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Everything posted by barra
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On ticket numbers: US TkT/Metric Ticket 33/100 60/46 69/40 92/30 138/20 207/13 277/10 346/8 415/7 554/5 693/4 Thanks Art Barra.
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This is an experiment in attaching files. The terminology may differ slightly from region to region. The blue rectangle I know as a box stitch (pattern) Adding the 2 diagonals makes it a gate stitch pattern (cos it looks like a gate) If you look at the pic of the shoulder straps on the back pack, you will see this pattern. By adding the little one stitch up you can stitch over to the other side for the other diagonal without back stitching over the original box pattern. ASTM (American society for testing materials) is our bible especially when working off technical drawings. Don't get fussed over all those weird stitch patterns. As Art said stock standard plain ol lock stitch is pattern 301. The ASTM link that Art put up also shows the different seams, plain seam, top/french, balloon seam etc gate stitch.doc gate stitch.doc
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Definately. Those additional options will only be beneficial if you are geared up for some serious mass production. So a stock standard 1245 will do just fine. On a side note. There are many other machines that will also suit you. I don't know where you are located but it would not hurt to have a chat to Cobra Steve. His class 18 might suit your needs. Ferdco also make a 1245 clone. Barra
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New English saddle seat - using a seam turner
barra replied to siggery's topic in Saddle Construction
http://www.abbeysaddlery.co.uk/product_detail.cfm?id=FD024 You will notice on the metal end of the tool that it has a smooth channel. Lightly moisten your seam and place the seam that has been formed when you have joined the seat, welt & skirt into this channel of the seam turner. by rubbing back and forward along the seam it makes the seam turn or lie flat and makes the welt pop (makes everything sit right) Alternatively you can lay the seat on your bench with the seam uppermost and gently tap it with a light hammer to make the seam turn. Make your taps progressively harder until you turn the seam. Don't attack it with excessive force from the on set. Barra -
Sect 3 of the manual. Specifications Possible models and sub classes. Model B - For processing medium materials Model C - For processing medium-heavy materials Additional equipment sub class -900/56 - thread trimmer sub class -910/04 - automatic presser - foot lifter sub class -911/35 - bartacker The model B and C has me stumped. I looked at the compliance plate on one of ours and there is no mention of model B or C
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Our Pfaffs all have clutch motors. Speed is attained by the foot control of the operator. I'll have a look at a manual when I get into work to see what you mean by different classes. If your referring to the 1246, this is the double needle variant. Barra
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$900 sounds dirt cheap, why I am asking myself. As for threads. it will easily take 207 top thread and 138 Bobbin thread. you would then use say about a size 160 needle. While not the best pic, this bag was all done on a Pfaff 1245 Barra
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I don't see a need for a box tacker. Your box or gate stich pattern can just as easily be formed manually on something like a 1245. I had a little animation on the sequence of forming a gate stitch that I will see if I can dig up. A bar tacker may be handy but I don't see as essential. Maybe a machine you can add at a later date unless money is not an issue. Barra
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I forgot to mention that I can have 2 straps in the clamp at one time and by having a rub rag in each hand I rub up 2 straps at once. I grab the straps up near the clamp, grip tight and walk backward, grab again and repeat until satisfied. This clamp also doubles as one of my plaiting clamps for when I am doing flat plaiting. Barra
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Hi Jim and Dan. from one Harness maker to two others, welcome aboard. Let the brain picking commence. Barra
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about restoring this saddle
barra replied to kabocky's topic in Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair
Kabocky. This saddle appears to be of Sub continemt origin and has a number of issues. Some are cosmetic and some I feel would cost more to put right than it is worth. 1. Girth straps stitching looks rotten and hanging on by devine intervention. 2. Needs reflocking. The near side particularly and the off side appears lumpy and bumpy. 3. Leather is tell tale Indian (see the dimple imprint on the flaps and the seat has that plasticy look). Now while you can get good quality leather that has had a pigskin like imprint, this one says Indian. Also where it has been scored/scuffed it looks cardboard-ish The plasticy welt is essentially cosmetic but the stitching is used to join the seat and the skirt. Welts are used so that the stitching is not visible. Barra -
Great job Lorrso. Can I suggest a couple of small things you can do to really set off your work. 1. On the head splits, extend your creasing all the way to the end of the split. Yes it can be tricky to get all the way up there with a normal creaser but you can finish off with a single creaser and the do something like cross the finished crease lines over each other to form a simple design. 2. Avoid using the compass down the length of the strap to centralise your hole punching. Just mark out the spacing with your compass. When you punch, make one very light tap, check it is all central and because it is a light mark you can make minor adjustments. 3. Traditionally for strapping over 5/8th " wide, start using an oval punch like a size 20. Continue to use your round punches for 1/2 and 3/8" strapping. Again great job. Just saw it is only the second one you have made so change great job to outstanding job. Barra
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Halter is North American terminology and Headcollar (sometimes headstall) is British. Barra
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Try Alum tanned leathers.
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As per official specifications, the A2 flying jackets made famous by American Aircrew in WW2 were "mostly" made of horsehide. http://www.lostworldsinc.com/A-2FlightJacket.htm Barra
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This is just to give you an idea how the binding attachment with the series of small posts works. They are used to weave the binding material in and out so that it feeds off the roll without twisting. http://www.sit.nsw.edu.au/trimming/DSC00094.htm
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http://www.leffler.com.au/saddlery/strapping.htm# That stuff???????? You can make your own by lining thin neoprene with soft garment leather. Barra
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From Verlane. https://www.siegelofca.com/view_verlane.asp?id=131 This link might help too. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s...raised+browband Barra
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Bruce has all 7 clips together on his website. http://www.prosaddles.com/videofromtheshop.html Barra
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This link should give you part 1 and then you can find the other 6 in the series of fitting a seat. Barra
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The gas stove also gets used for the coffee pot, creaser heater and oil warmer.
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Saddle to identify - mclellan looking
barra replied to pella's topic in Saddle Identification, Restoration & Repair
http://www.horsesoldier.com/catalog/M18856A.JPEG A modified Grimsley Artillery drivers saddle tree. I was actually just referring to the tree on Pella's saddle being Grimsley-esq. The skirts and rigging has me stumped. Barra