JLSleather

YIKES! Do people in Kazakhstan have a translation for "that's absolutely gorgeous"...

Shoddy, just shoddy, Mike. I mean, the stool looks nice and all, but where's the CUP HOLDER?????????????

If you're running slow enough to tell where the bar is in the stitch, then you won't break it going into reverse. Gotta be on the upswing to complete the forward stitch, though.

This one is about a double loop lace thing. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/leathercraft-abc/leathercraft-abc-pg3/leathercraft-abc-pg3.aspx And this one, is a cuz you can thing. https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.288485834542527.71464.118170391574073&type=3 At least one will help.

With the Fiebing's colors, you can 'tone down' the reddish tint with a touch of green added. Do this S L O W L Y as the green is quite strong and it doesn't take much at all. You might try mixing a bit in a different bottle, 'case you dn't like it. One more thing, not sure what shade you are after exactly, but I always thought the Fiebings buckskin was a bit yellow-ish.

As a rule, I don't like to see basket stamping less than 4-5 rows high. Just to give you a starting point - since we don't know what you're callling 'small' -- two belts in the picture, both black so color doesn't figure in. Top one is 1 1/4" wide, and done with a 511. Bottom is 1 1 /2" wide, with a narrower border, and done with a 514. My personal preference, I would have used a smaller stamp on BOTH of these, 'tighten' it a bit.

"Suede" is just a term for animal skin with the top grain removed. Chrome tanned doesn't burnish, but the veg tanned will. The BACK side of you 10oz veg tanned leather IS "sueded". We sometimes (incorrectly) interchange the term 'veg tanned' for tooling/carving leather. Tooling leather IS veg tanned, but it is not the ONLY veg tanned. Here's the (eventual) point ... You'll likely see what "looks like" suede, marketed as a "split". When it comes off the animal, it's thicker in some spots than others. They'll skive it (say, to your 10 oz stuff) and the underside is "split" off, but still same tannage. Just terminology. People differentiate "leather" and "suede", but suede IS leather. And when we say leather, lotsa foks think cow - which may or may not be the case.

Matter which way on the color?

Yep, that's it, though I think they re-numbered it since back when. But, since yer fixin' ta use cloth, a plastic template maybe not so useful? Let me know how you gonna put the letters in (dye, paint, applique, whatever) and I'll make the lettering to suit (including sizin' the rascal). Total investment .. oh, let's say - free.

We can't tell how wet your leather is without pictures, but these "push bevelers" have been used for decades. Some folks have made wood or plastic grips to make them easier to use, some are made to fit in a swivel knife, etc. The ones I've seen are smooth faced, and I'm guessing that a heavy texture on the face would make it a bit tough to push (plus destroying the texture you were trying to achieve).

DISCLAIMER: I'm NOT the sewing machine guy, and I don't own a Cobra machine. I think the Artisan is older than 5 years, though that may be long as that guy has had it. Don't see many of those around here, but it's comparable to the Consew 206, which can be had for $700 (ish). I paid $950 for the whole set-up, complete with manual, thread stand, lamp, half a dozen pounds of thread in a couple sizes I would use, about 70-80 needles in a few different sizes , etc .... including brought to my house and set in place. I'm admittedly cheap, but unless he's offering all of that, on a machine that sews well and looks good, and is taking about $700 ... I'd probably just get the Cobra 18, which is the same type deal, comes NEW with everything you need, and belongs to the same guy you got the other one from. That also comes with a $1600 price tag, and some shiping I'd guess, so there's that. I don't know those boys at Leather Machine, but seems like there's osmething to be said for ONE guy to deal with if you have problems of need supplies, ASSUMINg that you're happy with the Class4.

The overstitch wheels you see are quite handy, but will not cover every application. Perhaps the most OBvious question to answer your question ... what will you stitch? I got comfortable with an awl early on. Seen it in a book, and looked like it made sense. Later I saw some 'chisels', and some 'irons', and some 'punches', none of which looked like they would be worth beans for stitchin' 45° miter corners ...

Yep, that sounds like pretty good advice. Also sounds like you state your opinion pretty well, so likely you n yer buddy can work it out ("its for a friend but have to draw the line on something"). Personally, I don't really even discuss with people who charge by the hour. Don't even really listen to their "reasoning". Seriously, to pay by the hour means the SLOWer guy makes MORE, and I just won't REWARD a fella fer bein' slow. Nope.

That was a sketch 'thing' from the 80's. Back of one of the Stohlman books (I 'THINK" the "TOP 20" wallet book). Thinking that ended up as a 'craftaid' template, too, but couldn't find it in my junk ... Pic in a minute ...

Got it. Thanks!

Yes, I know it's old. Anyone still have the pattern for these? The CUTTING pattern, not the carving design.

A shoulder that is very rectangular in shape might cut you 15-20 straps from a shoulder (12-14 feet size). But for that price, you'll likely do better with a side of H.O -- which is $8.23/ft at http://www.goligerleather.com/index.html

Your machine may handle heavier thread (you didn't say what you bought) but 69 thread is NOT for holsters. You might get away with 138 on the gun BELT.

I can empathize. We had a fire in 1993 (and a break-in in 2005). It sucks, I know, but the 'toys' can be replaced. I'd like to have back the photos of some of the old work, but we had copies of the old pictures of the babies (in another location). Everyone here was safe both times, we just lost 'stuff'. In the end, it does give some perspective -- reminder that it's just 'stuff'. The wife goes on about how much she loves our current house, but honestly it looks like some bricks and some sticks to me -- just not the real issue. I know it sucks, and I'm not trying to make light of it. Naked I came into this world ... My wife says that as a conversationalist, I'm a pretty fair leatherworker. Just know that I meant well

As a rule, you're right. Once you start carving, you want to NOT re-wet the leather. This is not always possible, or practical, and you do what you have to do (pretty tough to carve on a formed holster). For your carving, the moisture content is very important, but you cannot get it 'too' wet -- you'll just have to wait longer before you start carving. Where possible, you might form, then carve as the leather reaches the right 'humidity' for carving.

Got it .. THANKS, Bob!

OK, WTH ... Anybody got a VIEWABLE picture of adjustment for the top pressure? I'm getting marks (a layer of 6/7 sewed to a liner of 3/4). Picture in the manual is like a big black blotch ... useless. Blow it up on the screen, still useless. This can't be that difficult, but I'm unwilling to start turning screws and "see what happens".

Just in case anyone else had this same question, here's [part of] the response from Bob ... ... we have a couple of edge guides in stock,a small one that mounts just to the right of the feet f/$6.50 & a deluxe drop down just like Keystones f/$75.00 .... Bob Kovar Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine Sales Ltd 1-866-362-7397

I have a 206RB-5, where can I get the roller guide for this machine? Sorry if this is already posted, but I can't read ANY more posts with the wrong information

I like this one, though I would take it just one notch further. Scratch the name off of anything you see that inspires you. I know we all assume that if it says Stohlman on it, it's going to be quite nice. BUT -- I've seen many projects that were extremely well done from people who have been working leather for just a short time. I've also seen web sites with long flowery speeches about how long they've been doing it - followed by some stuff that looks like it was taken away from the dog. WHO did it is immaterial - look for styles / techniques / methods that you like, learn what you can from them.