Jbarv Bulls

The stamping wont last long. You might try their bridle leather instead. Ive had good luck with patterns staying with it.

I generally fade it out to where the curve starts on the inside of the leg piece.

I use my Toro 3000 for chaps, belts, tack, knife sheaths, holsters, everything. Just have to change the needle and thread sizes. Have had no problems with it at all. I did buy a flatbed attachment for it to help out on the chaps tho. Works just fine.

Im by no means an expert, but Ive been using a machine for a couple years now. I dont think it would be overkill. For halters you will want a heavy post type machine. I kinda think its better to have a larger machine that I need, than a smaller one that I cant use. I sew everything on my toro 3000, bridles, halters. chaps, wallets. knife sheaths, breast collars, etc etc. The main concern would be if this machine can use the proper needle and thread size for your lighter materials. Can you find parts and someone to service it easily? As far as the stitch speed, the servos will slow them down to a crawl .

Thanks, Ive been telling everyone to get his dvd. First one Ive found that really shows the stuff I kept missing from the others on the market.

My first set of chinks... as always, I left a little room for improvement. Thanks to Mark B for putting out his instructional DVD. Sure saved me all kinds of trial and error.

I hadnt thought about that .... I had planned to start making some tools with my uncles assistance and his CAM machine ... having problems converting images to correctly in 3D for his machine to use, so it may just be a moot point ...

The best way thats worked for me .... I got one of those wide, tapered nail punches at home depot for like $7. I just tap and turn it into the post holes, it flares it out well enough for my el cheapo snap setter to finish the job.

I used 3-4 oz leather, the groove was there already, so I just filled the gap with contact cement. It was cut about as wide as 9-10oz leather. Looks like it had been routed, but I imagine a table or skill saw would do the same thing pretty easy.

Your best bet would be to make one yourself. Not much to them. Just a block of wood with 4 pieces of leather glued into 4 grooves. I ended up talking mine apart and putting thinner leather in one groove for smaller edgers.

Theyre long gone, I thought this got moved to the old/sold thread. Sorry.

Thanks Dwight, that sure enough gives me a direction to go.

I got them straight from Dixon. http://www.josephdixon.co.uk They call them edge shaves. You have to look through the saddlers tools pages to find them.

I must have got a bad batch from weaver. Mine just kinda chewed leather when I got them.

A guy was looking at my saddle and wanted some lettering done like it. Anyone have any idea if there is a template for these? Or even which font it is?

I sold my Weaver master edgers, had to sharpen them every few times I used them. I recently ordered some Dixon edgers that I really like. Stropped them a little when I first got them, cut like butter ever since.

Kevin, Jnae and Emma are top notch. Ive used them a couple of years now. I live close enough to make a trip to the store every few weeks, but mostly just order online. They seem to know exactly what I need before I do so I dont have to make the trip. By far the easiest place to order from and the nicest, helpful folks Ive ever seen. I feel guilty if I have to call Weaver if they make a mistake on my order, but SLC is no problem if they happen to make one, even if its my mistake. Good people.

It sort of looks like you arent centering your punch on your marks. Have you tried placing your punch with hand pressure, then pulling it away to see if your mark is centered before you go ahead and punch it? Thats the only way I can get oval holes to look right .

Finally got around to making one of these for myself. 6oz vegtan with a 4-5 oz liner.

I have a bar of the brown wax... I havn't had any success with it so far. Ive tried rubbing it on the edges with little results. Its alot harder than beeswax. The only way Ive been able to get it to work is heat it a bit, then rub it on my edges, but I lose most of it when I burnish. Im pretty sure theres a right way to use it, but I havnt figured it out yet.

I listed my 2 year old Sailrite LS 1 with 4 spools of thread, some extra needles, a swing out guide, the tools and case that came with it. you can find them on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1555.l2649 Thanks.

I just drill out the centers, seems to be the easiest way Ive came across.

I was kind of thinking it would be a little better, Ive bashed my hand with a maul more than a few times.

I was wondering if anyone knows why the standard length of stamping tools seems to be 4 1/4 to 4 1/2 inches? What would be the downside of tools with say 5 to 6 inch stems?