JLSleather

Different, but I like it. Are the holsters 'plugged' or is the stitching at the bottom decorative (nice either way)?

Etsy, like other social sites, is hardly a place to guage leather work. We've all seen the pattern you describe, things we thought should have sold or not sold, or sold for more or less than what they did, etc. So ... I've seen only one "pattern" to it (not just Etsy) ... Popularity contest. BS storm. Call it marketing, but it's just noise. While I think it SHOULD be that the better quality should earn better pay, I'm not clueless enough to think that's the way it actually works. Truthfully, my 'marketing skills' are pathetic - from a business standpoint. I don't line a facebook page with wonderful stories about the hours I put in. I have a number of things in mind that I don't make, regardless of the size of the check they're willing to write. I charge what I charge - sometimes quite high, and sometimes ridiculously low - simply because I can. I have a facebook page, with nothing on it. There will never be anything on it, and this is only so some freak can't create a page using my name and say it's theirs. My wife has some stuff on Etsy, but gets irritated when I can't be bothered to email a potential customer. Not my show = not my responsibility. I don't deliberately upset people, though I do sometimes upset them. Sometimes bothers people that I don't run to 'service' them. Generally, that's a 'sale' I don't make, which is okay. From your own post, you mention that it's based on "time, materials, and profit", but immediately begin discussing perceptions...

Exactly. Often, the idea of "handmade" is offered as an excuse for why it shows obvious flaws. This is ridiculous, but none the less true.

That's strange, a bit. Must be a BUNCH of fellas using the same type of buckles all the time - not trophy buckles. Anybody who makes belts knows that a longer buckle makes the belt longer, so I never did "get" why they don't realize the "short" end is different too. Then, I don't get those people who tell customers (or potential customers) to measure an old belt "from the fold". Unless you're using the same buckle, that aint gonna 'git' it. I "usually" use 5 holes, spaced 3/4" apart. Exceptions - where the buckle tongue is large, requiring a large hole, that might not be so good for the strength or the look of the belt, in which case I have done 1" apart. On narrow straps with small buckles, 1/2" might do (example, saddle bag strap, small collars, or portfolio "belt"). And I just checked -- BOTH of those old books describe this alteration to suit trophy buckles, so it's hardly a new issue. Belts Galore -- p2 Lucky 8 Belt -- p3 Both of these books were out by the 1950's, and it's one of the first "lessons" in both books. You know, for what it's worth ...

I take it you're talking about what some around here would refer to as "trophy" buckles. And you're right, it matters - a trophy buckle can change the length of the belt by several inches. Somewhere along 100 years ago (ish) I learned making belts with these type buckles this way ... Mark a fold line, add buckle length. From the "hook" on the buckle, measure the size to the middle hole. With the hook in the middle hole, cut the belt off (tip) 4" past the END of the buckle. So, if your buckle is 3", then the tip would be about 7" from the center hole. With a buckle half that long (1 1/2") then your tip would be 5.5" beyond the center hole. Even with this "generalized" approach, I've had boys ask for a longer tip (beyond what I thought was "right" for the belt). But, that's rather the point of 'custom', NO?

Scribe a line around the entire zipper gusset - on the grain side - about 5/16" in from the outside (3/8" won't hurt). Stitch yer zipper in like normal. \ Make a small mark on the center of each end of the gusset. End of a stylus will work - just a center mark. Then wet the gusset leather,lay it on a table (or rock) grain side up, and use what you have (bone folder, spoon, butter knife, don't matter) to fold the edges up on the 5/16: line. Fold it up 90° all around the thing. Make your case - carving, coloring, what. Fold the case, line up the center marks on the case wth the center marks on the gusset, and stitch. As designed, that case will not lay flat when open. You'll 'booger' it if you try to lay it out open. Slide the pistol in and zip the case shut.

Not sure what they do out yer way, likely different in each state. Simplest terms, what you're taxed on is a matter of what you have that you didn't have before (money in - cost of goods = income). I use Quicken business, and I can tell you that this one and MOST software won't be much help with the inventory. Quicken works okay in that I can click a button and see what I spent for carving leather, or another click er two and see how much I actually "made" in June (lots of other options, just a couple of examples). But, a lot of other programs would do the same thing. Idea (I think) is to keep it simple. Couple things I think more important than the actual program you use (in Iowa, I'm talking now - check yours). .... 1.) Open a "business" bank account, and keep your purchases from there as much as possible. Even a "business" PayPal account is better than multiple places, but then you're left hoping that you can make your purchases with that (which IS possible). Not only this saves you some "other' pains, but the bank you use may be able to tell you which software works easily with their system so yo can download the transactions to verify. 2.) Decide an an inventory "counting" system right from the start. Basically, fair market value of what you have on hand when you "start". Doesn't matter how it's done. Just don't say you have 1/2 full 32oz bottle of black dye, then at the end of the year you call it 16oz. Snaps are maybe by the "bag", etc. 3.) If / when you decide on a software program, set it up to track (separately) -- project materials (leather, dye, oil, thread, whatever) -- tools for the shop -- 'consumed' goods (printer paper, pattern materials, shipping boxes, anything else you use yourself on the job). I can tell you I din't set this up so very well in the beginning, and it would have saved me a lot of time doing that to begin with.

Not only this, but your "own" tax guy will be able to offer advice during the year if you have questions or concerns - since he knows your taxes. We're spoiled around here - same office for years. Mark's office does our taxes. He has all the information on file he needs (like how much we paid last year for any and all taxes, including what we paid for tax preparation). Any questions, they just call or email. When its ready, that girl brings the forms on her way home, we just sign and return it. Painless. Your own tax guy is well worth the time - not sure what we'd do around here if Mark ever quit. Oh, and the money -- whatever year that was, we had unemployment, and W-2's, and 1099's, and SE, and kids (with education costs), and mortgage interest, etc. Filing still under $100.

Yep, that's what I'm talking about. I wouldn't say I'm angry, just not naive. Anyone who doesn't mind paying more for a punch because it's a "leather" punch instead of a "hole" punch - go right ahead. Leather workers are not always the victim, though. We've all seen the ads about "handmade" and "custom" and "value", which sounds nice until you see the same people wanting a 'sale', a 'discount' or a 'deal' on the raw goods. I happened upon a bunch of it all at once one day, and simply pointed out that concious thought is good. If you don't prefer to actually think, "pet rocks" and 'mood rings" will always be available.

Seriously, Frank - I'm not that far south o' you up there. This time of year, a 60° day is three 20's ....

Actually, the dye is where I wanted it (in the shadow, not in the actual cut). Still, this is actually a better way of saying it for the question she asked.

No, it doesn't. This is one of the main reasons I dont use it. If you look around, you'll see lots of projects with that stuff sitting in spots, loooks a bit like what's left behind when the river goes down in the spring. Sad, cuz I've seen some very nice tooling pretty much ruined with it. INSTEAD, I just color where I want color. And I don't put color where I don't want any. This allows me about as much contrast as I want, limited only by the shade of the leather. And I don't buy any 'resist", so there's that benefit. Oh, and I don't buy antique, so there's that benefit (though I do on occasion use antique DYE - not antique FINISH). Some sweatpea will be here in a minute to tell you it can't be done, so I'll just post one picture of a chunk of leather done with NO antique. Fiebing's leather dye (chocolate), then a light app of neatsfoot, followed 24 hours later with Fiebing's Tan-Kote. Idea is just to show that doing it this way, I can basically have it as light or as dark as I'd like. This will take a bit longer than dumping some liquid mud on there, but only until you get used to doing it.

Both.

Nuthin wrong with those - you should get "uncomfortable" more often Oh, and check your PM's

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showforum=82

There is no "comprehensive" list of hardware for leather folks. Creating one would be a full-time (and un-ending) job. Obviously, leather people use buckles -- but that alone covers a LOT of ground (thousands of types/styles). You'll see line 16 snaps called "segma" snaps, which are not the same as "glove" snaps. Case makers are going to want catches and latches. Holster people will want snaps and clips. And that belt guy, and the case guy, and the holster guy, may ALL have use for zippers and buckles. Just not possible to list it all. Far easier to decide on the type of article you want to make, and then narrow what you'll need (and what it's called).

50 belts is a great order! Sue - weeeeet. I think as a rule, the "consistent" folks look for is quality of the materials, uniform styling (like, don't put 5 holes in this belt, then for no apparent reason put 9 in the next one), and the like. Nobody expects them to be identical, and they won't be (which is good). As for bookkeeping, it's EASIER on the 'big' orders. A lot less 'in and out' spending for the same money. Are these tooled? I find one big help with such ... have a table used for dyeing / drying. I make 5 (or so), color em, set em off. Oil setting while I do the next 5 (ish). Are they stitched? Organize them by which have white or natural thread, which are black thread, etc. SERious aid to your time if you don't spend half a day changing threads and tensions (for example). Encouragement? Sounds like you already have some ambition, and you already have a desire to do it right. All you need is to LIKE doing it, and you'll be fine

This onewill spray whatever you need to spray (#1 tip for dyes/detail, #3 if you want to cover large areas - not necessary to switch but maybe a little faster, and #5 will spray finishes/lacquers). You can order this set WITH a compressor, but the table model compressor is pretty sad, and I think not worth getting. The 12" x 13" binder and the 3.5"x 7" wallet colored with the same brush (without changing tips). There are other brushes (hundreds) but this one has a pretty good "bang for the buck". Speaking of bang, if you 'ding' it, which we have, a new needle is available in most hobby stores for about $5. Nearly indestructible. The "extra" one I bought "in case" is still in the drawer unopened several years later. \ Oh, that sounds confusing. The needle (especially the smaller #1) I have replaced many times. The "extra" is an extra SET, still in the box. And, this brush also painted that chicken in my avatar (as my skill increases, I hope to have that look more and more like a horse)

The price of powered machines is not much higher than these "hand crank" models. From this to the 441's with attachments is what ... like $800?

This 1/4" bead is raised? depressed? dyed only? This will affect the WAY you do it, probably.

Yes. You can actually use the same thinner for both. They aren't identical, and I don't recommend mixing the Fiebings with the Angelus. I tried that, with some fairly strange results. OR, go ahead and try mixing - just not on your project. Might be good to see that first hand? Much of what I know about leather came from trying something that didn't work

Fiebing's dyes have always had a reddish tint in the browns. Add just a touch of green to "balance" it back to a more brown tone. OR, use the chocolate instead of the "brown". OR, Angelus dyes may have a truer brown.

What's a "S" point, the round?

Tough to be sure from your picture, but it looks like your nozzle may be partially clogged. Hold the can upside down and spray for a couple of seconds. This will clear any liquid from the nozzle (you'll see it stop). Store it like that. When you get ready to use it, spray just a second or two over a trash can or board (like, anything NOT your project). Maybe that's a primer? Spray what you need to spray (light coats is correct). When done, again, spray upside down until cleared. The stuff hardens, idea is to have it harden somewhere NOT in the nozzle. And most foks spray way too much of it. A 13 oz can (I think is what they are) should last about .. oh --- 100 years, unless you're spraying multiple projects every day. Note there is now another 'version' of Saddle-Lac, with more gloss than before. I bought the "extra" glossy by mistake (didn't look as I grabbed), and I don't care for it. Other stuff I've used for years.

You'd buy a 24" zipper, then remove the teeth from a bit of each end - so the tape actually goes PAST the slot and gets stitched on the ends. I don't know that brass is "best", but it's what I like, and I can't say anything about your zipper, as I don't knw what you have. I DO know the pattern you're referring to. Haven't made one of those in years. Simple enough, though. You can line with about anything you care to use. Shearling always a favorite (don't know why). You'll see them at times with chrome tanned pig lining, but this has been known to react with some gun finishes, so I've never personally tried to use it (plus, Ive always thought it was ugly, and doesn't offer any protection).