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Regis, I know what Kate is referring to when she mentions large holes, etc., since that was my experience with these types of tools. However, your stitches look just fine to my eyes, so if what you're doing is working for you, I say keep on doing it! Best, -Alex

I agree with the Major... Posting some pictures might spark a few ideas on the best way to remedy the problem... I'd hate for you to lose so much effort...

Johanna, many thanks for taking the time to take and then post the photos. Lots of nice work there.

That's absolutely fantastic work, Don. Thanks for sharing, and please be sure to post images of future projects. We always like to look at quality leatherwork!

Ed, I'm very interested in the results of your testing, so please continue to share your observations. Thanks for starting this topic. -Alex

Funny you fellas should mention this... I set aside this past month of January to build myself a wallet, keycase, key fob and belt. I was always hesitant to mention to folks that I was a leatherworker for fear that they would point at my Wal-Mart belt and ask, "Is that one of yours?" Now that I'm wearing my own stuff, I feel a little bit better about talking leather, especially since I always have a sample around my waist or in my pocket. Plus, it's good to treat ourselves to something nice every once in a while, right? p.s. Really nice work, Beez. Spectacular.

Kate, yes, I'm just interested in seeing the construction methods and the keycase pattern. Thanks in advance for sharing! -Alex

I understand the benefits of actually seeing a leather product in person, but I guess I'd always envisioned a show taking place entirely online. Competitors would post the best pictures possible, and the members would vote via polls for the winners. Otherwise, how would we get good judges? Ideally, a judge should be very knowledgeable in the field they're judging. Take me, for example. I could take a look at a carving and tell you which one appeals most to me aesthetically, but I'd have a hard time awarding points based on technique or relative complexity of the piece. Just don't have that kind of knowledge....

I think this is a great idea, and had wondered about it before, but was wise enough to keep my mouth shut to avoid Johanna tasking me with it! Regardless, I'd like to see this or a similar competition take place each year in June to celebrate the anniversary of Leatherworker.net. (We have to do something special, don't we??) Also, I think there should be a Member's Choice category, maybe completely unrestricted, with holsters, pool cue cases and motorcycle seats all competing against each other, and members voting in a poll for the winner. I'd be glad to help with this, so just let me know... Best, -Alex

Kate, when you're finished, I'd love to see some pictures of the full exterior and interior, if possible. I'd like to try a keycase, and I'm curious about construction methods... Best, -Alex

You know, not too long ago, I read that many of the pioneering Native American potters didn't sign their work, either. I think they felt it was some sort of a vanity, and that the unique styles and distinctions of their work would be the most proper way to identify the maker. I don't necessarily agree (and most modern potters are now signing their work), but it's an interesting point of view. Stylistically, couldn't we all identify a BMW, even if it didn't have a nameplate? Or an Randall knife? Or a Chihuly vase? I suppose I'm just talking about the "holy grail" of leatherwork -- when someone knows it's your piece just from the workmanship and style.

You can also apply Gum Tragacanth to the flesh side and slick it for a professional appearance that won't allow any dye rub-off...

Really beautiful -- thanks for sharing. I don't think I've ever seen a buckle like that one before with that fixed peg in the middle...

Keep up the good work!

Wow -- really nice. Congratulations!

Johanna, great topic. I really struggled with the idea of creating a maker's mark. And Infinity's web site didn't make things any easier. They have all kinds of examples of unique maker stamps (check out these samples) and the classic saddler's stamp (more samples). I debated the choices: using last name only... Or a web address... Or some sort of brand name... Or a custom logo... In the end, I decided to go with something very understated and simple: my initials in 1/8" tall text. My avatar is a close-up of this mark. (I also attach an example of how it looks on a project.) I've been using it for a while and like it. It works well in small spaces, and gives just a hint of who made the item (for those of us who are a bit bashful ). I definitely look forward to seeing what other folks post. -Alex

Johanna, Cleanup work like this pays big dividends in the future when it comes to maintaining the board, so GOOD WORK! Thanks for all that you do to make this an outstanding resource for leatherworkers. :biggrin: Best, -Alex

Ed, Fiebings Edge Kote in a brown color might work for what you're doing, but it's definitely not the rubbery edge coating that you see on commercial products, like handbags. It goes on thicker than dye and is easy to slick, but dries to become a hard, slick edge, not a gummy, soft one. It's also a much better product for vegtan than chromed leathers, in my experience. Maybe Bill's suggestion is the right one for exactly replicating the commercial look. If you end up finding this kind of edge coating, please let us know here, as I suspect others might be interested in it. -Alex p.s. Edge Kote is flexible. I use it on wallet backs and wristbands with no problems.

Ed, I agree with everything Bruce says above. I work on small projects over long periods of time, and consequently I have leather laying around sometimes for years. I have a double shoulder I've been using for about a year. I keep it rolled up grain side in. Bruce's recommendation of finding a dark closet is a good one. Even though my workspace doesn't have a window, I've found that over time, even when rolled, the lightbulbs have suntanned the leather somewhat, darkening it a bit and making it harder. I'd definitely make sure I had a dark and dry place before investing in 20 sides! -Alex

Whinewine, thanks for clarifying. Now, a question on the Preval units -- is this something that should be done outside? I might like to try something like that, but would prefer not to blast the whole room with a new coat of British Tan...

I've found, especially with the 4 oz. dye bottles, that if you don't shake them, then you have to throw away the last 25% of the bottle because it's so pigment-loaded. Otherwise, the pigment-loaded dye gives the leather a glazed-over look, and you'll literally wear yourself out trying to buff all that stuff off the surface. I always shake the bottle... I always use the dauber... and consequently, I always end up with really dark shades. I think the combination of cutting the dye with dye reducer and using an air brush are probably the best options for folks wanting a lighter color. -Alex

Here's to you, Clay! Hope you enjoy a great birthday! Best wishes, -Alex

Holy cow. Look at those prices.

Ed, I use waxed nylon thread which is a bit slick, so to make sure the backstitches never come loose, I put about a quarter-drop of Super Glue on a stitching needle and lightly glaze the top of those stitches. That pretty much instantly welds them together, and they'll never come loose. I figured I'd share this tip in case you're looking for an option other than thread burning. Good luck, -Alex

Ed, may I ask what prompts your question? Are you worried that the back-stitching won't hold, or do you not like the look of doubled-over stitches? Just curious, -Alex