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Dude, welcome! That is some truly spectacular stuff you have posted on your web site -- you definitely have a unique style. Please don't be a stranger. Some folks visit once, post a few pictures, tantalize us all, and then disappear. Be sure to stick around and continue to post pics of your new projects. Best, -Alex

Great question, Regis. I'm sure others have their tips, but here are some of the things I look for. The leather's color is light, and hasn't been exposed to sunlight. The leather's in good condition, with few cuts, abrasions, or hard areas. (You'll need to check the flesh side for hidden cuts.) The leather's surface feels porous, not slick. A super smooth surface usually indicates oils that will have to be stripped. The leather's thickness is as advertised, and consistent throughout the side. I'm sure I'm leaving out a few things. After a while, you'll be able to figure out which hides are the good ones simply by a quick glance. After you see your share of rough sides, the really nice ones will stand out. -Alex

Thanks for the kind words. Here's my formula for getting the best out of Satin Shene: Apply the lightest first coat you can using a small piece of cotton rag. Let dry 10 minutes. Apply the lightest second coat you can. Let dry 10 minutes and then buff with a dry cotton rag. Apply the lightest third coat you can, let dry 10 minutes and buff again. Then let the piece dry overnight. Big mistakes I've made in the past are applying fewer heavier coats (frankly, this is a no-no for any finish) or not waiting for each coat to fully dry. Also, you probably already know this, but be sure to try out any new finish on a piece of scrap to make sure you get the effect you want. That's a truly beautiful album, and you want to be 100% satisfied with your finish. Best, -Alex

Wow. Very nice!

For convenience I purchase my leather exclusively from Tandy, but as Art mentions, I always take a look at it in the store. Out of every 10 double shoulders, there will be one or two that I'll like. Tandy carries both domestic (Live Oak) and imported (Oak Leaf) sides. Look at both, because there will be times that the imported stuff is even better than the more expensive domestic leather. If you don't have a store near you and have to mail-order, then the companies that the fellas mention above would probably be a good bet. Regards, -Alex

Dang, that's nice! What's your technique for getting that variable darkening of the suede? Airbrush? Regardless, great work! -Alex

I'm a Satin Shene fan myself. p.s. Here's a thread with some good discussion on the different finishes.

It's good to have you here, Gilles! I like the project pictures you've posted so far, please share more when you can! Regards, -Alex

I'll attempt to challenge your knowledge more thoroughly next time! Thanks again!

Thanks for the reply. That's certainly a lot cheaper than replacing the printer.

I have an old HP LaserJet 1100 printer that I used to have connected to an old laptop via parallel cable (I think that's what it's called -- that wide cable). The printer works just fine and I'd like to connect it to the new laptop -- but, you guessed it, no parallel connection, just USB. And I can't find a USB connection on the printer. Is there a simple solution to this problem? Thanks for any help, -Alex

Extremely well-done. Thanks for sharing these pics!

Chris, Reading your post reminded me of when I started out in leatherwork. Most of what I produced ended up in the garbage can, and I got really, really frustrated at times. When I got really teed-off, I did what you did -- I took a break, sometimes for several months. I swore off leatherwork at least a couple of times, and even threw out all my tools once! :ranting: However, if you stick with it, things will get easier. Two "attitude adjustments" helped me: (1) If leatherwork is your hobby, do it for fun and to relax. Don't let work or personal problems creep in on that time and cause stress. Check those problems at the door of your workshop. (2) Your projects don't have to be perfect. I finally came to accept that each thing I produce is going to have what I call "birth marks" -- little blemishes or imperfections here or there. Man, celebrate that stuff -- you're doing the best work God allows you, and each birth mark makes a project unique. It sounds like you've received some good advice above on making some contacts in your area. I hope it all works out for you, and don't be shy about posting and asking questions along the way! -Alex

Beez, that's fantastic news! Congratulations, and let's hope this is the first of many Easyriders covers to come! Regards, -Alex :beer:

Beautiful work there, Jim. Thanks for showing those pics. -Alex

Kevin, I think it's great that your little boy hangs out with you in the shop. That T-Rex is a really neat idea! Best, -Alex

I'm familiar with Dave's outstanding work from another online forum. If anyone has any questions about inlaying (or other topics for that matter), Dave's a great resource to ask, as you can probably tell from his pics. -Alex

Welcome, Rick! I love the sheath for the Case pocket knife. Color is beautiful, the stitching is perfect and the buffalo nickel concho snap provides just the right accent. Great work, and glad to have you here! Regards, -Alex

I think probably the best way to learn is through a mentor, who can give you inspiration, show you techniques and answer questions. But they're so hard to find, and most are too busy to be of much assistance. In the absence of a good mentor, I haven't found anything that's more informative than a good online community like Leatherworker.net. I've always gotten good answers to my questions -- and have even been able to offer some advice of my own on occasion! It's interesting to read topics on so many different subjects, and I find myself learning something new almost every day. The other options listed (books, videos, magazines, etc.) are all fine ways to learn, too, but there's no interaction. For example, if you have a follow-up question to the material presented, tough luck. Also, you're only getting the author's opinion... Here on Leatherworker.net, you post a question and you may get all kinds of different opinions -- all equally valid -- on the best way to do something. Best of all, this site is a free resource! (However, contributions are appreciated to keep the server running, and consequently, the doughnuts that sit on top of it warm.) I've enjoyed getting to know everyone here and thank the Leatherworker.net team for setting this site up. Regards, -Alex

Dave, thanks for taking the time to write all that up. I'm into hand-stitching myself, but it's nice to know that a company like Artisan exists, as well as some of the advantages of your machines and your service. If I ever decide to give my fingers a rest, I'll keep Artisan in mind. Regards, -Alex

I'd say he failed that test! :biggrin:

Yeah, I remember those lean months last summer when the forum was just getting started. Luckily, we picked up a whole bunch of new members in the fall and carrying over into the spring that have been great contributors here. Glad to see you back -- you do beautiful work. Regards, -Alex

JWU, Looks like you put a bit of everything on that project! Plus, it sounds like you're poised to add Pecard's to the mix! You know, lots of folks have incredibly complex concoctions for dyeing and finishing, but it can be simple, too. Here's what I do, in order: 1. Apply a coat of Lexol to condition the leather, let dry 10 minutes, and then buff with a cotton rag. (I apply the Lexol first, because it can lift the Eco-Flo stains I use.) 2. Apply Tandy Eco-Flo All-In-One Stain and Finish, and immediately buff off the excess. Repeat if necessary, but gently -- the second coat can lift the first one and make a mess of your project. Let this dry a couple of hours. 3. Lightly -- very lightly -- apply three coats of Tandy's Satin Shene, letting each coat dry 10 minutes before applying the next. Finally, buff with a soft cotton rag. In my experience, this leaves a nice, water-resistant color. I'm attaching a photo of a recent project done this way, using the Acorn Brown color. Now, I'll be willing to bet that with 500+ members here, you could get 500+ opinions on the best way to apply a finish. But, as a beginner, I'd encourage you to pick one stain, and then a complementary conditioner and finish, and see what you can do with it. Always play around on scrap -- don't try something for the first time on a finished product, no matter how tempting. Plus, try to educate yourself on the compatibility and the advantages/disadvantages of all these products. For example, mixing spirit dyes with water isn't optimal (as Don alluded to), and putting both acrylic and wax-based finishes on the same item may not be the best way to a good finish. The good news is you're on the road to figuring this out by asking questions here. For more info, you can also buy and try products on scrap, and ask lots of questions at your local Tandy store. Good luck! -Alex

Patrice, thanks for the introduction and for sharing your photo! You've been a valuable contributor here since you joined, and I enjoy reading your posts. Glad to have you here! -Alex

Yeah -- fantastic work. Love that rope bag! Regards, -Alex