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This is all very true. I'm a big proponent of the Eco-Flo dyes and Satin Shene, but I'm only making belts, wallets, covers, etc. With a couple of coats of Satin Shene on top, Eco-Flo dyes are water resistant -- which means occasional exposure to a few drops of rain, etc. I've never had a problem with Eco-Flo under those circumstances. BUT, if I was building something that might get significant exposure to water like a holster or a motorcycle seat, etc., I think continuing to use spirit dyes makes sense. But I still wouldn't dye before molding. If you want the inside of the holster to be black, I'd either use a dauber post-construction, or I'd think about a dip-dye method... Just my 2 cents! (If it's even worth that much!) :pirate2: Alex

Absolutely beautiful, as usual, Bruce. Someone's gonna be proud to have that thing on their waist! -Alex

I'm not surprised the customer likes it, for only 60 bucks. I think considering the quality of your work, you'll be charging more soon!

INCREDIBLE.

Maxx, for those of us who might like to try a simple mask, could you explain the basics? I guess the main question is how to do the molding. I imagine you'd buy some sort of human head mold from a craft store and use that for the basic form. But how do you get the other contours, like the eyebrows, etc.? I'd appreciate any info you're willing to share. Regards, -Alex

Hey, Freak, that's nice of you to say. BTW, it was this badge you posted that originally got me interested in the Eco-Flo dyes. I was blown away by the colors you were able to achieve! Yes, it's definitely a nice, vivid orange. This was Ranger Tan right out of the bottle. On some test pieces, I've found you can knock down the orange tone by adding a few drops of Java Brown to produce a nice saddle tan. If you're curious about the Eco-Flo dyes, you should definitely give them a try. In my experience, they're easier to apply (i.e. - get the correct color) than spirit dyes. Plus, there's no buffing required, since the dye pigment is liquid, not suspended pigment particles, as with the spirit dyes. On the downside, Eco-Flo dyes are more sensitive to water and some finishing products, like Lexol.

Instead of trying to remove the dot, I wonder if the best thing to do is to use acrylic paints to paint over your dye job... Just a suggestion...

I appreciate the kind words, Kevin. It's nice to get praise from one of Leatherworker.net's wallet masters. Thanks, Warren. I've lived my entire life in the Southeast hill country, and most of our craft work, whether it's leather, pottery, or furniture, is clean and simple. While I love admiring ornate leatherwork with brilliant colors or extensive carving, it's just not in my blood to do it that way. I just try to keep my lines straight, my stamping minimal, and my stitching even, and that way I don't get into trouble. :biggrin:

Another masterpiece. If I like the "plain Jane" version this much, I can't wait to see what you do with a dressed up version!

I second the call for more pics! That's clearly beautiful work you've posted already. It's great to have you here! -Alex

Thanks for the nice comments, everyone. And thanks for the link, B.L. I'm afraid I'm not very political, though, and certainly not the poster child for the "green" movement. But for those of us who spend nine hours a day looking at a computer screen and call it "work", it's kind of nice to have a hobby that doesn't require technology to enjoy!

A few years back, I visited Colonial Williamsburg's Harness Shop and was inspired by the leatherworkers who were producing really beautiful work without the benefit of electricity and modern technology. Since I'm a hobbyist doing leatherwork more for fun than for profit, I decided to ditch my Dremel tool, forego a sewing machine, and try my hand at doing things the old-fashioned way. Lately, I've been able to make my projects even "greener" by trying Tandy's new Eco-Flo line. I think this is my first wallet where I've used 100% Eco-Flo products. The color is Ranger Tan, the finish is Satin Shene, and it's held together with Leather Weld. One thing's for certain, I don't miss the strong fumes of spirit dyes or contact cement! So, I guess this is my attempt at a "green" wallet: handmade using no electricity and finished with environmentally friendly dye, finish and glue. The only synthetic component is the nylon thread, and since my workshop has no windows, I used some electricity in lighting (although, I recently changed most of the bulbs over to CFL). I'm not gutsy enough to do leatherwork by candlelight yet. :biggrin: If you have any comments, questions or criticism, please fire away! Regards, -Alex

That's wild. You clearly have the patience of a saint. Incredible work, I've never seen anything like it -- thanks for sharing. Alex

Pat, I've never used the Hi-Lite Color Stains, but I can comment on the Eco Flo Leather Dyes. Maybe the tips below can help with the stains, or maybe you'd like to try some of the dye... Ranger Tan (2600-07) produces a really rich saddle-tan-like color... I've found there are definitely some techniques for getting a uniform color with Eco Flo dyes, and the #1 rule is: don't use a wool dauber! I think the best technique is to use an airbrush. If you're not interested in that, then I'd dampen a kitchen sponge, ring all of the water out of it, and then use it to apply the dye. Be sure to apply a little dye at a time in circular motions -- don't load the leather up on the very first pass, build the color up. The result should be slightly darker than you want the finished piece; it will lighten up when it dries. One final tip is to add a light coat of pure neatsfoot oil when the leather is completely dry (usually the next day). Even though this will darken the color a bit, it also seems to even it out. As Freak mentions, always try out new techniques on scrap. It took me several hours of playing around with the new Eco Flo line to figure out what worked for me. Don't give up yet! Good luck, -Alex

Those look fantastic. Beautiful, rich color and impecable craftsmanship -- Really nice! Alex

Looks like you nailed this one! What a beauty! -Alex

Well done! I like 'em all!

sweet (drool)

Congratulations, and good luck with your new store! Best, -Alex

Thanks for the intro, and welcome to Leatherworker.net! -Alex

Wow. Not much to critique. I love the pattern layout with all the curves -- really professional looking. And the contrasting mahogany color on the interior is a really nice touch. Most folks put the darker color on the exterior and sometimes leave the interior the natural color. But I really like the way you did it. About the only additional tool I'd suggest for your growing collection might be a stitching groover. Using one will allow your stitches to sit just below the surface of the leather, both protecting them and making your stitching line look even better. Tandy sells a couple of different types, and I have the adjustable one and the freehand one. One thing I'll say -- your work already has a distinctive look to it. It's obvious that you're taking the time to execute some unique designs. I really look forward to seeing more of your work. Be sure to post some pics of those wallets when done! Regards, -Alex

John, I'm surprised to hear that it's the edge dye that's bleeding through. I've had regular leather dye slip in under the painter's tape, but never the edge dye. If you're not using it already, try switching over to Fiebing's EdgeKoat. It's got a thicker consistency than regular dye and can be slicked like gum tragacanth. I put mine on very carefully using a Q-Tip (which is really slow), but I'm sure it would work fine using one of those sponge-tipped brushes, too. Good luck! -Alex

Very nice! It's definitely got that distinctive SteveB look to it.

TZ, Spirit dyes also have some propensity for "rub off" because the dye consists of pigment micro-particles suspended in alcohol. If you decide to use these dyes, be sure to buff well before applying your final finish. Although Lexol and neatsfoot oil condition leather and preserve it, they won't seal. Use a final finish on top... My favorites are Satin Shene for stamped/carved items or Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax for smooth leather. By the way, I've found that the new water-based Eco-Flo dyes have practically no rub-off since the pigment is liquid (and not suspended particles), but the trade-off is that they're more sensitive to water, so be sure to seal, preferably using Satin Shene. I hope this information helps, and if you have more questions, please be sure to ask! Regards, -Alex

Good to have you here, and thanks for posting your pics. I look forward to seeing more of your work! Regards, -Alex