JLSleather

Don't forget to consider the tools you already have. For cutting out leather, a $3 utility knife is as good as anything for puting a straight edge on a hide, and a $10 x-acto set cuts curves nicely.

CT -- The X-1 is a 'medium" brown leather stain, used to be put out by Drake's. Strange that they would use it in a video, but I don't see it listed on their site for sale??

Tough to tell from such a small photo, but it looks like the design was cut [only] and painted black with a brush. The 'effect' you are seeing is from the residue in the black dye transferring to the natural (undyed) portion of the leather. Actually, this is quite rough, and likely the result of either inexperience or disregard. Likely incidental, not planned. You could do this, but the odds of duplicating it are astronomical. There's the critique. My own personal opinion, I think it looks 'dirty', and I don't like it. Someone else may, though, I mean, they sold a lot of pet rocks!

I think most of the old handbag patterns you'll find recommend - and many of those kits come with - 6/7 oz, but do not use a lining leather. I like to use 4/5 oz veg tanned for the smaller bags, lined with a 2 oz chrome tanned leather - resulting in about a 7 oz total. The large bags you might go a little heavier. These weights give you a bag that is flexible, but still stands on it's own and retains it's shape. The 4/5 will allow good deep tooling.

Tuck-tite clasp? http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/department/hardware/11507-00.aspx

There are probably hundreds of ways to get that effect. But, from the photos, and a rough guess, I'd say that was done with at least two colors (and possibly a third) and applied with a sponge.

Looks like out of stock, Kate. Try this one, page 15 (better pricing, too). http://stleather.com/

Hey Rob, Merry Christmas yourself! I'm gonna step outta the way in a minute for to make room for someone more experienced with saddle work. But I did want to say that I appreciate a fella who can recognize and admit his mistakes, learn from them and determine to work toward correcting them. Good post, and I love the color and the smooth look!

Not sure just what 'orangey' is, but I'd try a bit of green. Note that the green is quite loud by itself, so just a bit.

This , of course, is why Mike is the ambassador. WAY more diplomatic than I would have been - thanks, Mike!

I think you call this one a [hard] lesson learned. The stuff he sold you was 1.) not what you asked for, and 2.) not acceptable even for what he claimed it was. Twin Oaks has some good information for you, so I won't repeat all of that. Best advice, get some decent tooling leather - and leave that guy out of your craft. If the pictures are close to what you are actually seeing, that guy should have paid YOU for taking out his trash. For anyone wishing to learn the craft, either as a hobby or an enterprise, do not listen to those who tell you this rough stuff is "good for practice". Leather crafting requires practice, but bad practice is worse than none.

Actually, what you're doing IS the accepted method - you're right! If you aren't happy with the result you are getting, you could cut it a little high and finish it with coarse sand paper. If you're doing dozens or hundreds of these, a guy could tilt the table of a belt or disc sander to a 45 deg angle, though this seems extreme if you're only talking about a few pieces. When making these bevels, it may be beneficial to cut to just above the bottom of the leather (leave just a small 'flat' on the bevel). It won't matter to your sewing, and you won't have that feather edge to contend with.

Here's a pic showing SOME of 'em, and I know that 2540 is a 3/4" alphabet, and 2181 is an old belt design. Posted for anybody who finds it helpful ...

For short borders, try a plastic triangle or template. This will give you a straight edge while allowing you to see the leather underneath. Also, since it's not metal it won't stain the wet leather. For longer borders, such as on belts, use a creaser.

Did she say she has plastic and rubber on TOP of the rock? Throw the plastic off to the side, put the rubber UNDER the rock, should be easier tooling AND quiet times. Steppin' out the way now ...

Sweet! Free is good. And, yes, creaser.

piece of sand paper wrapped around a sanding block or a block of wood should do it

How many stamps, and what size? As a leather crafter, I would want to see the impression it makes in leather. If they're fairly small - say smaller than 2" x 2", I'd just take a piece of leather, scribe a visible 'grid' on it, and make the impression with the stamp beside it. Do these stamps have a handle? Punch holes in the leather next to the impression the size of the stamp and insert it so it stays facing UP. If you want to get away from "awefull and amateurish", I don't think $10 worth of leather would be "wasted".

I punch right on the tooling block, with a piece of heavy leather scrap under the project. That same piece of scrap can be used for testing the dye color.

If the table you're using to cut is solid, just cover it with 1/8" or 1/4" masonite. Comes in 4'x8' sheets, won't dull your tools, lightweight so it's easy to replace. Should have a chunk in any building material store. Most places will sell ya a half sheet (4'x4') if that's easier to transport. Just drop a small screw in each corner so it don't move on ya, back em out when it needs replacin'. Less than$10, likely.

Blot it much as you can .. and wait.

Oh, is that little lever in the middle supposed to be up like that?

Strap and video both nicely done. Left-handed awl threw me off fer a minute, otherwise great!

Is the thread balled up behind the bobbin pushing it out? I'm no sewing machine tech, but try this site ... http://www.devicemanuals.com/productsupport/Singer_211G166_manual.html