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Shirley, Thanks for the kind words, but I can't take any credit for the color. The new All-In-One stains make it so easy a caveman can do it. Seriously, I hated spirit dyes. Mainly my fault -- I never made the effort to try different mixes or application techniques. I just used the provided dauber and slogged it on straight out of the bottle, and then the cussin' starts. :ranting: I got so downtrodden over my results that I went for about 12 months and the only color I'd use was black. I think all of us have our strengths and weaknesses. For example, I'm a pretty good hand-stitcher. But I can't carve or color worth a damn. So, I look for the easy ways when I can! Have a great weekend! -Alex

Dunc, welcome to the forums! Glad to have you here. There are a couple of motorcycle seat experts here, and a few folks like yourself who are just starting to build 'em. Lots of good knowledge being exchanged. I'd love to see some pics of your first seat when you get around to posting them. I can't answer your question about patterns since I don't make this kind of stuff -- just wanted to welcome you and give you kudos on a sweet bike. Regards, -Alex

Spectacular work! That is truly beautiful!

Wow -- that's really beautiful work. Congrats! -Alex

Pete, thanks for the kind words. The lines were cut with a Craftool Adjustable Groover. They show up nice and dark thanks to the Eco-Flo All-In-One Stain. The All-In-One stuff, unlike the dyes, will highlight grooved lines and stamped tooling. Oh, definitely before. Lexol will lift water-based dyes and stains, so I apply a liberal coat of Lexol before dyeing. If you have to apply Lexol after the dye job has been done, make sure the dye dries overnight and then use a really light touch. Yeah, Beez, I was thinking about you when I mentioned this belt was for me. However, you haven't been a total leatherwork martyr... I think you made yourself a motorcycle seat not too long ago, and a nice one, too! Thanks again for the comments, -Alex

Great question, Pete. I'd be curious about this, as well.

Yeah, I wasn't sure I was going to like the buckle's brushed, antiqued look since I've always used polished buckles, but Tandy didn't give me a choice in 1-1/4" nickel-plated, so I had to try this one out. I kind of like it. Thanks for all the comments, fellas. Much appreciated. Regards, -Alex

Here's my latest belt recipe: * 1-1/4" belt blank * antique nickel-plated, solid brass buckle * two chicago screws * Fudge Brown Eco-Flo color * Fiebing's EdgeKote (Black) * one coat of Lexol * three coats of Satin Shene Mix ingredients, combining with a healthy portion of elbow grease. p.s. After giving away my last few projects, this one's gonna ride on my waist for a change!

This is a good suggestion -- Tandy's Wholesale Club costs $35, and on average, starts saving you money if you spend more than $150-200 per year. My club membership usually pays for itself on the first or second order. -Alex

S.B., All in all, nice work. For the thickness of leather you're using, it seems like you're getting pretty good definition in your molding. Like you, I'm mystified as to how some folks are able to get more detail out of their wet molding... Maybe one of our resident experts will weight in on this. Regarding the use of a satin acrylic finish, let's tackle the glossy issue first. Be sure to buff your black surface before adding the finish so that it's quite dull. (If your dyed surface is satin prior to adding the Satin Shene, it may turn glossy on you.) Also, be sure to buff after adding the finish to knock down some of the shine. One more idea -- if your leather is a bit shiny, use denatured alcohol to gently strip those oils and restore the natural surface. I'd play around with scrap pieces to figure out how to solve this problem. Adding very light coats of Satin Shene, and letting them dry completely (10 minutes) between coats should help your peeling issue. However, Satin Shene is not the most durable finish out there and can wear with friction, so I've stopped using it on the inside of my wallets. If necessary, you might consider switching to a wax-based finish, like Fiebing's Leather Balm w/ Atom Wax. Congrats on your holster! Regards, -Alex

Welcome! Please do post pics soon... I look forward to seeing what "neo-retro" looks like! Best, -Alex

Welcome, Steve! Lots of beginners like the starter tool sets from Tandy which provide a good mallet, some stamps, punches and other basic tools you'll need. You might consider investing in one. Also, you probably already have an idea of what you might like to make -- whether it's a wallet or a knife sheath or something else. If a Tandy kit exists, you may want to buy the kit to get a general idea of how construction goes. As you mention, books and videos never hurt, and neither does asking questions here on Leatherworker.net. Good luck! -Alex

Marcel, Welcome to the forums. I believe one of our members, Don101, is based in Germany. Hopefully, he'll happen across your post before too long and be able to provide some advice regarding suppliers in your area. Good luck! -Alex

Wow, those are really nice. Thanks for sharing the pics, and... Regards, -Alex

Patrice, I use painter's tape on the backside of the belts and wristbands I do, and it works really well with water-based dyes like Eco-Flo or even Fiebing's EdgeKote. I haven't experienced any problems with the color bleeding under the tape. As T.C. notes, pulling the tape off will make the back side more nappy, but I like that soft feel anyway. Give it a try and see if it works for you. Best, -Alex

Welcome, Julie!

Another vote for dyeing after the shape has been molded...

Kate, thanks for the update. T.C., these are indeed water-based, so you'll need to put two or three light coats of Satin Shene over top of the dyed surface to reduce the possibility of bleeding.

T.C., I don't dye the insides of belts or wristbands -- I just leave 'em natural and like that look. However, here are a few threads in which this was discussed, as well as some options for sealing in the color if you do decide to dye the insides of your projects. http://www.leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=707 http://www.leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=282 I hope this information helps! -Alex p.s. Wolvenstien has a point -- If you're satisfied with the end product and so is the customer, why bother?

Nicely done! -Alex

:biggrin:

That is truly beautiful. Thanks for sharing. Alex

Al, better late than never. Thanks for introducing yourself, and feel free to jump in on any topic to ask questions or offer advice. Best, -Alex

Amazing, as usual. Congratulations on a pair of beautiful projects! -Alex

Please feel free to ask questions... Lots of talented folks here who are willing to share their thoughts and experiences. Regards, -Alex