JLSleather

Okay, in the interest of speed, I've thrown this thing at a piece of posterboard. 1.) The first photo will show an outline of the clutch.. The paper is heavy Bristol that I'll paint on until it's filthy and then replace. The rose is a plastic or mylar stencil sheet you can get at about any craft store, and Wild Rose's pattern, somewhere on LW. The movable stencil is half a sheet of paper from the printer where I've drawn and cut 1 ½" half circles. Could have been a little smaller, suggesting finer detail, but too small and it looks "busy". In real time, I would have rubber cemented the clutch to the poster board, since it's getting lined anyway I don't care if it's sticky. Let the cement dry BEFORE stickin' it, or you'll be pulling paper with it (so I've heard). Note the pencil mark on the paper stencil. 2.) This is the "negative" of the movable stencil (which from now on will be MS). It's what you get by holding the MS against the board and blast dye straight at it. 3.) Here, I've started the spray. I put the MS roughly square to the project with the pencil mark lining up with one side and just the "tips" on the project. Spray across the bottoms of the circles heavily, and then go back the other way in "arcs", tapering the color towards the top. The amount of color is up to you; just keep it a bit rich in the bottoms. Then move the MS down "some" - again up to you. This is about 3/8", though nothing is measured. Spray again, the same way. 4.) What it starts to look like. Just "eyeball" the spacing (I think it looks better if they're NOT exact). Note I'm gonna start "bleeding" it off to one side. You could run the design straight through, but I think this looks nicer AND less automated. You see the pencil mark no longer in line with the edge. 5.) The DON'T pic. This is what happens if you spray too much color at once. It builds up on the MS and bleeds to your project. Always "sneak up" on the shade you want. 6.) Still bleeding to the right. Note the tips aren't in line, but you can still see it. This is going to cause the "wander" in the design. Also shows the rough step distance I used. 7.) My butt out of the way so you can see how the entire design bleeds to one side. Basketweave stampers, you know what I'm talking about. You want this to be gradual, and if you keep the last run in the sights, it'll be fine. This one bleeds right only because I'm right handed and trying to stay out of the way. Keep in mind where the bottom is, cuz we're gonna try to get back directly under and in line with the top, without any sudden shifts. 8.) About here, I'm gonna start tapering the shade more. Same color in the bottom "tips", less at the top. Doesn't matter at the design, but I'm keeping in mind that the clutch will have its top fold about here, and this will create the illusion of hi-lite. 9.) Here you'll clearly see the hi-lite I'm talking about. Pay no attention to the gray line across the top, that's a bend in the paper. 10.) I've zipped across the rest just to show some other shades. Note that I "bled" back to the LEFT, gradually. I want to end up pretty much with my pencil mark back on the edge. The red lines added show close. Close is good if you're lacing. You want even closer if you're stitching … if you fold the clutch (the way it will be seen MOST of the time) and it doesn't line up, you'll look like you either didn't know what you were doing or didn't care (so I've heard). 11.) Pull the Mylar rose. That "ratty" look won't happen if you let the cement dry BEFORE stickin' it. Full photos here

Don't follow me TOO far into the ditch, Ron ... you've heard about the blind leading the blind Oh, kin I git ya to use the "reply" button, instead of the "quote" button? THis will be a bit long-winded, and some of the techies will no doubt appreciate it

Lots o' folks asking me about the lazy man's clutch wallet. I have a sick little boy today, so I'm gonna split this in chapters of sorts to let 'im sleep, hope that's okay… Call this the preamble… NEEDED: 3 oz cow 'er calf back (same as "Phoenix" clutch kit, I just don't like their "innards"), mask or stencil of your flower, a piece of paper (steel one from your printer, it'll be fine for one use), The Fiebing's dye was... "background" -- dark brown (full strength) and the rose -- red (not dark red) thinned "about" 6:1 with solvent and the stems/leaves -- mixed "about" 3 parts green, 1 part dark brown, 6 parts solvent. NOTES ON DYES: I say "about" because the stuff is alcohol, and some will no doubt evaporate when the jar is open. Color (sediment/pigment) stays, solvent evaporates, so the more it's open the darker it gets. Couple of hours isn't gonna show alot of change. Maybe if you use the mix a dozen times... and, the browns will come out slower than the lighter colors, and WAY slower than the solvent, so when it changes, it'll be DARKER (and maybe just a little THICKER). I sprayed this, so if you're using a brush, might wanna thin it a bit further. Fiebing's dark brown shows a distinctively reddish tint; more obvious the more it's thinned. I really like this type of effect done in chocolate – which is more brown – but I used the dark brown because I was going to paint red stuff, and I hoped it would "flow" a little better with the overall look. Just a "whatif"… like "whatif" I was gonna do the rose yellow, I mighta used the chocolate … Not all leather is tanned the same, even two hides you ordered from the same place at the same time. Word to the wise, no excuse for not testing your color on a piece of scrap FROM THE HIDE your project is cut from -- might match, might not. In this case, it's a FLOWER and and EFFECT, neither of which was a critical shade. For all these reasons and some others, I only mix about an ounce at a time. Some folks have been asking me if this was done "freehand". Yes and no. I "freehanded" inside the rose, but only after masking the rose and painting the background effect. For some reason, folks get the idea that "good" painters "freehand". Here's the truth … you will NOT get that hard edge by "freehand". Period. For more information on colors/hard edges, I'm gonna refer you to Kate, who is clearly better 'n' me, and who I may have a shot at appeasing with a relatively inexpensive consolation prize Kate …? Kate …? More when Junior is awake and Mom is back, so I kin turn on the compressor. One disclaimer … a quick proofread of this has got me thinkin' the fella what wrote this sounds a bit sensitive, and if'n I met 'im, I ain't sure I'd hang out with 'im …

Hard to vote, since I never buy more than a couple hides at a time. Just don't have the room to store a bunch of stuff. And, I've yet to try the herman oak, though with the reviews it gets around here I intend to (same issue, no point buying more JUST yet). And, I never buy a "C" or "D" (though I have ordered a "B" and GOT a "D"). For the difference in cost, it's just not worth it. A side of low grade stuff, when for an extra $20-30 I coulda got some better stuff, just don't work fer me. But I checked the site, LOVE the holsters. Nice color, nice sheen, purdy stitchin' ...

Clean tension disks, replace bobbin case. Got it. THANKS, everybody!

Found an ID plate, says 16-188 Maybe you can see from the photos, the top side looks like it was OK (if it was done by a child). Back side is good for a biti, then out of nowhere leaves these goofy "loops". Weird, it doesn't do it all the time. Included photo of end of machine, odd chance I threaded wrong.

Wow. Fella kaint say that aint raised ... only way it gets more embossed is you leave the hide on the cow and hit him with bevelers Nice color, too!

Picked up a dinosaur today, well, older than me, anyway. Old singer machine. I got it to the house, plugged it in, fine. Messed with it for a while and got it to stop breaking the top thread every so often. "Tuned" (meaning I poke-n-hoped) 'til I got a decent stitch on both side of the stuff, lockstitch. BUT, maybe it's normal, and maybe I have one or more worn parts. I stitch, adjust needle tension, and it's fine. I stop. When I start again, maybe it's fine, and maybe it's not. GUESSING that my tension adjustment hadn't worked it's way out yet? Question is, where do I start to troubleshoot? I'm not totally ignorant of machine stitching ... most of my shirts have some. And there was that class in high school (30 years ago) where I managed to get into a class with me and 30 girls (not conducive to sewing lessons for a teenage boy). I ain't sure of the model, told it's a Singer series 16. I know the thread is a 69 (which MIGHT be correct for wallet/clutch liners). And, if somebody around here knows stuff, I'll take a photo of the stitching if that helps. Oh, yeah ... one of those runs across some 4 oz veggie leather, it wanted to curl UPWARD. Is this (guessing again) INsuffcient tension at needle, EXcessive tension at bobbin ... something else?????

Used to be a book around, think it was like "Projects and Designs" or something like that. Might have been volume 2. Had a handbag in there they called Leisure Times. Paypal same day if anyone has it.

You'd think I could do this in my sleep. Back in the day, I made a black basketweaved belt with a velcro closure for a cop for his uniform (apparently, he was tired of taking off his belt to go through the metal detector). Course, his buddies saw it and I had to make 10 more. Then they all needed those little badge-shaped belt-worn key holders, and about half of them wanted matching wallets. Then he's got buddies who are cops in another place ... While I like that basketweave look - even in black - enough was enough. Didn't touch it much at all for years. No template, just start "whacking" and it came out right. Then just recently I went to basketweave part of that checkbook, and ended up picking my nose I was at a Tandy store last week, took a look at those embossed belts, maybe just do that, should be painless. But I hate the idea that when you cut the length - there goes your border. Just doesn't look right, much less professional. So, a little basketweave brush-up... soon as I get these bags done. THANKS AGAIN, ART!

About 20-something years ago there was a doodle page about basketweave tools and their angles. Been irritating me for days... anybody got that one? I'll burn the town of your choice ... no, scratch that ... I'll BUY it.

I like that mottled effect, too, but your best work is those little cheeks in the next photo

That's a GOOD photo of a CLEAN belt. NICE. One suggestion, when you're taking pictures like this (which I really like), wipe the smudge from the buckle (note signature)

Just received another order from the Leather GUy. Listed on supplier page. Just givin' these folks a "attaboy", some folks outta Minnesota with some gorgeous linings. Four types of skins from them, all of them very nice and very reasonably priced. Thought some of the other kids might wanna know ... Still looking for a steady supplier of quality chrome tanned for bilfold / clutch linings. This stuff is great looking, but a bit heavy (my wife wants a purse out of the "distressed" brown 3 oz cow side) for small projects. NOTE: Whatever I use should not have "pig" anywhere in the name

Sorry, I was working today and a bit "out there". I should maybe have added that I generally run a V-groover down the cut first, then open it further with the F-edger. Sorry

Wow, open that site (Monica) and there's a single holster in yer face (NICE). Good even tone, good color, nice stitching.... sue-weett. I DO know what you mean, WW ... I have a few craftaids, but I try to make each one a little different. I wonder if some folks realize just how many patterns they really have. Oh, well, that's another topic, and you've covered this one well. THANKS!

Generally do this by hand, but here's something comes to mind ... set the project on something clean that's about 1/32" taller than the border (2mm should do it) and fits inside of it. This "jack" gives you a solid surface to skive on without smashing the border (just a thought, but a piece of thin plywood or waferboard should do it AND be easy to cut). Then - if your skive is a long one, a straight edge and a couple of C-clamps should do it (maybe a piece of the plywood leftovers under the clamp).

This is an issue with me. Had a guy here about a week ago, looked through some of my stuff. Holding a new bilfold wallet, he looked at me with pleasant surprise and said "And it looks FINISHED. It don't even look like crafts". Too many "crafters" seem to think if you bash it a bit with a stamp (and maybe add some lace and/or beads) then it's "crafted" and somehow worth about 15 times what it cost in materials. End result, much of the "outside" thinks it's SUPPOSED to look like you dragged it behind your truck. I would have thought that comparing my work next to some others' would be my best advertising. Yeah, I know that's arrogant, but if I didn't think I was doing it right, I'd do it different. I'm not kidding ... some of this stuff makes me wonder -- WHAT DID THAT COW EVER DO TO YOU? I'm always trying to improve ... it's not that I think I'm doing it all flawlessly , just that some of what I see is THAT bad. But, truth is, quality means little alot of the time. I've seen (LOTS) times where a very nice, attractive, functional leather item has been passed over to get at a rough-looking, clearly inferior product. In fact, there's the point ... they appeared to want the "crafty" one. Lace with frayed edges, plated tin buckles, heavy applications of acrylic dyes, etc ... Now, long as I'm on that line, I want to just say that because the items are selling - does NOT equal quality. I could go on (and on) but here's a couple of short examples to make that point ... The guy who "invented" the "pet rock" ... $millions The guy who came up with "Got milk?" .... $millions SpongeBob SquarePants ... yeah, we all know that one ...

Putting in all the receipts ... just under $4k for leathercraft stuff since 1/1/2010. $900 truck to pick it up in.

Yep, it looks good. Do you use a modeler? Think a bit of rounding ('speshly on the stems) would make it look even better. What color ya goin' with?

Agreed. While I've not personally built a saddle, I do have a pretty good idea of the time and work that goes into those things. My brother's brother in law had a leather shop in Houston for quite a spell. Personally, I wouldn't know at a glance the difference between a roper and a wade ... but now that I've been kicked in the pants a bit (no offense taken) you can bet I'll find out (at which time I'll be back to personally thank any and all saddle builders who lit that fire under me). You are right, of course, when you say I don't understand the situation. This is why I used general facts about this TYPE of case, blended with just the right amount of humor about the following side of my wife Make no mistake, because I haven't built a saddle doesn't mean I can't appreciate them. In fact, my whole leathercraft CAUSE is making attractive items that have a PURPOSE (I like "pretty" stuff, but I like to see it get used). Guy has the drive, the artistic talent, and the desire to build a saddle has earned some respect. No mistake that I use the term saddle BUILDER. Please take no offense at any of my comments, I meant only to clarify and help. One of you boys (n girls) finds my comments at all objectionable, feel free to invite Johanna to this written permission to delete them, no offense taken.

Preface this next thing with a clear statement that I know leather, and leather craft, and leather workers, but have never made a saddle (of any type or style). I do know something about the legal system. I'm not from Texas, but I think the laws are pretty standard (though not universal). Now, that said, with the understanding that the boss lady reserves the right to delete it and the saddle boys (n girls) are not s'posedta sock me in the eye ... A photograph that is placed on the internet which has no copyright or patent rights is "public domain". Don't know of anywhere you can be prosecuted for copying what is clearly not "private". A sick spouse (or one whose backside has been altered through the years) is no defense for anything. Anywhere. If you stole from me to feed your kids, I just might forgive it, but not defend it. Deliberate misrepresentation of an item for sale is fraud just about anywhere. But to prosecute, you may need to prosecute in the state where the fraud happened. This is likely to be a civil matter as well, but a fella would have to show that actual damage occurred (ie, I lost these sales, I had to pay these fees, ...). I would have thought Ebay would want to NOT be involved in this, though you can bet with the amount of money that goes through there they have plenty of their own lawyers. It is possible that one or more of these attorneys has told them NOT to act. Here's the deal... A guy posts a photo of an item. Someone else says - hey, that's my item and he has no right to it. Ebay doesn't know, and to remove a listing without actual knowledge may give the appearance of taking sides, even though they'd rather not. Ebay members don't seem to have a preference. I've seen some "leathercraft" on there where the best "feedback" I could give is to manage not to puke. And it sells anyway. And I'm sure that there are plenty of those who, if you could prove the item is stolen, would buy it anyway if it's what they want and they could be persuaded thy can get away with it. It becomes, then, a matter of personal integrity. Which is not prosecutable or actionable. If the photo was copied, I doubt there's much that can be done, unless someone went in to your shop to photograph it. If the PRODUCT was stolen that's another matter. Upon receipt of evidence of that, Ebay would become a "conspirator", a "party", and equally liable for any damages. On the other hand, I don't know of any laws which would prevent someone from copying and posting one of my photos and saying "It's one LIKE this".

Yep, each his own. I prefer the computer myself ... no light table to store or maintain, patterns take up no space at all (and are always in order), and if it ever gets worn out I just print another one.

I like that much better. One step further with the lines you reversed ... when you cut the design, make the lines you changed PART OF the foremost petal ... Instead of this ... This .... And maybe a little wider, to help with the illusion that it's closer, so that you have this ... Or, short version, something like this ..

Welcome. Glad to see this relatively expensive software earning it's keep! Let me know if I can help in the future