JLSleather

Matter which way on the color?

Yep, that's it, though I think they re-numbered it since back when. But, since yer fixin' ta use cloth, a plastic template maybe not so useful? Let me know how you gonna put the letters in (dye, paint, applique, whatever) and I'll make the lettering to suit (including sizin' the rascal). Total investment .. oh, let's say - free.

We can't tell how wet your leather is without pictures, but these "push bevelers" have been used for decades. Some folks have made wood or plastic grips to make them easier to use, some are made to fit in a swivel knife, etc. The ones I've seen are smooth faced, and I'm guessing that a heavy texture on the face would make it a bit tough to push (plus destroying the texture you were trying to achieve).

DISCLAIMER: I'm NOT the sewing machine guy, and I don't own a Cobra machine. I think the Artisan is older than 5 years, though that may be long as that guy has had it. Don't see many of those around here, but it's comparable to the Consew 206, which can be had for $700 (ish). I paid $950 for the whole set-up, complete with manual, thread stand, lamp, half a dozen pounds of thread in a couple sizes I would use, about 70-80 needles in a few different sizes , etc .... including brought to my house and set in place. I'm admittedly cheap, but unless he's offering all of that, on a machine that sews well and looks good, and is taking about $700 ... I'd probably just get the Cobra 18, which is the same type deal, comes NEW with everything you need, and belongs to the same guy you got the other one from. That also comes with a $1600 price tag, and some shiping I'd guess, so there's that. I don't know those boys at Leather Machine, but seems like there's osmething to be said for ONE guy to deal with if you have problems of need supplies, ASSUMINg that you're happy with the Class4.

The overstitch wheels you see are quite handy, but will not cover every application. Perhaps the most OBvious question to answer your question ... what will you stitch? I got comfortable with an awl early on. Seen it in a book, and looked like it made sense. Later I saw some 'chisels', and some 'irons', and some 'punches', none of which looked like they would be worth beans for stitchin' 45° miter corners ...

Yep, that sounds like pretty good advice. Also sounds like you state your opinion pretty well, so likely you n yer buddy can work it out ("its for a friend but have to draw the line on something"). Personally, I don't really even discuss with people who charge by the hour. Don't even really listen to their "reasoning". Seriously, to pay by the hour means the SLOWer guy makes MORE, and I just won't REWARD a fella fer bein' slow. Nope.

That was a sketch 'thing' from the 80's. Back of one of the Stohlman books (I 'THINK" the "TOP 20" wallet book). Thinking that ended up as a 'craftaid' template, too, but couldn't find it in my junk ... Pic in a minute ...

Got it. Thanks!

Yes, I know it's old. Anyone still have the pattern for these? The CUTTING pattern, not the carving design.

A shoulder that is very rectangular in shape might cut you 15-20 straps from a shoulder (12-14 feet size). But for that price, you'll likely do better with a side of H.O -- which is $8.23/ft at http://www.goligerleather.com/index.html

Your machine may handle heavier thread (you didn't say what you bought) but 69 thread is NOT for holsters. You might get away with 138 on the gun BELT.

I can empathize. We had a fire in 1993 (and a break-in in 2005). It sucks, I know, but the 'toys' can be replaced. I'd like to have back the photos of some of the old work, but we had copies of the old pictures of the babies (in another location). Everyone here was safe both times, we just lost 'stuff'. In the end, it does give some perspective -- reminder that it's just 'stuff'. The wife goes on about how much she loves our current house, but honestly it looks like some bricks and some sticks to me -- just not the real issue. I know it sucks, and I'm not trying to make light of it. Naked I came into this world ... My wife says that as a conversationalist, I'm a pretty fair leatherworker. Just know that I meant well

As a rule, you're right. Once you start carving, you want to NOT re-wet the leather. This is not always possible, or practical, and you do what you have to do (pretty tough to carve on a formed holster). For your carving, the moisture content is very important, but you cannot get it 'too' wet -- you'll just have to wait longer before you start carving. Where possible, you might form, then carve as the leather reaches the right 'humidity' for carving.

Got it .. THANKS, Bob!

OK, WTH ... Anybody got a VIEWABLE picture of adjustment for the top pressure? I'm getting marks (a layer of 6/7 sewed to a liner of 3/4). Picture in the manual is like a big black blotch ... useless. Blow it up on the screen, still useless. This can't be that difficult, but I'm unwilling to start turning screws and "see what happens".

Just in case anyone else had this same question, here's [part of] the response from Bob ... ... we have a couple of edge guides in stock,a small one that mounts just to the right of the feet f/$6.50 & a deluxe drop down just like Keystones f/$75.00 .... Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd 1-866-362-7397

I have a 206RB-5, where can I get the roller guide for this machine? Sorry if this is already posted, but I can't read ANY more posts with the wrong information

I like this one, though I would take it just one notch further. Scratch the name off of anything you see that inspires you. I know we all assume that if it says Stohlman on it, it's going to be quite nice. BUT -- I've seen many projects that were extremely well done from people who have been working leather for just a short time. I've also seen web sites with long flowery speeches about how long they've been doing it - followed by some stuff that looks like it was taken away from the dog. WHO did it is immaterial - look for styles / techniques / methods that you like, learn what you can from them.

My Paasches (plural) are hooked up to a pancake compressor from Menards, made by Stanley Bostitch. It's a bit loud, for a few minutes. Even after being drained, it runs for about 3-4 minutes, then kicks off. So i just turn it on and then have coffee. By the time the coffee is done, so is the noise. I got it for a little over $100, but came with two finish nail guns that would cost over that alone.

That rose to the left was painted with the Paasche VL. Can't go wrong with these things.. they've been around a long time, nearly indestructable, and replacement parts are everywhere. Simple to use, simple to clean.

This question comes back around every so often, has for years. Mostly, someone heard from someone who heard from someone who heard ... Here's two things .... An 1/8 oz of dye applied with an airbrush is the same amount as 1/8 oz of dye applied with a sable brush. If you really believe (at all) those who say airbrush - applied dye will 'come off', then get a piece of scrap and try it. This is a two-step process: 1.) Spray some dye on a piece of leather 2.) Take it off (if you can).

Wow, when I suggested looking at search results on Etsy, I certainly didn't mean to spend your day brow-beating the next guy. The whole point was, your stuff certainly is that quality (and better than many). My mistake - I should have simply said go on and sell your product and left it at that. What I do NOT suggest, is basing your price on the time it took. One guy makes an item in an hour, next guy takes 3 hours. If the quality is the same, I for one would not pay more for the slower guy - thus rewarding him / her for going slower. A $50 wallet is a $50 wallet, regardless of who made it or how long it took. Seriously, enjoy the crafting. Make some money at it. Improve when / where you can. Just keep in mind, the guy who needs to run someone else down to feel better about what he does (instead of improving it) has issues way beyond the burnished edges.

Head over to Etsy and search 'tooled leather wallet'. You won't feel at all concious about selling yours! Sure, there's some room for improvement, but alreeady nicer than a LOT of whats out there for sale!

The 'cobra' foks can't tell you? I heard wonderful things about the 'customer service' there ..

No, NOT really. The 'texture' in that photo is the grain of the leather itself. Simply, this is not something the crafter has done, but something the animal and the tanner have done.