$$hobby

for what its worth there are glues out there that can be temperature sensitive. when i worked at my cousins store they sold a crap load of "tug o war" glue. It was a like a milky latex base? and customers used it to patch up their worn carharts. But one order was received when it froze either on our end or the shippers end. we didnt know until some customer came in with the bottle they purchased and it came out clumpy or like runny cottage cheese. My cousin checked the mfg if there was any freezing issues and there was so it was ordered before our winters and hopefully enough to cover until our spring. @op, if it was me, i would just get what you can get locally and do some testing on some leather. There were some suggestions from the UK/Sweden and depending on where you live in France, it could be a Eurostar train ride away or maybe a ferry ride. to me it would be good reason to get out of dodge and maybe do some shopping. Also, i think when i was in Amsterdam one time there was something like a leather trade show going on. I didnt realize leatherwork was big enough to have a show in Europe, but i guess if you have a handfull of people from several countries in Europe, it could be a big and nice show. have fun with the glue...

welcome, I noticed you are outside of the USA, so any leather craft place maybe hard to find. but if you have any leather craft places where you live i would check there first. Some may have some bonded leather samples just like they would with leather dyes. for what its worth, i prefer Barge Cement. its is a contact cement. If you have not worked with a contact cement, you more or less apply a thin coat to both sides and let dry/get tacky and put the glued faces together. Its more or less a 1 time shot. So no do-overs. If you do end up using it, i would have some practice pieces and see what you think. I know you can buy a toothpaste size tube if you dont want to invest in a can if you are not sure. But not sure if you can find it outside of the USA. You can try Amazon.EU? Barge is also smelly, so if you decide to use it, i would use it in a well vented room or outside. also for what its worth, for a wallet, i would be picky on whats used. I had used some glue on a wallet and after a time, the glue failed but ended up gooey and if you can imagine it not staying put but creeping to where the notes were kept.

just some thoughts... im sure you have some home improvement stores or shops where they have equipment for construction? have you looked at what types of belts/holster and such are out there with a clip you are looking for ? If you examine the clip, you may find a stamp/makers mark and that may give you a lead of where to start or look for the mfg. also, you say you want bulk, but dont want 1k of them? imo, you may want to figure out how many you want and be willing to pay. have you contacted the seller with the 7 buck versions and asked about "bulk" quantities - whatever that number is to you? YOu maybe able to negotiate some lower price where both of you are happy. Also, im not sure what type of metal stampings places you have where you live, but have you checked with any of them? Many shops have websites now adays and if you look at some, they may show something that is made or maybe something similar. last comment. Im not sure what your endgame is for the clips, but you maybe able to fabricate your own. It will require more work on your part, but once you buy the equipment and figure out the forming/drilling process making them will be easy. You could buy a manual press something like a bushing press or something as heavy duty as some type of hand pump hydraulic press.

welcome, some places you can investigate.... > Sail makers. They may use zippers to make sail covers. Some maybe zippered, some snapped. But let your fingers to the walking.. > upholstery shops. Again, some may use bulk zipper for upholstery. > Look for fabric shops in your area. > last comment. If you dont get any results, ASK the person you are calling if they have any idea/contacts.

welcome, sorry to tell you no matter the shipper, you will find someone with some sob story. i know you want guarantees, but you will need to pay for it. Then again, S happens too. So if you arent willing to pay for it, then i would do my due diligence and check shipping charges via all options and then make a decision. for what its worth, ive shipped stuff back home for Europe and S.America. Even form places like ITaly where its said that everyones a crook and the postal service more so. But i guess i was lucky in that i actually got my packages. And the funny thing is that i usually use their version of the USPS too boot. fwiw, im downsizing and selling my toys. I do my due diligence and check the price on all carriers. but so far the USPS is a good deal if i dont want to use ground. Most of the times UPS is good for ground. But what i do is to look at the cost of Ground, 2nd or 3 day and the USPS Ground and priority. its not like you cant do a shipping estimate. I try not to eat the cost of shipping since i will add up over time. At one time i was just estimating to cover USA, AK/Hi and call it good, but now im just doing actual cost. It wil vary with distance so the buyer will need to provide me with zip and then i can tell them about the shipping cost. ALso, usually the difference between UPS ground vs USPS Priority mail is < 20 bucks at least what i have been shipping. I will also state when i was estimating costs to ship, i would get a cost/estimate from my location to WDC, AK, HI. If AK/HI were > 20 bucks than i would have separate prices for USA and outside. also, fwiw, i sent about 10+ USPS Priority mail boxes up to Nova Scotia to a tack shop up there. he got them all. here are some hints i use on my travels when i ship stuff home. Its up to you if you want to use or not. You can cherry pick too. > i make preprinted labels for my home address and bring them with me. That way no one has to read my crappy hand writing. i also add "USA" to the bottom. > everything i send back, i put into those plastic shopping bags. THen i tape it closed and apply one of those labels on the bag. That way if the box is crushed/torn open, the contents may not fall out. Also, if the side with the label is damages, there is a label on the bag inside. If i dont have a plastic bag, then i use a paper bag. But i always wrap things up into another bag and its tapped so that things cant fall out if the box is breeched. > i will use some clear tape on the label. So that the label stays on when its running along on the conveyors. Also by using clear tape on the label, its not just the label but i will 1+ complete loop of that clear tape over the label.

yes, put a location in your profile. rant on....people that join boards and dont put a location doesnt help those that are trying to help....rant off and not just leatherworkers. but you can look at bulk zipper and just add the pull. IMO you dont need to have precut zippers with ends. you can buy whatever you can estimate you will need and jsut fudge to have some extra in case you screw up. And then just buy zipper pulls.

welcome, Just something to consider if you want to ship things.... >depending on how you ship, you maybe able to get by inexpensively. > you need to remember about the exchange rate. > ive shipped stuff back home from most of my travels and that includes the UK. But for me and the exchange rate, it was more due the value of the USD vs GBP or lack of. > so if you can look at other countries on your continent where the GBP is in your favor you maybe able to get some reasonable shipping. When i was in Prague, i was shipping shoe box size of things back to the USA for about 30 USD. > Also so far in most of the places i have visited i have used the local Post Office. I think in Germany DHL is their local Post Office, so i used them too ,but as you know they are on the Euro. > Also most if not all of the places i have used the local Post Office, they had options of Express or Economy. Of course i used Economy. And i have yet to have any 1 package to get lost.

instead of giving you a long list of possilbe tool, i would suggest you look for some books on the subject. Or if you have time look for a tandys shop/leather shop in your area and see what they say. Some may have classes so you can use their tools while learning. Depending on how you will fasten the sheath, will dictate on what type of tool you will use. I wouldn't worry about this for now. Also, even if you get some starter kit with so-so tools, you may find that over time, you can still use them. They may require more attention but they may not be so bad/inferior that you wont be able to use them. for what its worth when i learned some leather craft in Jr. High School back in the mid 70s, the instructor had Tandy tools. All of the tools were tandys. At that time you could get a "starter kit" and being a teacher/student he could get them at a discount for anyone that wanted them. Also, all of the tools in the class had gone through X many years of use and thats with students. if you remember when you were that young, chances are you didnt take care of things - especially things that were not yours. Also what i have learned is that if the tools are made to do what they are suppose to do and if you take care of them and dont use them for some other purpose, chances are they will last. Again, if you have any tandy store in your area i would go there and thumb through any books they may have. Also, if you have any libraries in your area you may find leathercraft books there too. If you are not aware, that at one time, you could "order" books from other branches if they didnt have it. Its a perk. Also, if you have any bookshops in your area, i would check there too. fwiw, when it comes to reference material, i sometimes go overboard and will get a whatever books i can find. I know some people are allergic to books now or dont know how to use them, but i like them. Why? because i dont need the internet and they dont require batteries. But i would browse through as many books as you can get your hands on and see whats in them. You will need to find books on stitching, riveting or just fastening. If you have any leather goods shops in your area, you can also look there too. But maybe buy a belt and take it home and look how its done/assembled. See if you can figure out how they did it. But reverse engineering can sometime be better than a book since you have it in your hands and you can disassemble it if you want. If you are willing to browse through Tandys book you will eventually come across..... > The Art of Hand Sewing by Stohlman > How to Lace > How to make Holsters by Stohlman. but for all of the above books you will get an idea on how to do things. Note that not everyone learns the same, so you will need to figure out what works best for you. The holster making book will cover stitching/lacing, and also pattern making. But as i mentioned i have more books since i prefer them.

You can do what you want when it comes down to it. But consider what will work in the end. The word you use is "Prototype". YOu wont know until you make 1 or many "Prototypes" if what you think you want to do will work. From where i sit, it appears it will. But you could also machine sew your fittings on the canvas too. I made a briefcase type bag using Cordura 1000? But i hand sewed a leather bottom (where it would get wear) onto the cordura. I was interesting but a pain, since you more or less have to insert the inside needle blindly into the hole. Eventually you will get a "feel" for it and learn to leave the awl in and use that as your guide for the needle. but you may also stick yourself a couple or many times too. If you can apply your "fittings" before assembly, that may make it easier in the long run, but you will need to figrue that out. Again, you can do what you want. But a question to ask. IS this a 1 off type of bag or 1 of many. If this is a 1 of many, then you may want to consider your TIME it will take to make many by hand. Some other thing to do upfront is to make a pattern. YOU may want to find some rolls of butcher paper, or wrapping paper. Find some large sheets/rolls of cheap (thickish) paper and make patterns. If you have a builders square and need square corners use the right tool. If you have access to autocad/cad programs you can also make your patterens digitally. Whats nice about that is that you can change dimensions and just print a new patter. but by having a pattern, you can replicate that bag over and over. Also dont be afraid to make notes/write on the patter. Such as if you want it larger/smaller, make notes of that on what edge or edges. YOu can also make not if you use a zipper/button and its location. YOU can number edges/cordners on how it was assembled too or maybe to "hand" sew the "fittings" here and there 1st. I would get some of the materail and run it through your partners machine. Or if your partner knows anything about that machine ask or show them the material. Note that depending on what and how you make the bag, you may have maybe 2-3 pieces or more to sew togeather. the corners will be the hardest part unless your bag doesnt have a corner. what is "reasonable?" everyones wallet is a different shape/size and capacity. If you can get your hands on the material, the see if your partners machine will handle what you want to make. Then make a decision if you want/need to buy.. but dont fall into the binocular vision persons trap. Consider what you may want to make in the future as in bag shape/size and other things. If you need a machine, take your sample material out to any shops in your area and see what they have that may sew what you want. Also, bring some "fittings" too just in case they may have a machine that will do it all (at that moment) and the price may not be that different. You may also want to look at a machine that has a "reverse". many people wont touch one without. Also, maybe zigzag. Have you looked/considered how you will finish the cut edges. Canvas can/will unravel. Also, consider the size of the thread you will want to use. I think where im from they call it "waxed" or "tined" gear. I personally have not used the stuff, but im aware of the gear made with it. So as far as working with "dry", im my opinion, it maybe easier to deal with it dry so it wont muck up your or your partners machine. some comments/thoughts.... > you may need to make/assemble this bag inside out. Then once assembled, flip it to the correct side out. but this will depend on how you plan to design/assemble it. > if you have any mfg made bags, see how its made. If you can, flip it inside out and see if thats how they assembled it. > what you have going for you is that chances are its been made already. So all you need to do is to put your thnking cap on and do some reverse engineering/thinking. You can look at your shirt/pants too and see how its made. Examples are all around you too. > Will the bag have a liner? If so, this can add 1 layer of complexity. good luck

welcome... for what its worth. If you take a look at that photo you can get an idea on the whats and hows. something to keep in mind. You can put alot or as much work into this as you want and try not to do the same things as in the picture. but consider, this. A wheel is a wheel. You can put different dresses on it, but its still a wheel. Are you copying the 1st wheel? Its hard not to. Also, i use the KISS principle when i make my designs/patterns. If you look at that axe cover, i made one in the 70s in jr. high school. This was way before the internet was around and you had to read books or rags on the subject. Rags were hard to find back then on leatherwork and then in Jr. HS, i wasnt make $$ for a subscription. Since i have a background in Architecture there is a saying...."form follows function". So if you look at all of those covers, they are simple in design and do what the owner wants. KISS at its best. you can design/make a better/faster/more expensive mousetrap if you want. Again, your time. Also, you may want to keep in mind that some leathers depending on how they were processed maybe acidic and may corrode or rust your tools. on anything with an edge and if you are any of those woodworkers that knows how to sharpen his/her own tools, i personally wouldnt have a riviet(s) on that edge if that tool was dropped. Its just something "I" would not do. It may not be so safe?, but id rather not have to put a new edge on a tool if i dont have to. I would also make some type of caddy/holder for those hand chisels. Or other tools like that. then there is the saying....." Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery" good luck.

have you looked at McMaster-Carr?

For what its worth Biker, my reply was directed to the OP. If i was going to address you, i would have put something like @bikermutt07. good luck in your hobby.

welcome, Spend enough time around a barn or talk to a tack shop owner to see what they say. i have 3 1 gal cans of broken brass hardware that ive collected over the years i was doing my leather repairs. Its just isnt the cold that can cause brass to break, its just bad luck and how the brass hits the floor. chances are you will get lucky and no problems but sometimes it will break. Brass is cast. Casting can have flaws in it depending on how its done. If you want to learn something about what you are using, readup on casting of brass. as far as not having matching hardware, i understand and is why i quit buying onesies and twosies of hardware. I understand that $$$ is always the issue, but what i ended up doing was to buy 50+ pieces of each piece of hardware i would use. Sometimes i would run down to my local leathershop and buy just what i needed for that job. A week or so later i would need more and again buy what i needed. So i decded to give in and buy more. as i said 50+ of some items ore many even more. If you have just started your business or work, you will eventually see a pattern in what is used and if you are lucky you can buy a box of it and it will be all you need. But once someone sees your work and if its any good, you will get someone that wants something different. Thats where you will end up buying some different hardware. It never stops. Its your choice and something you need to consider if you plan to go on. i use to do ALOT of tack repair. Mostly strap goods and there are mfg that use Brass and SS and some of the original stuff is cast zinc as you mention. Ive had owners bring in their tack and have me replace ALL of the hardware to the same color. If they got a new headstall with brass hardware, they would have me change any non brass to brass or the other way around. some people loved the brass color so that was all they wanted and had. some people wanted all SS since they new i had it and it didnt tarnish like brass. what you are finding out is why is made things from scratch. I didnt go so far as to make hardware, but its something you will find out if you keep doing what you are doing and more people want your work. something else you can look into if you want is to see if there is a way of "antiquing" brass hardware. That way all you need to do is to keep the hardware on the shelf and do the antiquing when its needed.

welcome, something you may want to consider doing before you go opening up your wallet. Look for any shops, tradeshows and such that will have ANY sewing machine that will suit your needs or requirements. Then Ask to try and play with the machines. Take some of the leather you think you will be sewing and see how the machine runs with with you plan to do and use. Bring along a note pad so you can jot down some notes if your memory isnt so good. Figure out before you buy if you want Reverse or ZigZag or any other feature. What size threads do you plan to use? Have you considered anything like that? Some machines have larger bobbins too. The way you dont have to reload so often. alot of things to consider before you spend your money. FWIW, i had done the cheap route and bought 200 ~600 buck machines thinking they would work and so forth. For somethings they did but for the most part they didnt and eventually i would always need something with more pressor foot height. that is another one you need to consider. In the end i just bought a real machine that would do the job and then some.

welcome head on over to your local leather crafter and see what scraps they have. Sometimes they will have scraps by the pound or KG in your neck of the woods. Or as mentioned, look at belies. Also, "practice on" can mean different things. If you mean carving or just learning how to make, fold, cut, crease and so forth? Look for any leatherworker or anyone that may do some leather craft. you do have saddlers and tack shops there, so go and ask if you can look and maybe buy some scrap. Let them know what you are attempting to do since i found that if someone is trying to learn a craft, they may try to help you out or know of someone that has what you want. If you have anything like "garage or estate sales" look for leathergoods . If you can look for some beatup broken saddles that you can cutup and practice, assuming you mean folding, cutting, creasing and so forth. You can also look at how the saddles are made and see how things are assembled and work together and that is also if you mean you want to learn how to do some tack/saddlery repair or builds. Try craigslist too. Note that what they maybe selling may not be so good quality, but if its convenient to you, it may not hurt to look

brass is fine and good, but it will sometimes break if cold and dropped. OR sometimes just dropped it will break. i had a whole bunch and gave most of them them to a shop in Canada. you can look at what Weaver has. Then start googling. It looks like a #299 snap. Weaver may have some Stainless steel snaps. I know you want "antique" but i like SS since its stronger. something you may want to consider is putting a location on your profile. What i can buy locally you may not depending on where you live. Also many times people dont want to pay to have things shipped from around the world.

BOOKS SOLD

YinTx, Sorry for the delay PM in your inbox. Sale pending Funds

SOME Books for sale – again. I have a couple gun leather books for sale. #1 Cowboy and Gunfighter Collectibles – A photographic Encyclopedia with Price Guide and Makers Index. By B. Mackin, Ed-1989 #2 Packing Iron - Gunleather of the Frontier West, By R.C. Rattenbury, Ed-1993 Books are in good/excellent shape. I bought them for reference when I was making some holsters. You can have these books for all of $46.00 USD including shipping. Prefer USPS Money Order. If you want the books, I will ship the book to you via USPS Media mail in a USPS Padded envelope. Not responsible how its received. No choice on how its shipped. THIS IS FIRST COME, FIRST SERVE. For sale to USA, Alaska and Hawaii only – sorry. If you want these books, reply here stating so, so others will know and then PM me with name and address. Thank you for looking

David, Sorry, i dont do PP. im not sure of age. Since i bought them from Weaver or Oregon Leather and have no idea on how long they had them. I used them for English Girth repairs and no one complained about having any of my work fail. I quit working on repair work for 5~7 years now. If you want i can cut a sample off each roll and send to you to evaluate. If you are interested PM me with address and i can get out ASAP. Ray

MODS PLEASE DELETE POST thank you.

Hey all, Im doing some downsizing and have some Girth Elastic FS. 1 roll of 1.5 inch wide blue in color 1 roll of 1 inch wide black in color 1 roll of 1 inch wide green/red stripe in color. Im not sure how much is left on the rolls, but I only did a handful of repairs using the elastic. As you can see there is a 12-inch ruler, so you can get an idea on how much is remaining. The roll of blue has a splice in it and I knowingly bought it that way. You can have all 3 rolls for $ 70.00 USD including shipping. Sale only to USA, Alaska and Hawaii I prefer USPS Money order. All of this is in a large USPS Priority Mail box. Please see attached photo First come, first serve. If you want it please reply on here stating so, so others will have an idea if its taken or spoken for or not. Then PM me with when to expect the funds and i will send the stuff to you. Thank you for looking.

Thanks you all for looking its sold. just need to send it out now.

Utilatu00 @Utilatu00 Still waiting for your contact info.

Utilatu00, thank you. please see your inbox. if you send me your info, i can send tomorrow.