JLSleather

Measurements coming shortly, and some pics. I know the skirting is easily belt length (I was making weightlifing belts for some young, HEALTHY fellas). More info in a few ...

Got some issues, going to keep me from working leather for the next few months. I'll be listing some of the "perishables" for sale - all great materials, but stuff I don't want sitting around for the next few months. I'll start it off here with a not that I have AT LEAST 20 spools of quality leather lace that I will be listing in the $10/spool range. ALL this lace is leather - mostly calf but a few spools of goat lace. Photos later today as I get a bit more organized. Will also be listing good quality tooling leather in 4/5, 6/7, 8/9, and a bit of 13 (skirting). All good leather, just don't want it siting for months. Yes, I could list all of this on Ebay, but I really don't LIKE that place. Much rather see it go to someone who can appreciate it, and i'd rather sell it for a bit less than to pay Ebay for ,... well, whatever it is they think they should get paid for. If you have specific items you are needing, DO ask, as I may have it. Oh, just an example, I know I have at least one TOO MANY Paasche VL airbrushes ...

General rule is half the thickness of the leather. This one is in 3/4, as are a good many small projects.

Not sure why a fork truck is not an option, unless it's in a spot the fork cant get to (?). Assuming there's a solid floor under it, I'd probably build a pallet to suit it. You still have to get it up on there, but I'd want to have the pallet anyway. Can you get a "cherry picker" up to it? Put casters on the pallet, with locking wheels on at least one end, and leave it on the pallet (?). Worst case ... I've heard guys talking about having to disassemble a machine to move it ...

This TYPE of thing has been discussed, well, certainly since before I was born! So, the attached pic shows 3 straps, I'll let them make their own point. All three straps carved with the SAME design, cut from the SAME piece of leather, and colored with shades of dye all from the SAME bottle. You decide which of these was done with the 1/4" angled blade, which with the 3/8" straight blade, and which with the 1/2" straight.

Guess I'm in the wrong business, or maybe I just read that wrong. You ordered TWICE, they were late both times, one back order and one sent wrong stuff, two appologies in two orders, ... and you're HAPPY? Well, okay ...

Oh, and for moisture traps, I like the 'in-line" version. You can get a separator that will plug right into the compressor, but they tend to work better if they are a bit away from the compressor (the air is cooling as it gets away from the tank) and right on the gun causes you to have to paint while manuvering the weight of the filter. So, I have one that cuts right into the hose. Oh, yeah ... I think with either of these models you would need a voltage adaptor to use it upside down (in Sydney) but then this isn't intended to be an endorsment of a particular model, just to let you know the rating you'll want.

You need to be aware of a few things before you shop, and maybe the first thing to know is that you DON'T need to spend that much money. In fact, for $200 (U.S.) you should be able to get the compressor AND the airbrush. There are people LINED UP to sell you an "airbrush compressor" for $200. Good to remember, it's only $200 because it says "airbrush compressor". Translated into U.S. English, that means... a small (usually table-top) piece of cheap junk with a fitting on it that matches most airbrush hoses which will shake/rattle/roll for MAYBE a year before it disintegrates (though the 2nd 6 months will be a headache). Do yourself a big favor .. get a real compressor and spend the $4-5 to get a hose adaptor. So, what you ACTUALLY need is something that will blow: up to about 25-30 pounds (not sure what that is in Newtons, sorry). Most of your work you'll probably want about 15 lbs. This is how MUCH it compresses. 2-2.5 CFM at 30 lbs (which about any compressor will do). Cubic Feet per Minute is how FAST it compresses And you'll get better results (more even pressure) if you get one with a tank and a regulator. I bought this one on sale at Menard's ... for $150 it came with two finish nail guns. Extra $5 for the right hose connection. But I turn it on and it runs for like a few minutes, then set at just under 20 lbs it'll spray for an hour before it kicks on again for a few seconds. And it fits under the table. It's a bit loud, but like I said it runs for a few minutes an hour...

Oh, yeah ... FLAT on the stone, whatever you sharpen .. One more "tip" some folks use ... grind a flat spot on the handle of the awl (if there isn't one already) in line with one of the longer flat sides of the awl blade. Helps you keep it properly aligned when stitching, and helps keep it from rolling off the table when ya aint

Nothing to add about the knife beveler, don't believe I've ever used one. But the awl problem is one I'm familiar with. I'm old (ish) so I remember when you could use a tool right off the shelf. I guess now somebody's lawyer decided it's better to make you sharpen it yourself So, your diamond blade is just that ... 4-sided. You'll need SOME type of stone. You can probably pick up a stone that is "hard" on one side and "soft" on the other for 3-4 bucks ... almost anywhere. In any hardware store in your area, ask them about an "Arkansas" stone. I just replaced one I use (they're not indestructible). The "soft" side is for general sharpening, like your blade is damaged, and the "hard" side is finer, and for polishing and keeping an edge once it's sharp. Very simple to do, just make sure you have the flat side of the diamond down on the stone. If you allow it to "rock", you'll round the edge and defeat the purpose of the sharpening. Seriously, there are places that will HOPE you'll pay $60-100 for some fancy-looking setup, but all you need is a ROCK ... and you might get one large enough that once you're going you can use the same stone to care for straight knives, head knives, swivel knives, etc.... This one works good, and it helps further to find something to put it in ... like a tupperware bowl, or anything you can lay it in. Drop the stone in, put some honing oil about 1/4 of the way up the stone (so if you have a lid, that's good, too). The oil will keep the stone oiled, keep the steel "bits" from clogging the stone. This isn't necesssary (the stone will work without oil, or you can just put a few drops of oil on the stone when you're ready to use it) but it does help. http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAKA=399-6790&PMPXNO=940515&PARTPG=INLMK3

It LOOKS like you're talkng about a gouge. Available in "V" or "U" shapes, for making tight folds. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/31811-00.aspx

In the last year I've been IN the Tandy stores in Des Moines, IA and Bloomington and St.Paul MN. The MN stores were physically smaller, but the same items. I get what I need there, but I will never buy one of those "Craftsman" sides (well, if they were GIVING it away and I needed a new mat for the back door ...). The Royal Meadow 3/4 is about $150/side, which I think is normal for leather that carves and dyes nicely. At S-T Leather (St. Loius) I usually call them, though it seems to go OK if I just email them an order. Springfield hasn't got ANY of my money for right at 2 years. I ordered there 3 times, and wasn't happy with any of my orders. The W/C sides I've bought were alright ( i got a decent product at a fair price).

Probably nobody badmouths Tandy as well as I do. On the other hand, I DO like their 3/4 oz "royal meadow" tooling cow. I don't know what they do differently in the tanning, but it makes for a very rich feeling, very flexible wallet carving back. Tools nice, and dyes extremely well. Great light color, too. I ALWAYS go to the store and pick out the pieces I want, and I think that helps. But with the "wholesale" pricing I save about $50 per side, which is defiinitely worth it to me.

That's what I thought you were asking, but the fact is it matters how far you want the gun to "drop". The length is pretty easy to adjust, after all. It's not uncommon to see a 4" wide belt cut out of a 7" wide strip, to allow the skirt of the holster to be strung through the slot, rather than spanning the belt portion itself. If you don't want a drop, or aren't concerned about the flare (which can be built into the skirt of the holster if you prefer), then I don't think I've ever seen a "formula" for the width of the "blank" strip. This is because with the same amount (degree) of curve, a larger waist size will curve FARTHER (though not "steeper"). As a rule, when I made these I fitted a pattern on the guy they were going to be worn on. Pattern made out of butcher paper - which comes on a roll, with one side "waxy" so it moves easily and one side that allows you to write on it with a pencil. Yes, it's a bit of a pain in the backside, but you insure that it will ride where the guy wants it to. Oh, yeah, is your belt a single rig or double? Two sides hang the same distance? One pattern I found for roughly that waist size requires a 9" wide "strip", but like I said it matters how low you want the steel slung.

That looks good! (though a bit more stitchin' than I care to do )

Line belts, or make "pads" for straps on rifle slings, shoulder bags, or stiffeners for larger items (flat bottom handbags or portfolios which are being lined anyway).

Check your alignment FIRST! If you bring the press down on steel blocks and it's crooked, you could end up with some really NOT fun results!

Oh, THAT kind of press One more thing, then. Before you go checking the corner heights, I would check to make sure all the bolts on the cylinder and the guides are tight. Yeah, I know that sounds silly, but I'd still check ...

Angie - If your die is cutting deeper on one end, then you have an alignment issue. Either your die is taller at one end, or the bed isn't square with the ram, or the top plate is welded out of square. You can check this by dropping the die close to the work, then measure the distance between the top plate and the bed (or in this case, your "board"). If it's not the same distance in all corners, you can [fairly] easily fix this. STEP !) Measure the die itself. If it's not the same height all around, have a machine shop grind the BACK (non-cutting) side of the die so it's parallel. STEP 2) Once the die is parallel, place a block in each corner of the bed, same height. Set the top plate ON the blocks. Slowly lower the ram of the press. If it doesn't contact all 4 blocks together, something is crooked. Most reliable way to fix this is to cut the weld, position the ram down on the die (with it still on the blocks) and re-weld. NOTE: You could have a machine shop make sure that the attaching piece is square with the face of the die, but if th eproblem is in the press bed OR the ram itself, this will not solve the issue. This sounds like a bit of doing, but it can probably be done in the time it took me to type all of this Oh, yeah ... I see you were talking about "hand crank" ing the press. I should maybe wait for the pics, but does your press include a big screw on the ram?

If you're cutting 24" pieces, I don't think those models are what you're looking for. If it's just a matter of the cutting issues you're talkiing about, how about a dial guage or pressure limit switch? If you have a cutting board under the leather (or over, depending on which way you're cutting), then a dial would tell you how much the pressure needs to be to cut, and how much the pressure is when it's "through". Should be able to set your ram to "cut out" when you're through the leatherr ... OR (where is my brain today???) you could bolt a steel block on the press bed (preferably, one in each corner to keep the ram balanced) so that it goes just into the mat, but won't go any further. Gives you a reliable "stop" point ...

I hadn't seen that video, until now. Apparently, technical specs at tippman means you can cut little booties out of 6/8 leather, but not very fast. Oh, that's the 1500 model ...

Does the size of the platten work for the parts you're cutting? Assume that leather has a shear strength of about 3 tons (there is a lot of difference in what leather you use). Simplified, the pressure you need is 1.5 times the length of the cut times the thickness of the leather. For example, you're cuting a strap 1" wide, 12" long, with a .5 radius on each end, in 8 ounce veg leather. Length of the cut is roughly 26", and the thickness is .125". So the pressure needed is (26) x (1.5) x (.125) = 4.8 tons. As a rule, a clicker die is tapered and will allow for a bit of a shearing effect (like scissors, not all the pressure all at once). IF I remember right, you'll want to stay at 80% (or less) of the capacity of the machine. For that Tippman, 80% is about 5.6 tons. Thinner leather will take less force, and a dull die will take more force. It's sad that the Tippmann site doesn't offer any help in the technical area on this equipment. I personally don't like this setup due to the height limitation of the press. That's long-winded so I won't bore you with all of that. Basically, if you're cutting 30" OR LESS in leather that is 8 OUNCE OR LESS and your part is not more than 12" long, you're probably fine. OH, YEAH ... that 30" is roughly a 9.5" circle.

Before you head to Ebay and get issues (the same or other), here's a couple of quick tips ... Shipping to Canada is WAY more money than US. And, since you deal with lawyers I think it's a federal offense to report merchandise to customs as a gift (NAFTA or not).

http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leatherguide/leatherguide.aspx This is right from the Tandy online site. Temper this with the fact that not everyone's "8 oz" is exactly the same. Always a good idea to stand there looking at the leather you're buying (period). Rule is, an "ounce" is 1/64" thickness. So, 8/9 oz SHOULD be in the 1/8" range. The piece I'm currently cutting belts from actually measures .144, which is about right (8-9 "ounce" is .125-.140).