JLSleather

The price of powered machines is not much higher than these "hand crank" models. From this to the 441's with attachments is what ... like $800?

This 1/4" bead is raised? depressed? dyed only? This will affect the WAY you do it, probably.

Yes. You can actually use the same thinner for both. They aren't identical, and I don't recommend mixing the Fiebings with the Angelus. I tried that, with some fairly strange results. OR, go ahead and try mixing - just not on your project. Might be good to see that first hand? Much of what I know about leather came from trying something that didn't work

Fiebing's dyes have always had a reddish tint in the browns. Add just a touch of green to "balance" it back to a more brown tone. OR, use the chocolate instead of the "brown". OR, Angelus dyes may have a truer brown.

What's a "S" point, the round?

Tough to be sure from your picture, but it looks like your nozzle may be partially clogged. Hold the can upside down and spray for a couple of seconds. This will clear any liquid from the nozzle (you'll see it stop). Store it like that. When you get ready to use it, spray just a second or two over a trash can or board (like, anything NOT your project). Maybe that's a primer? Spray what you need to spray (light coats is correct). When done, again, spray upside down until cleared. The stuff hardens, idea is to have it harden somewhere NOT in the nozzle. And most foks spray way too much of it. A 13 oz can (I think is what they are) should last about .. oh --- 100 years, unless you're spraying multiple projects every day. Note there is now another 'version' of Saddle-Lac, with more gloss than before. I bought the "extra" glossy by mistake (didn't look as I grabbed), and I don't care for it. Other stuff I've used for years.

You'd buy a 24" zipper, then remove the teeth from a bit of each end - so the tape actually goes PAST the slot and gets stitched on the ends. I don't know that brass is "best", but it's what I like, and I can't say anything about your zipper, as I don't knw what you have. I DO know the pattern you're referring to. Haven't made one of those in years. Simple enough, though. You can line with about anything you care to use. Shearling always a favorite (don't know why). You'll see them at times with chrome tanned pig lining, but this has been known to react with some gun finishes, so I've never personally tried to use it (plus, Ive always thought it was ugly, and doesn't offer any protection).

They do see the leather workers coming, don't they? Hole punches, carbon steel, sharp and ready to use, up to 3/4" -- called "hollow punch". Price range $8-13 for 7-piece set. Hole punches, carbon steel, not so sharp actually, but named "leather punch" or "for leather", price range $4/ea and up Reminds me of that joke my boy told me when he was little ... What do you call a boomerang that doesn't come back? A stick. Seriously, when you've determined there is something you need, do yourself a favor and think about what you're getting before you swipe the card. Odds are, you can get the same thing for much less -- from someone who isn't "marketing" tools. Oh, yeah .. a "burnishing mandrel" is a dowel with a groove.

Not sure what pattern you have,but for a zipper that size I would stick to brass and put it in a leather gusset. If the zipper ever wears out, it can be replaced without tearing up the case. I dont like nylon (or poly) zippers. About anywhere you shop should have #5 zipper tape (and you'll want 'pulls', bottom stops, top stops). Aluminum available also, if the color matters. Hobby stores often carry pre-fab zippers in different lengths, but it's not worth my time to "hope" they have the right length.

Re-wetting of the leather can cause that, and some leather is not as tight grained as others. So, first start with a good piece of leather. Next, with a solid color you may find it better to dye the leather, THEN stamp (I've always thought it strange when the same guy who tells you not to re-wet the leather also tells you to dye, dye, oil, finish, etc...). I understand that's not the color you were after, but I personally think if a guy had a row o' stitchin down each side of the keeper loop it'd be just fine. Future, really is that simple - if it's still too rich for you, thin it more.

That's quite the drop -- working better for you now?

Yikes .. she sold one o' these this morning for $59. GOT to have a talk with that girl ... I mean, old Stohlman design, so not like she spent any time at all with layout, but ... Oh, well - it's her show, guess she'll do what she wants. Math-able. Carving leather $2.78 Chrome goat $1. Backing $.50 Calf lace $4. SUBT $8.30 with dye, finish, cement, wax, call it $9 (which is a bit generous) Meh ... $59 close enough.

There is no "right" about this one. You could dye the leather first, though if you're tooling it may be easier to adjust dye shades if you tool first. If you're stamping (geometrics, basketweave, seed, etc) it wont matter one bit. I oil AFTER the dye, but with a little practice you'll figure which you personally prefer. Here's a picture in leather from a couple years ago. There IS NO tooling, just a pattern that someone on the site uploaded that I decided to paint. Fiebings spirit dyes. No tooling. Red thinned about 20:1 if I remember right (and I'm not saying I do). No tooling, though. No tooling. CLICK picture to see it colored. The avatar to the left, on the other hand, is tooled. Tooled, then background dyed full-strength chocolate brown, then pale green/brown mix, then just thinned brown. Light oil, then Tan-Kote.

That's a BIG shoulder! And, yes, 16 feet. Marked or not, that's 16 feet. You could take an ink pen, and write on the back 16.0, since that's how it's often done (or a marker).

Pretty tough to learn tooling leather on anything but leather. Translation: you need leather. Doesn't have to be beautiful flawless leather, but should be leather that tools WELL (you want to see it the way it's SUPPOSED to work). You didn't mention where you're at. I'm in Iowa, so if you're in the area I'll GIVE you some pieces, just pick em up!

You want to dye it yourself, or get it dyed and just cut, either way at http://www.wickett-craig.com/index.php/leathers/colors Or, look at their tooling leathers, which they will split to the thickness you want. Single layers? Lined and stitched? I haven't used every type of leather they list, but those i've used have been quite good.

You'll do better researching what people in your area (you decide the area) are charging for the same item in the same quality. "Per hour" doesnt mean anything around here. Seriously, I pay for what I'm getting, not how long it took you to get there. By "you", I mean anybody. Example: You make a belt. Fully tooled, good solid leather, good color, and give a warranty - say, if used for what its for, you replace it for 10 years. You price yours at $100 (example). On the other side o' town, I make the same belt. Except I used a swivel cut where you used a "veiner", they are identical. Cut from the same leather. Guy tells me he can get a warranty from you, so I offer the same deal. But, it took me nearly twice as long as you. So, SOME foks 'logic' says mine should be $200. This doesn't even make sense. Do I really get a REWARD for being slow? If I took twice as long and made it twice as nice, this might be legitimate, but remember we're talkin about the SAME belt. If you call a cab, and he blows a tire, is it okay if he leaves the meter running while the tire is changed? Maybe bill you for the new tire? Just a tip ... the time you spent on faqbaq (or tweety, or whatever) trying to convince people why it's worth more ... doesn't count in the time to make the belt (and drying time, seriously). I could go on, but in the end it's YOUR choice to do whatever you want with YOUR leather. Reminds me, that chubby girl has a sale over at cheesey, or etsy, or something like that .. 66% off on already too-low pricing. She's a smart-mouth .. only does it cuz she CAN Oh, just went and checked ... this one holds standard size cards, one pocket each side, maybe thick enough to hold 6-8 cards .. current pricing $7.06 (free shipping with anything else). Doin the math, that's $2.77 worth of leather, so $3 by the time you add dye, finish, thread, and an extra needle "in case". TRIPLE material cost (standard-ish) would price this at $8.32, but like I said it's a 'sale'. Some prefer an hourly thing: materials still $3, total invested time (including cleaning the brush) 1/4 @ $25/hr = $3 + $6.25 = $9.25 Oh, keep in mind she may not be able to get the whole $9 and change - just because there are 100 guys right behind her willing to do this for $8.32, making the whole pricing thing a dead issue.

That's a fuzzy sucker, true I check, personally, that the back of the hide doesn't look like this (it shouldn't). But, if you have a piece already, then possibly the most reliabe (and maybe the quickest) way to solve the issue is to line the strap, stitch the edge. A piece of 2/3 or 3/4 on the back will look nice, add some substance to the strap without making it stiff, allow her to throw some oil at it (or saddle soap, or etc ...) easily. Still won't help with the pup. Maybe sell her a new collar that matches the bag?

The createx paints are water based - the 'pearlized' are the only ones I use, and I use them just for that purpose. Far as Im concerned, acrylics don't belong on leather at all (though some would disagree). Leather is intended to flex.. acrylics, not so much. I can tell you the createx paints do NOT penetrate the leather, and this 'disclaimer' goes to each person who practically begs me to use them (which is what it takes). But, yes, you the solvent will go out of spirit dyes and you CAN go over them with the acrylics (and the acrylics will be no better or worse because of the alchohol dyes).

Gotcha. That is the correct firearm and you are a gentleman. This will be an envelope 'western' foldover. That 19 is a LOT taller. On the glock autos, I have some kabob sticks that are just the right diameter for sight channels. THANKS!

Is that tooled? Looked like maybe burned in ...

Not sure I understood that... so the 19 is HIGHER?

Thought maybe the K frame. Thanks!

Recommendation on holster mold for this one? 4" .357

You'll get a lot of different answers for this one. My best .. depends on the size of the book cover. For a small, say 5 x 8", 4/5 oz leather is heavy enough. For a covering on a hard cover book (the book itself is a 'stiffener", then teh 6/7 is fine. For a 8 x 11", no hard cover inside it, I like a TOTAL weight of about 8 or 9 oz, but since i like them lined i generally would use a 6/7 with a 2 oz lining. No skiving, but on the heavier ones I do gouge the fold lines.