JLSleather

Ordered ONE side of the W & C, we'll see what we get. As I explained to that very personable lady, I'm really more interested in a very BLEACHED natural color more than worried about an occasional scar or brand. I like to keep the color options WAY open.

Thanks, Dwight ... you're not the first to recommend Weaver. Might have to give them a try ... always good to have another source. I've got a dozen belts coming up, would you recommend the shoulders or the sides (I need about 50")?

Free is good, and friends are even better My experience with suppliers, for what it's worth ... I ordered from Springfield exactly 3 times ... it wasn't good. I had paid for two orders I wasn't happy with, shipping on all of it, and a "membership". I called them up, got a lady who actually laughed (and then caught herself) when I told her we need some other plan than me spending money on stuff I can't use and spending my time on the phone. I ordered one more time. No improvement, and I figured 3 times and 2 calls was enough opportunity for them to get it right. I have purchased leather from Tandy, but I ALWAYS go to the store. One recent trip, in a stack of 20 hides I found ONE I would use. So, I just go pick it out myself. The folks at S-T Leather have been good, though, never any problems. I don't know how they are about returns, because in 25 years I've never had to return anything. In St. Louis, MO, on the web here, '800' phone number top of the first page. They're the only one I've found so far with REAL service. Shipping is never cheap these days, and it's the same at S-T, but at least you know you're not paying $15-20 shipping to get some stuff you won't be happy with. One more note about that ... I've never cared for "kits", but if you use them S-T has them at FAR less money than Tandy.

You didn't say what's wrong with it Dried out? The leather can be brought back like any other, but oils / conditioners are easier to apply from the grain side (or maybe that's just the way I'm used to). Leather is leather, whether it's facing north or south.

I personally never understood the "practice" leather thing. Here's the deal ... If you tool bad leather, you'll get used to tooling bad leather. Just like if you're going to learn to play the piano, you wouldn't "practice" on a piece of junk, because your fingers will get used to the cheap keys and your ears will get used to the cheap sound. When you hear the real thing, doesn't sound right. Use a decent piece of leather to "practice". If it works out well, you have a good start on a finished product. If you don't like it, then you're out - what ' $1.50??? And you can still "practice" your coloring on this "ruinied" piece. Example: One side of 3/4 oz runs $125, and cuts roughly 70 men's wallets (the size most craftaids are made). Do the math and ya got less than $2 apiece in it. Say you don't like it. But now you have THAT experience, and you can try to color it. Don't like that either? Then color it again ... darker color(s). Or maybe you re-color one side, and try a finish you're wanting to try out on the other end. STILL out less than $2. Once yo get 'up n running', you'll most likely realize that those kits really aren't the way to go anyway.

A couple of thoughts from a northern boy who is often shoved in a corner (5 kids). I have one room, which I can lock to keep the little people away from knives and chemicals. For storing leather, grab 2-3 of those little clips used to hold the edge of a tarp. They will clamp on any thickness of leather - lets you HANG the leather on a wall. This is a plus for being able to see what you have AND space, and keeps the leather free of wrinkles/stains from laying flat or rolling up. NOTE: Do not hang in direct sunlight, or hang FACING wall. My work table has 6 drawers. Sewing / lacing in one, coloring tools in another, etc. Cutting patterns hang on the walls. Eliminate multiple tables .... use your tooling bench for coloring by covering with removable stuff -- a piece of masonite works well. When done coloring, stand the masonite against the wall behind the table. It's $4-5 a sheet and will last a LONG time, even if one side is used for cutting. Or, a fold-up table used just for coloring and cutting ... doesn't need to be all that sturdy if you aren't tooling there ... I don't like those kits, either ... too much money and too little quality (which is nicer than saying they're cheap junk). I squirm when I buy a side, too .... I know I'm getting 5-7 feet of belly (if I was doing saddle seats, for example, that would be fine). Most of the time I use double shoulders ... fairly economical cutting compared to other cuts (there's always SOME waste, but minimal). Plexiglass makes great cutting patterns. Stores easily (drill a hole in one corner of each piece for that project, tie 'em together with a piece of heavy thread, hang the thread from a nail, picture hanger, door knob, drawer pull). And you can see through it to see the leather you'll get frm the cut (I like the stuff tinted a bit with lavender, seems my eyes see well through that without glare). Wow ... this was alot longer than I intended ...

Always somebody wanting to help ... if you're writing a check I think the trend these days is to "partner" with Tandy [and some others] and give "classes" at $50 - $500 a whack, which they split. Or make a DVD. Or write a book. Same thing, really ... supposed to look "professional", but in the end it's just another hustle. I've seen some "classes" where you should be learning what NOT to do. And some of them are actually quite GOOD at it, but have decided the money is better (or easier) to talk than to craft. I'm always getting asked about how I did this or that, so I've been thinking about some simple instruction pieces. No DVDs, simply not necessary. But I'm almost caught up to the point where I can make a few basic items with enough pause in there to take some still shots and later write a .pdf file I can send to anyone who wants it. As in free. Meantime, if you have a specific question ... or need a particular cutting pattern (long as it's mine)...

Still looking ... anybody??

VERY NICE And that from a guy who don't even carry a purse! Really .... lovely ...

From a "Weaver" point of view (or anybody else who sells hides AND finished goods), the hides they sell is only another of their "products". On the other hand, the guy has a point. Your competition and your supplier is the same guy ... so ... you have retail price on materials, they're paying tannery price. You're paying WAY more in shipping a few hides at a time than they are for a rail car or truck load. And if they have a "cash flow" issue, they can get you to fix it for them (?????). In the end, all you can do is decide if what you want is worth the price they're asking - and then buy it or don't.

I'm the OTHER guy ... meaning I LIKE some color, but have never cared for even the IDEA of coasters But I will say that I've always thought you had a talent for design, and I'm always impressed with your use of color. [Yet another] attractive piece :)

I use Fiebing's spirit dyes - think you could get that shade with either the british tan OR the mahogony (or the oil dye "saddle tan"). For reference, the pic at left is done with Fiebing's red (not "dark red") and dark brown with reducer (which is NOT the same as the medium brown).

Not so! You paid money for it, and shipping isn't free either. This craftaid in usable condition gotta be worth $10

A couple thoughts ... from a guy who admits I haven't made a holster in quite a while ... That looks more like a 5/32" or 3/16" lace. - some of the old folks pro'lly bought it called "Florentine" lace. Don't know why the natural color lace isn't used so much any more ... I've always liked that look. Should be able to do that with a set of dividers (which will scribe a guideline for the lacing AND mark the stitch spacing. Then it depends on the look you want ... I would have spaced the stitches just a little farther apart (though i like this way too). Slits can be made with a punch or a nipper. I prefer the nipper for this type of thing ... doesn't "rock" the project when punching. I'm probably overly cautious, but I like to see 'em stitched myself. I like a well-made holster, but in the end their PURPOSE is to contain, protect, and enhance the GUN. The thread will last longer than the very best lace and will be stronger. If you want to keep this look, you could easily stitch it half way between the edge and the lacing line, then keep the tight lace spacing and "conceal" the stitches. Keep in mind that Tandy is as bad as any of them ... take a $3 item and advertise it for $30 for a year - then "sale" it at $21 and try to tell you what a "deal" you're getting, hoping you'll forget it's a $3 item. One thing worth the time and money there, though, ... spend a few bucks and get Stohlman's "How to Make Holsters" book. Doesn't cover every model or method, but will give you all the information you need to start mkaing holsters and designing your own - short and sweet version on tools needed, too (one of the few things Tandy has worth owning).

As Clay notes, there are LOTS of different types of trees. Alas, I don't have those books any more, though they contain lots of good information and techs that I still use. Depends on the type of tree and the size you want, just what technique you'll want to use. Since you mention wallets, here's a couple showing varied styles/types ...

Yeah, times do change, I s'pose. I used to buy ALL my leather down there when it was The Leather Factory (BEFORE it became "Tandy Leather Factory"). Mail ordered it all, with never a problem. Gotta wonder, though, which of those hides they woulda sent if I wasn't there to pick it out myself. Top 1 or two hides on each pallet had BOOT PRINTS, like we just go ahead and walk across it when it's convenient. Several hides down had INK, like the square footage markings from the hide UNDER that one wasn't dry, and leached onto the next one. So, I didn't think I was "crying" .. but in case I was, at least I know it'll be the last time Oh, I've never paid $11+, either ... I left those at the store The one I bought was a little over $6/ft but ... sadly ... I couldn't find another one in the 8/9 oz pile I was willing to use. For my money ... Springfield Tandy

Just back from the Tandy store in Des Moines. Looked around a good bit ... amazing how the stuff just keeps getting cheaper and cheaper quality - and the price just keeps going up. Recently been to the Tandy stores in St Paul and Bloomington, MN, too ... same deal. In the end, I picked up ONE double shoulder (I wouldn't ordiinarily waste a trip for just one) as it was the only one in a stack of about 20 that I would give money for. I did see one other GOOD hide down there, but at over $11.00 a foot I'm thinking the stuff should carve itself. Oh, well .... guess I'll save the money for the wholesale club renewal that would have been coming up... Now, to find a rational supplier before it gets where I need it NOW ...

Years ago I had this one, and haven't seen it since someone thought they needed it worse than I did. Good money paid (PayPal) if somebody has that old craftaid template and wants to not have it Must have been in the 80's ???

That's just purdy!

You should be purdy close to that color just by oiling with Neatsfoot oil. But if you're not satisfied with that, I would thin out some Fiebing's buckskin dye.