Sixer

I use Pull the Dot snaps on all of holsters (belt loops, thumb-breaks, etc) and I could use a press to save some time. It would also be nice if I could use it for rivets, eyelets, etc... Any recommendations? Thanks!

Thanks fellas! Sewing through the shark was easy... the stingray, not so much I just went for it, no dremel or anything. The little calcium beads definitely deflect the needle every which way. The needle would also crush or break the occassional bead... I was cringing the whole time I sewed it But no broken needles! Fortunately, the black thread is hard to see on the black hide... so the stitching didn't have to be "perfect". My Cobra Class 4 did a great job! All said, stingray is definitely a challenge to work with... but it wasn't as scary as I anticipated. Not really looking forward to doing it again though!

Couldn't agree more... Roger is the man! Top grade leather for sure.

Haven't posted anything for a while, so I thought I would put up a pic of my recent Stingray holster project for a Walther PPQ. I had purchased two beautiful hides months ago and was literally nervous to start cutting on them Anywyay here is the final product... oh, and you can't see it in the pic, but I did full shark skin on the back. Thoughts, critiques, etc. are more than welcome!!

Fear is contagious... you've definitely caught the bug. My advice...take a step back, follow with a deep breath, and just chill brotha Unless they start bannin cows and horses...we should be good.

Well it looks like you've nailed it! I made one for a friend of mine about 2 years ago. He's a local DSF agent and carries an HK 45 with a TLR-2 on the rail. At that time, making holsters was more of a hobby than a way to earn $$. I was certain to let him know that I had never made anything for a rail attachment and that he would want to wear it extensively OFF DUTY before using on duty. I don't think I ended up charging him anything for it... I know that I was personally not happy with the way it turned out. Fortunately he thought it was great... still wears it on duty, haha. I'm determined to remake it when I get time. It keeps getting pushed to the back because I hated making the first one Anyway... FANTASTIC design and workmanship on yours... there is definitely a niche market for these. That said, unless they are local, I'm still turning down any requests for guns with rail mounted accessories. Of course, I'll do it politely

Mark, Those are awesome! How is the retention?

I think it looks great Matt! Stitching is nicely spaced and looks good, the leather in the "window" is nice and burnished, and the inlay size looks about perfect to me. Nice work!

There are many ways to measure success. Being good at leatherwork is neat and all... but some things are more important. 40 years from know, I can only hope that I feel the same way

Couldn't agree more... and who know's how much time you wasted telling the guy "no". Don't expect him to call you when he needs a "regular" holster and don't expect any positive reccommendations to his friends or whoever else he may know. I do my best to treat each customer like I would a friend, or how I would expect to be treated myself... even when declining business. It doesn't always work out that way, but at least I try. I would say that you take your "rejection letter" and delete it forever. Copying and pasting that would be a mistake IMHO.

Or you could always use a couple "Chicago" screws.

Great idea! I'll give that a try along with Shooter's advice on the belt sander. Thank you, thank you, thank you I obsess over my edges so much... and this was just driving me nuts. Much appreciated guys! Shooter, I bought this shark from the Ostrich Market a few months ago. It was about 12 sq feet... not sure if I could have gotten a 53" strip out of it, but I bet it would have been close at the right angle Nice stuff!

It's my first time using shark and second attempt on this belt. The belt is two layers of 6/7 oz veg tan and will have a layer of shark skin on the outside. My biggest issue is the belt edges. Once I glue and trim the shark, I'm having a tough time getting figuring out how to get the best edge on the belt. If I take an edger to the belt, the shark skin tends to bunch up and result in a chewed up looking run of shark. I guess I'm just looking for some advice on how to go about making a shark skin belt. This stuff isn't cheap and I don't really feel like wasting more of it this week I appreciate any tips or advice! Cheers, Eric

The Sig 228 and 229 are most likely the same... I would suggest adding the M&P Shield, Springfield XDs, Walther PPS, and Springfield Operator. Also, you can use your Glock 17 to make holsters for the G19/23 and G26/27... just need to adjust the holster length. Hope that helps

Facebook it man! It's a great starting point and will increase your exposure. Good Luck!

Recently had a request to make a garter type thigh holster. It will be used in wedding pics... It seems easy enough but... Not really something that I've ever attempted ... and I just don't have the time to take it on right now. If anyone would like to give it a go, send me a PM and I will get you in contact with the customer. Thanks!

Thanks guys! Josh you nailed it man... I'm using multiple layers of thinner rubber that add up to 1" +. I'm also sure that I am probably pressing to hard. So, it sounds like I need to order some new rubber and ease up a bit Appreciate it fellas.

Thanks fellas! Ryan, I'll give the plastic bag / vinyl a try. Dwight, I have multiple layers on both top and bottom... I'll have to measure them again but I know it's over an inch thick on both.

I've been using a 20-ton arbor press with sheets of gum rubber on top and bottom to pre-mold my holsters. Overall I really like the results... but the rubber is leaving kind of a rough texture on the leather. I've wiped down the rubber a number of times, it feels smooth to the touch... but I still manage to get that rough look on the holsters. Does anyone else have an issue with this? Is there some kind of flexible material I could put between the holster and rubber to keep the leather smooth? If you look closely at the pic... you can kind of see what I'm talking about. Appreciate any advice

I've had a really tough time figuring out how to get REAL close stitching when using my Cobra Class 4. While I can't offer much help... I will be watching to see what the experts have to say

Good info! Thanks

...and it's not a good smell!! I'm not really sure how to describe it... but this hide has a strange and somewhat strog odor to it. I'm literally considering throwing about 15 sq feet of veg tan in the dumpster if I can get rid of the smell. If I had to guess... I'd say the smell is from the tannery or tanning process. Even after wet molding, the smell is still there. Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions to neutralize the smell?? Cheers!

I can't think of any reason to treat it differently than a "common" semi-auto. Get your stitch lines figured out and treat just like you would any other holster

Did you call before you ordered? I called in an order a few weeks ago for some 8-10 oz skirting. I wanted black, but the guy told me it would be 4-6 weeks before they had any in stock. Soooo, I went ahead and placed an order for the same leather in "chestnut" (basically a dark natural color). I confirmed they had it in stock before ordering. I even had them split it and smooth the flesh side. It was here within 5-7 business days. My guess, is that they are just waiting on your leather to get done, tanned, dyed, whatever

Thanks Steve! I appreciate the kind words from a fellow Missourian Forstner bits ARE perfect for counter sinking your snaps! I try to just remove enough leather w/ the bit so that the snap is easier to set. BE CAREFUL though, it's not that hard to drill all the way through your leather.