprised if you receive your item sooner than quoted. "

This is the short version copied from a HUGE list of file extensions. If you care to, you can read more ('til you get LOST in there) at FILExt. The DB file type is primarily associated with 'Windows' by Microsoft Corporation. File is THUMBS.DB. If a folder is set to display thumbnails for graphic files this is the file where they are stored. If you delete the file Windows will rebuild it the next time you visit that folder. The file is normally marked as hidden and a system file so you may have to change settings to see it. If preview thumbnails get out of sync with the actual files, just delete this file and let it be rebuilt.

TWO things .... 1.) If you let us know what kind of stuff yer lookin for, I can probly help. 2.) I checked your site, and my computer reports a trojan horse infecting your site. Might wanna check that (can't be good for sales).

In case there was still any question if quality is necessary to make money (or for those deluded into thinking that vast sales MEANT quality) ... yes, this made MILLIONS $$... http://finance.yahoo.com/family-home/article/109858/man-behind-the-bandz?mod=family-kids_parents

Maybe dip the edge (of a piece of scrap) and see how much of it "bleeds" up the leather. Like a bowl with 1/2" of 'roon in it, then the leather stuck in and allowed to "wick" the solution up .... ????

This is poster board, 4" wide. Two strips, about 2' long. Mark as shown, should be pretty clear (let me know if I left out any details), 3" roller buckle shown spaced 1 ½" so you can decide if you like the spacing. Note that I have drawn a center line and measured everything out from there. The # 9 OVAL punch (stars) can be punched inside the 3/4" marks each way from the fold and still have room for the buckle. Personal preference. #4 ROUND punch (circles) at 1-3/4" and 3" from the fold for CHICAGO SCREWS for the buckle. NOTE: I punch only the one side of the fold line, then punch through the same holes after the fold is made and the keeper is in place (eliminates poor fit due to variation in leather thickness, which can be considerable with skirting leather). Cut out your pattern, leaving the full 4" width for at least 4" on each end (if your pattern pieces are 2" long, you're covered). When cutting out the belt, simply lay both ends on a 4" wide strap and measure from inside the buckle to the center hole like any other belt yer makin'. Photo is cut down, but still considerable, so I'm putting it in the image gallery. If I get some more time later, I'll cut one of these out for here.

Let us know how this works for you. I've never used the Angelus dyes, but I've been wanting to (but then, I have alot of spirit dyes, and I'm too tight to replace what isn't broke )

These are all nice looking tools but - color me traditional - I like the first one best personally. Nice stitch job!

Or, since you specifically mention purple, this one is some purple ... with Tan-Kote (though I admit that the "purple" is my own mix of red and blue).

Apparently, you have an idea what you want to do with the site. SO - I'm not going to re-hash that. I DO, though, have one comment on the items on your site. I looked at it again just now, and specifically your "Cheyenne" wallet. I LIKE this design, and I LIKE that color ... only thing I didn't like about it is those "cheesey" letter stamps. Honestly, I know that sounds more negative than I meant it to ... I meant that I think your craft is too nice to litter it up with those cheap COWPOUNDING stamps.

For what it's worth, this little dealie was painted with 8 colors of Fiebing's spirit dies (no oil dye, no water-based) and finished with Tan-Kote. Lots of other projects get similiar treatment, but this is one of the most "colorful" so I thought one of the better examples for your question ... Oh, yeah ... I should add that while I used 8 shades, the project was intended to include NINE shades, the 9th "color" being the natural leather left showing.