Reaper

I use a Kydex shim between the two pieces being screwed together. This makes a firm mounting point and it also keeps the holster ridged at the mounting point for the life of the holster.

ditto, picked that up from stripping an old Safariland Duty rig.

very very Nice indeed...

Form your Kydex, the take Thermal Plastic Glue and glue a piece of 2 oz inside it. Start at one point and work your way with the glue out from the center line of the holster, Stretch the leather as you glue each small area and hold it until it stays, add some more glue and stretch and hold. Do it until you've got the leather all the way out past the Kydex and let it dry solid. Trim it with a new razor finish up the edges as you like. I'd probably cut the leather back on an angle and glue over the edge again up top of the cut back, let dry and they burnish...

Something else you could try out is taking a Shirt Button a bit larger than the Laser activation button and clear cellophane tap it in place. Then bone the button. You get the boning done and it also will ensure there is at the least, the thickness of the button between the Laser button and the leather.

because it would have a good chance of screwing with the coating and also leaving blemishes on the lens.

sweet! Liking those allot... Leatherwood at one time had a set of Leather Scope Covers for their skinny tube Sharps scopes. They had a thong going between the two so you kept them in a pair when not on the scope.

something else you might try is using a spry bottle for wetting it. It really depends on the leather on how I go about doing the molding. With a russet color (Herman Oak) 6-8 oz I will dip soak it in water, but with a lighter leather (some of the Mexican leathers) I will use a spray bottle with bottled water in it. Something you might be able to do is dip that in water until it is wet evenly (soak it) and then let it dry most of the way so that your not pushing water into certain areas so that it accumulates drying darker in those areas because of the build up of impurities.

He would be better served with either a Belly Band, a Fanny Pack or an ankle holster using a revolver while jogging. Or, he could get a Clip-Grip....

joshk, very nice indeed. Only thing I would suggest would be to try out a thicker thread or a smaller drill bit... Though I don't know that I *would* even do that... Nice

I'll look around and see if I can't find the link to a site that has all sorts of preformed injection molded holster clips if you like. Something you might consider is doing the Kydex thing, but before you heat and bend the kydex, place it between two 2 oz pieces stitched up against the sides of the kydex. You don't have to heat it up until the leather burns as you know but enough tha tyou can get the bends in it your seeking. I'd also consider putting either two Chicago Screws or gromets to hold the holster in place? Really nice looking rig Shooter and Tuckable is a very good option, it won't make him a target and he can get to it when needed...

http://www.coversuperstore.com/Snaps-Grommets-Hardware/

KG Industries Leather Silicone Cream.... Work it into the inside of your holster and let it dry. It will make it slick as Kydex without loss of any of the retention qualities of the molded leather.... You should be able to get 15 - 20, full size pistol holsters from a small bottle of it and it will make a huge difference. http://www.kgcoatings.com/lubricants/kg-9-micro-ptfe-leather-kote/

notice the area where the sweat shield is butting up against your thumb? I would cut that back a bit so it would not get in the way when making a grab in a defensive situation. Other than that, looking very good.

Springfield is the only one I buy from. I like the people and their manner of dealing with customers. From the very first order I was made to feel like I was a long time customer who was the most important person they would ever deal with.

CZ SP01 CZ P01 CZ 75B CZ 75B Compact CZ 75 P07 Duty. CZ 75 RAMI Subcompat With the CZ pistols popularity growing at a fast pace I would think that the Six I listed would be a very good choice of additions.

Tension screw placed in the arch are where the trigger guard face and dust cover meet can be beneficial as a holster get more worn and stretched over time. Retention and Tension are different things. Retention Buttons, Levers , Snaps and Straps work at keeping someone from grabbing your firearm out of your holster. Tension Screws generally keep a fire arm from falling out of a holster. Tandy Leather is now selling Open Backed Chicago Screw sets in Brass, Chrome and Black (Chrome). I use the Open back part of one of those Chicago screws, a Black, Brass or Chrome Finish Cup Washer and a 8/32 screw, mostly Allen Head or Philips as the Standard (Slot Head) will probably end up allowing the end user to have the Blade of the screw driver slip out of the slot and mar up the holster...

I bought a Pony, used it three times and sold it... If your using a machine you don't need one and if your hand stitching a holster it becomes a pain in the ass as you start sewing.. I guess if there was a strap you slipped up and down to apply tension to the fingers it wouldn't be bad. But turning wing nutz will drive you nutz in short order... Also if your stitching something for say a sub compact it would end up being in the way more often than not.

Looks very nice.. really really.. You could actually do the same design with a modification so there are straps with snaps so you do not have to thread the belt, just slip the straps around the belt and snap it in place where you like the carry. Belt Strap, Belt Snap and a few other names I've seen it called by... Instead of cutting slots, you have the same ears, but you cut them down to around 1.25 inch and add a strap on each one with snaps. Very easy to take off and put on.

Gives me hope for mine, good looking work. Picked one up but it is going in for a total rebuild, tired of it snapping needles because of how sloppy the wear on the parts has it functioning.

Most all Commercially Produced Kydex products are made from a Granular Kydex Pellet mixture put under pressure causing it to heat and solidify in molds simular to Injection Molds used for other plastic products. I do not see the Commercially made Clips being done in another manner really. Do like the jig you put together and if it were me I would probably keep with the idea and improve upon it as you can.

Apologize about that, my 16 year old daughter was telling me about "Josh" wanting her to tell my wife and I she was spending the night with a friend so they could drive 70 miles away to go see some concert and spend the night.... kinda had "Josh" on the mind... and a shovel, a moonless night and a new shed...

Very nice! Something you might look at next time is a D Ring so the Mounting strap has more width, then make like a Key Fob with a Snap Ring on each end or some such. Still it is a very "Nice" rig and should make him very happy for sure.

Thank you... You don't have to have snaps for the strap if you do not mind threading the belt. Take the width of your belt x 2 + 1 1/4 and sew the straps as loops in the same place you would put the snaps. It would allow you to finish the build and learn from it, then your next if you make one you can add the snaps. You might find Snaps at a Western Store local to you, or they might be able to order you some. Most have a account with some Leather Goods Supplier for those who are repairing tack. Also, if there is a Canvas Awning company local to you they have them and might sell you a bag, many keep them in baggies for home owner repairs. You can find Kydex at www.knifekits.com in 030 - 090 in thickness. I do not care for Kydex, Concealex or other derivatives because of its abuse to the finish. Lined with Leather it isn't bad, but, eh I like my weapons too much.. hehe

I can understand your position on the subject, but also wonder if you have ever thought about it from the perspective of "dressing to conceal"? I live down here in Florida and spend much of my time wearing nothing more than a pair of Jeans and a T-Shirt un tucked. The fact that I carry IWB means I do not have to wear a T-Shirt two times too big for me to cover the bottom half of my Pancake, Three Persons, Avenger of what have you hanging off my belt and down past my shirt. That is why I carry IWB, for concealment reasons, valid ones... If an IWB Holster, or any Concealment Holster for that matter is designed correctly it will pull the weapon in tight to the body so that printing is at a minimum. I actually carry IWB when shooting at the local IPSC match I go to every Tuesday night for the purpose of practicing getting the weapon out and on target with two rounds center mass as fast as I possibly can. Funny thing is, I do this with every Holster design I make because if I can't get a weapon into play without issues then I refuse to make it for someone else. But I'm of mind if I can, then so can everyone else on this planet with practice. again I do see your point and respect it, but don't agree with it...