camano ridge

The first piece of advice I can give you is use the search bar up in the upper right hand corner. There are a miriad of posts for beginers giving ideas for starting tools, books etc. Using the search bar you can find answers to specific questions that have probably already been asked as well as patterns etc. As to creating patterns, there are many patterns available on line and at your local Tandy. Also places like Joann Fabrics have patterns theat can be adopted to leather. Many of the patterns available can be used as a starting point and adjusted to your liking. If you want to make your own patterns looking at existing patterns will help you develop your ow. If you do a google search you will find tutorials on creating patterns for a veriety of projects. Book suggestions: Al Stohlmans The Art of Handstitching, all of the Stohlman books on Case making. Beyond that it depends on the projects you want to make. Also look for you tube video by Niegel Armitage and Ian Atkinson (Leodis Leahter). Here is one of the many threads on getting started. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54820&hl=%2Btools+%2Bfor+%2Bthe+%2Bbeginner#entry351855

Roy, that one worked. Again thank you for your generosity in sharing. I had some of your patterns already including a few not in this set of patterns, however there are several here that I did not have.

Take a look at the Tandy Batwwing Shotgun Chap Patern pack. The batwing patern looks similar to Favors chaps.

Roy, thank you very much for sharing. Very generous. Roy, tried two different unzip programs both say it is an invalid file.

Any chance you can provide a picture. It is easier to tell you where you might be able to find an item if we can actually see the item. Have you gone through the online catalog for Ohio Travel Bag and Weaver to see if they have anything that looks like them? It is possible that they used copper brads or escutcheon pins. Check this site out and see if you see something like it. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/search_subCategory.do?categoryName=Nails,%20Tacks,%20Brads%20and%20Escutcheon%20Pins&category=481

I frequently make items with just neatsfoot oil or Olive oil and suntan to get a darker then natural color no other dyes used.

Looks like he is using an edge creaser. Google Osborne edge creaser to see what they look like. They basicaly have a slightly longer blade on one side this is your guide and runs along the outside edge of your project the shorter blade is your creaser and creases a line on your project. Thye come in different widths. There are also adjustable creasers, however I am prety sure this is fixed creaser. They will create kind of a rounded bead between the edge and the crease.

Very cool. Do you wear bat wing chaps when you ride.

Like dwight said and like we do for lined holsters etc. Glue the two pieces together. Now they are one piece treat them that way. Don't over think it. Yes if you take two seperate pieces and wrap them around something they will act as two weperatapieces and one wil appear longer then the other. However when you attach them together and I do reccomend gluing befor stitching, once they are stuck together they have no choice but to behave as one piece.

As stated above send Shooter McGavin a PM asking if he still has some to sell, or google belt loop staples. Weaver has brass ones like shooter , Tandy has stainless steel ones.

6-7oz is about the minimum if yo want a holster that will hold your gun and not break down and loosen up in a short time. Like Chief said if you have enough laminate two pieces of 4 -5oz together now you have a lined holster and one theat will be firm and hold your shooter nicely.

Don for, thumb breaks the two places I get mine is from theblugunstore.com or High destert leather. SOme people usemetal strapping fpr mouth piece re enforcement. If I am going to to re enforce the Belt loop so it can be bent out etc. Or I am going to make a Fast Draw holster I use Galvanized or stainless. http://037287c.netsolstores.com/thumbstiffenersbreaks.aspx http://www.highdesertleather.com/id74.html There is also JRM Clips. They sell thumb breaks, metal holster shanks, belt clips etc. However you have to buy quantitiy from them. http://www.jrmclips.com/thumb-break-stiffeners.html

Actually leather kydex Hybrid holsters have been around for while. Tucker holsters, Crossbreed and others have been on the market for some time and have a fair following. I must say that I do like the way yours is done with stitching insteead of rivets or screws. However I will be interested to see how the stitching wears over time.

Looking good Lobo.

When you get there tell them it is your first time there they will show you around and take you to the back room, you will be amazed at the amount and types of leather they have.

Have you called and talked to springfield Leather. THey have far more leather then what is online or in their catalog. The back room is huge floor to ceiling leather. Inn most cases they sell by the sq ft. Won't hurt to call and tell them what you are looking for.

Thanks Granpa joel, I was leaning toward Bridle, if I can find some place that sells Bridle strips/straps I don't want to haveto buy a large quanity to do one headstall. if I can't find what I am looking for i will go with the Veg and dye.

Like the title says what is the best leather for making headstalls, veg tan, latigo, bridle leather etc. ? Why? I am going to want it to be black wiht a good gloss.

Here is what I have for compatability so far. GLOCK 17/22/31 GLOCK 19/23/32 GLOCK 26/27/33 If you don't see a number it is because as far as I can tell it is a stand alone model. There is a G 30 and G30S available from blue guns however I have been told that the G30 will work for the G30S. THe other thing to remember is that there are also generations. SO a G19 may not work for a G19 Generation 4 etc. SOme of the generation changes are internal but on some models there are also physical changes that can affect fit.

I do same as Dwight if I can't get what I need. I have a box full of wood guns. I find a reliable online source like the manufacture get the specs find a good side profile picture and enlarge until it meets Height and length specs. Most i make out of 1" by 4" or six inch pine or fir depending on what I have on hand. In mancses you can do the same with lasers or lights using clinders of similar size. THere are some models with lights and or lasers available as dummy guns also blue guns under accessories has some lasers also a company called http://www.multiholsters.com/Molds.htm has seveal models of dummy lasers etc. How ever not cheap and may not warrant $40 -50.00 for one project. I don't know where you get your dummy guns but here are some places to check bluegunstore.com, Duncans Outdoor (go to tab Duncans customs) and the one already mentioned.

I do same as Dwight if I can't get what I need. I have a box full of wood guns. I find a reliable online source like the manufacture get the specs find a good side profile picture and enlarge until it meets Height and length specs. Most i make out of 1" by 4" or six inch pine or fir depending on what I have on hand. In mancses you can do the same with lasers or lights using clinders of similar size. THere are some models with lights and or lasers available as dummy guns also blue guns under accessories has some lasers also a company called has seveal models of dummy lasers etc. How ever not cheap and may not warrant $40 -50.00 for one project. i don't know where you get your dummy guns but here are some places to check bluegunstore.com, Duncans outdoor (go to tab Duncans customs) and the one already mentioned.

Here is Clay's Facebook page you can contact him through facebook. https://www.facebook.com/pages/Leather-Stamps-by-Clay-Miller/120176791368237

Hard water that has a lot of mineral especialy iron can discolor leather. if you have that problem just get a bottle of distilled water about 99 cents a gallon.

Are you using a rivet setter? Most copper rivet setters have a holl. Once you have pusehed the burr onto the shaftof that rivet place the hole in the setter over the shaft and drve down until the burr is flush agaunst the leather. Once I have the burr setI cutt the shaft using nail nippers I put the end of the nippers flush against the burr. The angle of the edge seems to give me the right amount of the shaft left. I take a partial cut then rotate the nippers a little then cut again doing that all the way around the shaft. When I make my final cut I have kind of a pyrmid at the shaft end. Using a the domer portion of the setter I dome out the shaft end and have a nice tight fit. If you do not have a setter peen it using light taps with the flat face of a hmmer until the shaft is flaired out. Here is an example of copper rivets I have done.

How are you intending to Attach them, standard suspender clamp, D rings, snap around loops etc. ?