billymac814

I use the slack belt method, its far easier than other methods I've tried and didn't really cost that much for the whole setup, probably around 80 bucks including the 1" belt sander. It makes a convex edge which works well on round knives. This is the method Bruce Johnson uses and I'm sure anyone that has bought a knife from him can tell you it makes a seriously sharp edge. Maybe he will be by to post the link to everything you need. After its sharp I just use the leather belt with some compound on it in the belt sander or on my toemek to keep the edge polished.

I used to be on the "handsewing is better than machine sewing" bandwagon right up till the day I got a machine. It just isn't feasible unless you're making very few items and I have yet to have anything machine stitched come undone, machines make a lock stitch that are very strong and if you've ever tried to undo a row of stitching you'll see it doesn't just pull out. We get shoes in all the time with the stitched on soles with the threads completely worn off and the stitch is still holding because of the lock is holding it in. A chain stitch will pull out pretty easy but that doesn't really apply here. A machine stitch also looks fine as long as the machine is right for the job and is adjusted properly. Someone really good at handsewing can make a nice looking stitch but really most customers won't be able to tell the difference and if someone is not good at handsewing it'll look worse than a machine.

That rubbery stuff is done with a special machine that heats it up and applies it, it isn't a cheap endevour at all. We do a lot of repair work and it would be nice to be able to match the finish but not for that cost. I'd be interested in trying those edge paints from Campbell-Randall, that may be close enough.

Still have these, ill take 450.00 for the 29k-58 but no shipping.

The thread in the hand stitching awls is usually somewhere around a 207 or 277, too big for a patcher. At most you could use 138 in one but not all of them like 138.

Where are you located

Cem, have you tried calling in to a US store to order? You can usually pick your store if you just call in but if you order online it goes to your closest store. It might be worth a shot if there's a big difference in price. The steel in those arbor presses drill pretty easily. It must be the Chinese steel or something. Its easier than it seems for anyone wanting to try it. I drilled each end of my ram out with different size holes then I just turn it around if I need to use the other size hole. One side will fit a stamp handle for 3d stamps and the other will fit the knife kit dies. If you just need to punch holes it will work good for that,

That knifekits press is just an arbor press with holes drilled in the ram, you can buy the same one at harbor freight and drill the holes in for about 30 bucks. The problem is you'd also need dies from some other machine. You can use the tools that are designed to be used with a mallet in the press but you will not get the same cosistent results as you would with the actual dies. In fact its really no better than using a mallet other than its quieter.( I tried doing just that) The presses themselves no matter which you choose really aren't the big cost, its getting all the dies you need for the various attachments that start adding up. I have the knifekits eyelet dies as well and they work very good at rolling the eyelets over but they are pretty specific and they only have two sizes for 2 different eylets. I personally would buy a press and get the dies rather than try to use an arbor press and have to modify it anyway, the difference in price in the end will be very small in the long run and it'll be less of a headache. I had a heritage foot press that I sold, I regret that quite a bit now but at the time I had no dies I needed and it would have been an investment to get them and it wasn't feasible at the time, now I would if I had it. I like the looks of the little wonder though, it seems decent and versitile and reasonable. The situation in Australia could be different though, it may be worthwhile making something yourself there but I'd recommend springing for the dies.

I've stitched stuff up within a couple hours. As long as its dry to the touch your good to go, it won't get any dryer. I've even done it when its still slightly damp but I try not to do that if I'm using white thread just to be safe. The good thing about the oil dye is you barely get any run off so it won't bleed on your stitching. Regular spirit dyes almost always bleed on my stitching during wet molding if I'm not careful. Most of the time I dye then let them dry over night but it doesn't always work out that way.

Ray, check out Weavers little wonder.

Eric, Can you explain the differences between the subclasses of the 153 series?

That's a good point, I never really looked at it like that, not being dependent on the utility companies would certainly be good. They will definitely outlast most of us if society ever crumbles. I've always been interested in them, I never had much interaction with them until I started going to some auctions which must be a big thing with them since I always see them there.

So weird really isn't it? So electricity is ok if it doesn't come from power lines? Where are you located? And I mean no disrespect, it intrigues me quite a bit, I've watched every documentary and TV show I can on the Amish, I like the thought of a more simplified life and I like some of their values and things but others are just baffling, like they have beliefs but find loopholes around them.

That's an older one without the removeable horn piece or whatever its called. I had a 29k-51 like that, the only problems with those is if the lower gears go out there are no parts for them. I now have a total of 4 patchers, the best being the Claes, second best is a Adler long arm and a singer 29k-58(for sale) and a 29-4 as decoration. I talked with bob about motorizing my Adler and the cheaper option was the 1 amp motor but he said it lacks power to punch through a lot of stuff so you need to get it started with the handwheel, after that it should go just fine. I ended up going with a table and servo and speed reducer, it was about 400 bucks all together. About half of my business is repair work so I spend a lot of time at a patcher, I would never be without one. I did switch my Claes over to the powered stand and put the Adler back on its treadle. I have a European gear reduction motor that I got with my Claes, I'm going to try it out on one of them at some point, I was told they are very good motors but I haven't messed with it yet. You probably did ok with the price, I sold my 51 for around 350.00 with the treadle and all, it had just been serviced by a local guy so it was sound. The treadle alone is probably 100-150 so you're right in that range if it works good. There are manuals online as well, I think Shoe systems plus has them on their site for download.

How do they get air? Steam or something? You'd think if they were so against electricity they wouldn't buy stuff made with electricity. There's a lot of Amish in Pa. They are decent people I just don't get a lot of what they do. Around here they use cell phones and Internet, and cars are ok so long as they aren't driving. One of my customers is a driver for them, he says they pay well.

The machine will have its limitations and its not the ideal machine for holster work but it might do for now. I have a Consew 206rb which is probably in a similar class as the one you got, it will sew with 207 thread up to I think 3/8" but it is really maxed out sewing like that even though to the average sewing machine shop it would be considered a heavy duty machine, it does much better on softer and thinner leather with thinner thread. I don't use it for holsters though. The flatbed is tough stitch most holsters with. Its set up with a gear reduction servo motor. I have a Cowboy 4500 for holsters and heavy work. It has a speed reducer and servo as well but it also has a giant flywheel that helps punch through thick stuff. Its a cylinder arm so its much easier to get holsters like fold over types like an avenger style under the needle. You may be able to see these on a flatbed but you may have to really hold them flatter, it might help to wet the bend first so you don't over stretch the leather. You could probably get more opinions if you posted something in the sewing machines section of the forum. I believe on your machine there are different subclasses which mean different things too. Bob Kovar (cowboybob on the forum) would know best too as he's a Pfaff dealer and specializes in setting machines designed for leather. I don't know what size the Tandy thread is but I think its around 277, I used to use that when I first started, I still have some, it almost looks a little bigger but its hard to tell. If you cement your pieces together I don't think you'd have any problems with 207 but I think 277 is pretty standard for most of us, some folks use 346, I think Dwight is one of them. I use it on really heavy items. There's a few places to get stamps, a member here I think his name is embossing die co or something like that makes them pretty cheap and Brenda at Lasergiftcreations is a good one. I would get a small plate that is designed to be used with a press instead of the hammer type. You don't need a press, I use a pair of visegrips to press most of mine, I ground the teeth off of both sides and cemented a piece of leather to the one side. On flat items I do use an arbor press but most things aren't flat. Did you register your business name at all? Only reason I ask is if you start with a name like that and even though its a hobby or side thing now if you ever get larger and sell more and have spent a lot of time and energy into building up the name and get to the point where you have to start doing things like pay taxes and such and find out you can't register that name it may be a problem later on. You don't technically have to register a business name if you use your own name but I was advised to do so anyway by my accountant. I'm not sure how it works really but I don't think you're the only "working man customs". That may be ok though, it would just suck to find out its not after you built the name up or if you get him lots of work from people doing Internet searches. Here's a picture of the one I got from EmbossingDieco( I'm not sure if that's his correct name). I think it was like 30-35 bucks. Here's a picture of one of my Avenger holsters. Here's a good thread to read regarding sewing machines, especially walking foot machines. There are many different types of walking foot machines and each work differently. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239&st=0#

The pfaff 145 is more of a medium weight machine and its a flat bed so it may no be too practical for holsters. You should be able to use it for pancake styles and other flat type holsters or sewing reinforcement pieces on, probably max out at 207 thread. I use 277 thread on all my holsters unless its a really heavy duty one then ill use 346. Here's my opinion on a makers mark, someone should be able to use it to track you down if they see it and want another one. I have several stamps made in various sizes, some say McCabes custom leather, others just say McCabe. If someone picks up my holster, let's say it was included with a used gun they bought and they really like it and want to get another one for their other guns they can easily google McCabe holsters and find me or if they get one stamped McCabes custom leather they just google that. If you just put WM it means nothing to them, they may even find me (William McCabe ) before they find you. You can get them made for cheap, around 30 bucks for a smallish one and it'll look more professional and serve its purpose. Otherwise I don't see the point to just put the WM at this point, if you want that to be your logo I would put it very small beside the words spelled out until you have brand recognition which doesn't often happen for most of us. Even Mercedes spells out their name on their cars along with the logo. That's just my opinion though, you can do whatever you like, that's the beauty of it all.

I get all my zippers and zipper parts from Ohio travel bag or Wawak. We do a lot of zipper repairs and replacements. I never look forward to doing them but I do have an old set of tools that make the job easier. Ill try the nylon pockets sometime, it would keep down the bulk some. I don't make many wallets though, just the occasional one.

I'm pretty sure there's another "Workingman leather" on TCU, I think he is/was a member here too. I was supposed to make him something and I completely forgot about it until now. I would agree about the edges, mark out your lines where the leather will meet and stop burnishing there, when you put them together you can sand them or cut them flush. You can use a dremel or a belt sander. You can get a 30 dollar 1" belt sander from harbor freight that will be perfect for that. What sewing machine did you get? Make sure it is suitable for the job, if not keep handsewing them. Get the Al Stohlman book, he makes it very clear how to get perfect stitches and don't be tempted to take easier routes. Aside from that just work on keeping your lines very fluid and try to get your stitch line close to the profile of the gun or it'll loosen up over time. Also when molding them sometimes less is more, it looks like the last picture you overworked the leather trying to mold it. I used to do that a lot at first. All I use is a modeling spoon to detail them, I use a press but when I'm doing them by hand I just use my hands to form them then use the modeling spoon to trace the lines. Don't rub the leather with anything or it'll compress the leather and not be perfectly smooth and look like the last picture does, I'm not sure if that makes sense or not, its hard to describe what I mean. Lastly I would not do the logo thing like you did, it looks like it was scratched in there. If you want to do something similar either have a stamp made or get a piece of conduit and press that into the leather to make a circle and use alphabet stamps for the lettering. Tandy also sells a stamp that says "handcrafted by" and has a spot for initials. I used to use it prior to having stamps made. I'd also recommend using your friends as guinea pigs, just make sure they will be honest with you. I wouldn't sell anything to a stranger that isn't perfect, in the long run it'll pay off, it doesn't take many people posting bad things on the Internet to ruin a new business and holsters are not like most other leatherwork, it is serious business that could result in some bad stuff happening if something goes array. If someone drops their gun and don't realize it who's to say a kid won't come up and find it or maybe someone can't get to their gun out of the holster when they need it most. Each new design should be thoroughly tested before it is released. Also you'll get all kinds of requests for some crazy holsters, if they start off by saying " I can't find what I'm looking for anywhere" it is usually because its a bad idea, its easy in the beginning to want to take on these jobs because you want every sale you can get but I would try to refrain and educate the customer. Most will respond well, some won't.

That is one of the nicest things I've seen in a while. Very nice.

The seats looked great. I did a motorcycle event a few years ago and my stuff got lots of attention and a lot of people said they'd call me soon to have a seat made and i met an upolstery guy who said he has never seen leatherwork so nice and told me hed send me lots of work but in the end I think I only sold 2 or 3. The only way I think I'd do another show is if I was sewing patches on or selling belts and small things that are cheaper and more impulsive purchases and I'd only do a local one just to let people know where my shop is so they know where they can get patches sewn on in the future. I found I can't make decent money on seats anyway so I'm pretty much done doing them, I'd take on one if I knew the person or just wanted to do one. I also got tired of hearing people say how the seats look nice but "you couldn't ride on one very far". That alone inspired me to do an iron butt ride on one, I rode 1280 miles in 23 hours. The show I did was a big one that was expensive to do, if I remember right it was about 1500 for a 10x10. There's one in June that the people are trying to get me to do, I'm not sure yet if I'm going to or not, I don't think I'll have the time to make up much of anything, its 250.00 for that one, I'd think I could make money there but its hard to say. If you do more, in addition to taking smaller cheaper items I would make one seat really "fancy" to show what you can do then try to make some more as cheap as possible(still use good materials) maybe stitched instead of laced and no tooling. I think you'd have an easier time selling those on the spot and people will still be able to see your capabilities if they want to cough up the cash and have one made. Anyway, I'm glad you had fun and got to relax, I'm sure you'll kill it next time now that you know what to expect. Your signs looked good too, I might have to get similar ones made, I take it they are just giant business cards?

How do the slots work? Are there pockets somehow In each one? I've seen them done that way before and always wondered how they work.

You could probably make something up with a pair of vice grips pretty easily too. I think that the better presses with good dies have something that keeps the rivet inline with the cap to prevent the shaft from bending like they can sometimes do with a hammer. You won't have that if you use something with just a domed anvil. I've also used the regular hammer setter in an arbor press but its not really any better than using a hammer.

I went a long time without getting the press n snap tool but as soon as I got it I wish I would have got it a lot sooner. It does a better job, especially when the post is a little longer than it needs to be, I used to mess around with sanding them down so they didn't bend over. With the tool it does it nicely as long as the post is not way longer than it needs to be. Its also a pretty substantial tool, its bigger than it looks like it would be. You can get other presses like the Little wonder that will do all sorts of things like any snap and rivet but the dies add up quick.

I have a press n snap tool, its not for sale but there aren't any dies available for rivets for it. They work great on snaps though. You can only set snaps that are within a few inches of the edge as well but that's rarely a problem. You may need to get creative with what you use as an anvil, I often use a shoe last/ jack as an anvil, its easy to get into tight spots and mine is very solid.