Big O

I use 4/5 oz veg tan for the outer shell, and 1.5/2oz already dyed pigskin for the interior. I use a single line 24 snap set as a closure, with the male end on the front of the outer shell and the female end on a tab extending 1-3/4" from the rear edge, about 1/3 of the way down from the top. As opposed to the traditional two snaps, with the male ends going through the outermost interior piece. On the tab side, I have 6 credit card slots attached to a flat bill compartment. Split down the middle, with three on each side. Just cut three progressively smaller pieces with the top edge shaped like a handlebar moustache, glue the bottom portions to each other at the appropriate depth, and put a single stitch line right up the middle, then stitch the whole shebang around the edge to the outer shell. On the front side, I have the traditional "bellows" bill pocket attached in the traditional manner to a flat bill compartment, forming a card pocket in between the two. One 3/8" grommet on either end along the spine, for folks that like to attach chains. The reason for two instead of one is that you can carry it on either side, and still have the chain attached to the front edge, while positioning the snap toward the outside of the pocket away from your tender fourth point of contact. I like making the wallets, but it seems a bit labor-intensive with all that hand stitching. Makes me consider getting a simple, relatively light-duty sewing machine like one of the old Singers.

Edges are nothing short of AWESOME!

Very basic Delrin stamp.

Beautiful! What material did you use for the shoulder straps? I made one rig entirely out of 5/7 oz horsehide, and cut the straps 1" wide. Definitely too narrow and rigid. Then I made another with wide, contoured straps cut out of suede. Much more comfortable, but I worry about durability.

I find the design concept for those first two black holsters interesting, and very attractive, but I'd probably round off the corners for aesthetics. Curious as to what the back looks like.

I've found that Springfield's black drum-dyed horse butts make decent Lobo-style enhanced pancake holsters. Also IWB mag pouches.

Beautiful! (even if seeing the outline of the trigger itself in the molding gives me the heebie jeebies)

Holy crap, MacGuyver! When the zombies come, can I hang out with you?

Nice edges.

Nice work! I'm going to guess that your planned tweaks are the stitch line, the pointy corner at the bottom back corner of the reinforcement piece, maybe a little more grip clearance, and moving the belt channel down by two leather thicknesses to make up for the automagic shift that always seems to happen.....

The reinforcement piece that wraps nearly ALL the way around the holster mouth surely helps. Another thing you can do is to force-dry the holster with heat after molding. The good thing about that is that it increases rigidity. The bad thing about that is that it increases rigidity.....in a holster that's going to be pressed against your body by your belt...... I've taken to using horsehide almost exclusively for IWB holsters. It tends to be more rigid, either with or without force-drying.

That's very good for a first holster. About the reinforcement piece - I'm thinking you might want to move it forward rather than making it smaller. When it goes across the front bend of the holster (along the top of the slide), it tends to help hold the holster mouth open....which is the point of the reinforcement piece.

That's some top-notch work there, and a VERY attractive AND functional piece of gunleather.

PM sent.

I just use a cardboard box about twice the size of a shoebox in every dimension. I use a wooden or plastic ruler through the belt slots/loops of my holsters, and prop the work up at an angle inside the box. Then I put an ordinary handheld hair dryer about 1.5 feet in front of the box, turn it on "high", and let it go for 30 minutes. Then check on the progress. Sometimes it needs another 15 minutes.

There's not a whole lot of leather left at the top of that belt slot.... ....and that's a pretty heavy revolver.... With that sole exception, though, looks very sturdy.

Very clean work!

I remember hearing about a place where the native language has 19 different words for snow. Don't remember where. Don't much care. I'd rather know about the place where they don't even have ONE word for snow.....

Very creative. I'm still trying to figure out how one would draw the pistol from those holsters, though.

Very nice!

Manila folders. It doesn't make sense for me to try to re-use a pattern, because I make every one of my holsters to order, customized for ride height and angle. And my volume is ridiculously low, maybe 2-3 a month.

If it's a very popular model that I just don't have yet, I'll just go ahead and buy it. (Example: Ruger LCP) If it's a moderately popular one, and I have at least TWO people wanting holsters, I'll go ahead and buy it. (Example: S&W M&P) Otherwise, I'll offer to design/mold the holster from the customer's pistol (if local), or ask him to either pay for the blue gun or order at least two holsters. (But this is just a hobby for me so far)

Seems to me it'd be pretty much the same as figuring stitch lines. For a flat-backed pancake, add the width of the gun plus twice the thickness of the leather. For a pancake molded on both sides, half that.

I'm guessing your friend found another solution.....

The thing that's stopped me from making one of those so far is that I can't figure out how to design the reinforcement piece. I mean, on an Avenger, it's fairly simple: you just draw it on the pattern and cut it out after you've marked and cut the holster body. With the pancake, though, you've got TWO body patterns, and no clear indication of how the reinforcement piece will fold.