CustomDoug

Sorry, I failed to mention that I know of the Singer website page w/lists of parts PDF files specific to each machine. But my old mac mini has suddenly decided to stop fully loading up PDF files (only loads the first page?) . It's a mystery to me why this is, but I haven't loaded a pdf in a long time. I have to get this figured out, which from my experience diagnosing bugs, could take a while. I'd really appreciate if someone could help with the feed dog and plate questions. Thanks again. Doug C

Hello folks, I've been using my Consew 287R cylinder arm machine [which is apparently based on the Singer 153W cylinder arm machines] with a worn out looking feed dog as well as a well worn ( heavily rounded off edges) needle plate. Both were on the machine when i received it used. The feed dog is pn# 240663 and the needle plate is pn# 240664 (singer part numbers). If I'm not mistaken these seem to be a set designed for a binding attachment. Can someone confirm? I plan to eventually use binder attachments on some items but in the mean time, which set is best designed for basic leather sewing with a smooth bottom presser foot? Is there a set that's better for veg-tan and/or chrome individually? Canvas? Thanks! ~Doug

I can't find a good detailed picture of the French Fileteuse that shows the plug end... but looking at the expensive electrical boxes that they work with, it appears that they contain female banana plugs. The electrical control units that I linked to above (woodcraft) look to use a 1/4" stereo type jack. So perhaps a jack like this would be needed: http://mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=3934 http://mycablemart.com/store/cart.php?m=product_detail&p=3683 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-Microphone-Stereo-Male-to-2-RCA-Female-Y-Converter-Adapter-Plug-Splitter-/400380554957 I don't know anything about the size of the banana clip plugs though or what inputs adapters would work - maybe someone else here is more in the know about that? Just looking for a way to save a little money while getting these items to easily work with standard US electrical outlets. Doug C

Hey wouldn't the following work just fine for controlling and cranking the heat of soldering irons down: This one for the common electrical plug soldering irons- http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001813/3480/Temperature-Regulator.aspx The next two for an iron with a non-powered "jack" type of plug- http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000800/1881/Detail-Master-Excalibre.aspx http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2000800/1879/detail-master-dagger-iii.aspx Maybe the last two would work with the French Fileteuse handles that are available from Mando.fr ? Doug C

Yea I just noticed that.. I saw a 3 piece set (2,5,10 prongs in 7 spi) for $37.50 shipped. The seller has a much better rating and describes the irons as being made from 'high quality steel' and an 'improved design: refined tips are much easier to pull out' . So that's probably a smarter move to test the quality on.. and tide me over until my Blanchard irons are collected. Doug C

Hi guys, my plan is to be outfitted with the Blanchard tools specifically, always has been. I was just thinking that this might be a good way to have a complete set of irons at an affordable price - while I slowly replace them individually with the Blanchard ones (because of the expense). I would not be buying them with the idea of them being lifetime tools - but then you never know, not everything from china is Wal-mart quality. Besides like was mentioned, they could be sold later at a slight loss to recoup some/most of the initial investment. Buying one to test first is a good idea though. The slant and orientation of the prongs look to be correct (if wanting the tradition " / " angle of the punch) - there's a picture of pricked leather in one of their other auctions. Doug C

[I have no affiliations to this seller] - Here's a really tempting set of French style pricking irons I just came across. Tempting for someone new to hand stitching if nothing else.. and tempting because you get 12 irons for $162 shipped (like $18 each !).. they are chinese though which will be reason enough for some people to dismiss them. Though I have to say that the edge guides for my industrial machines, that I ordered directly from china were of very good quality and I'm very pleased with them. Unfortunately the seller has a fairly low feedback rating at 97.3%. Says they are made of white steel - for whatever that's worth. Thought? http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-7-3-38-3-85... Doug C

Is it just me or does that look like three or four thin-ish layers of veg-tan leather with a thin top layer of chrome tanned leather? Look at the apex of the corner. It also looks a little like it was edged before the top layer of leather was added... 'because that top layer doesn't seem rounded on it's edge. Also (JMHO), I've never seen an edge quite that glossy before - so I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't something more than just doing extra steps of the usual sand,buff and wax. I'm guessing some kind of flexible varnish or something. I could be totally wrong of course - the pictures are only hard to go by. Doug C

Regarding the "wax/paint" thing.. after reading this thread (and another thread on the same subject) I still think that there must be a wax/paint mixture or a colored wax that can be used. In the other thread, our forum member Art (who's usually a really good source for information) mentioned that the product used was 'Yankee Wax'. His comment got completely glossed over and know one else mentioned yankee wax again. FYI, it's been used in the shoe making craft for years and years and looking at it, it seems to be just the ticket when used with a Fileteuse of some sort. Art suggested a basic "iron" heated with a flame like the shoe makers use it - but this thread is about the electric fileteuse and soldering irons. I think it might be worth a try (but I don't have my Fileteuse yet). Thoughts? Here's a look at this colored wax: http://www.frankfordleather.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=07A99E346C4F424FB75AD246A3C7693A Doug C

I need to pick up a new spool of 207 thread for my Consew 287R cylinder bed machine.. was about to order it in bonded nylon when I saw the following page advertising 'un-waxed polyester-linen blend' thread. The size is between a 138 and 207 - which is fine for me. The description says it's "ideal for sewing fine leathers". I'd imagine it would have that slightly more natural appearance to an all polyester thread. Has anyone here ever used it before? Your impressions? Thoughts? Also - and this may be a dumb question.. but is there any reason this same thread could not be manually waxed up and used for hand stitching too? http://www.thethreadexchange.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TTE&Category_Code=polyester-linen-thread#product-selected Thanks, ~Doug C

Richard, have you considered using a sharp diamond awl rather than sharper needles? It would help with a neat consistent line of stitching. Not sure about any thread cutting into the leather as it's pulled tight.. though that could be the effect I suppose. Good luck. Doug C

This might be a "BINGO !" moment... the feed dog on this machine looks worn the heck out for sure. I will switch it out, been meaning to address that at some point just for aesthetics if nothing else - thanks for the heads up Gump. The machine is a Consew 287R and uses 135x16 needles.. but I'll install a #20 needle too, thanks Darren. Doug C

Very Helpful David- Thank you. I just checked the John James website and as you said the No.3/0 (that I have) is a large needle - their largest harness needle in fact. BTW, they also call it a size 16. These are 62mm length x 1.63mm diameter. So, I guess this will be too large for even the largest Fil Au Chinois thread, the 332 size. I plan to mainly use this brand thread for most my stuff, but if I ever do a really large piece - I'd still like to understand what kind of thread would be recommended for these needles. Any body know? I think I'll start off with #7 pricking iron (for use with my 432,532 thread).. actually a #7 portmanteau is what I'll be after. Know who has the best pricing on these (either Dixon or Blanchard)? Thanks again! ~Doug C

Hi, I purchased a small package of John James & Sons needles a couple years back off ebay. The package is all black with a cream colored label (looks NOS to me), it reads "Diamond Eggeyed Harness Needles No. 3/0, made in Redditch England". I also bought a couple spools of Fil Au Chinois 'Lin Cable' waxed thread.. one is size 432(or 0.63mm) and the other is 532(or 0.57mm). Would the No. 3/0 needles be appropriate for either of these thread sizes? If not, what size thread are they meant to be used with? Also, of the two size threads I already have.. what's a good size pricking iron to look at purchasing? I understand that thinner thread is better with more SPI than thicker threads, but these two sizes are sort of in the middle of what's offered by Fil Au Chinois anyway. Thanks ~Doug C

Hello Carole - welcome to the forum.! A quick question for you, as you are located in France... would you be interested in acting as a proxy or at least a "go between" for the group and a few French based leather good's suppliers? There are a couple that I know of that are hard to communicate with if you don't speak French (I'm assuming you do). Their website's tend to be, well... not English friendly let's say. A phone call to them for pricing and shipping quotes could be so helpful. Sorry to hit you with such an inquiry on your first visit. This is a good place to learn and share, a very helpful group here, with very few big egos (which is rare). Welcome again. Doug C

Thanks for the picture Tom, that really does help. I think I can make one now.

I should have known. Yea supporting the piece is always a bit of a headache with the cylinder arm machine, unless it's a tubular item. I've thought about making an adapter but kept thinking I'd get myself another flat bed machine soon. I guess I need to break down and make the extension though. Any tips on making one, what did your construction consist of, laminated top and edges? Doug C

Hi I haven't used my cylinder arm machine much to sew anything other than chrome apparel leather. But just yesterday I was sewing some veg tanned leather while putting together a bible cover. While sewing the two layers together, the rounded edges gave me problems.... specifically the stitches from the bobbin side tends to want to 'walk' off the edge of the leather (just barely stuck into the edge) while the top stitch is right where I'm trying to put it - which is about 1/8" from the edge. I was using a #18 leather needle with #92 nylon thread. Maybe the needle is too small for the thicker leather and causing deflection possibly? I'm using a spring loaded 1/8" compensation foot to help maintain my distance from the edge (letting the spring loaded part just hang off the edge of the leather) and going fairly slowly, especially around the edges. Also, I used HD double side tape to hold the two pieces together before starting the stitch run. Any tips for eliminating the bobbin stitch's wandering ways? Thanks. Doug C

Sold (some time back, sorry)

Sorry I didn't make note sooner that this has been sold.

OK, I'd been using end nippers but I guess they are just too short handled for the #12s.. I'll see if I can find a pair with a particularly long handle - 'cause I like the idea of not having to guess where along the stud to make the cut. I suppose hardened steel or some kind of hardening process is important too (assuming they're not all done this way now)? Heck.. I'll get a set of the side cutters too, probably dirt cheap at HF. Thanks for the input guys.

That's a good tip, thanks.

What are you guys using for cutting down the length of copper rivet posts before setting them with a hammer? I've been using a relatively small set of nipping pliers. But it's always been a struggle at best, and I haven't done many at all. Will mostly be using #12 rivets. I'll be going to Harbor Freight at some point this week - would they have something that would work?

The splitter has sold. Thanks.

I got you third in line Ken.