Jwalker

i rarely watch tv...being in school to become a web/app developer, i do lots of reading...i have a growing library of close to 30,000 songs....from big band classics to some heavy metal with a sweet baseline...if I'm working on on project, unless there's a Spurs game on, its music

by n large i agree with the new member above...except that, to say that leather work is not fine art, i believe is quite insulting to many of my friends, amongst whom include several Stohlman award winners...perhaps the new member is unaware of the Facebook groups that offer imagery of the work of any level of skill/talent from around the world

i agree...determine the shipping path...n keep calling and asking for managers or directors until you get answers and satisfaction...i think all of the handling facilities all have a "lost" department that they can check...its possible it didn't get scanned for some reason, hopefully its not been utterly lost in the system because of computer system data mishandling...you'll have to wait out the window of the shipping agreement in the meantime...they WILL look for it rather than shell out the claim $$...if they dO opt to pay the claim...perhaps suck a trusted and well a known and customer service oriented business would make arrangements with you to resolve the situation...looking at their GLOBAL reputation, i suspect they'd rather be willing to accommodate you vs losing world wide customers....odds are some employee didn't have time or really give a darn...put it on a stack of 'i don't know what to do with this box" boxes and has jus been delayed due to carelessness....ya GOTTA keep faith in the hope that one way or another yur gonna get this made right...ive lived mosta my 43 yrs in Tx...and a true Texan stands behind their product AND their customers...cuz thats jus the way a REAL Texan does things...especially as a business, even if we have to take a hit because its the right thing to do to take care of the customer, we take care of the customer...because of our pride and because they know the rules of doing business...whats fair is fair and whats right is right...Texans are very proud...it may cost you the insurance payout, and delay yur order, but giving em the payout would be free fer you anyway...so why not jus give it to em so they can recoup some of their loss on the original shipment...the sucky part of all this is, it could easily take what will feel like eternity to resolve...ive never done business with this company...im jus sayin that odds are, yur situation will be made right

latigo?? as far as i know...that stuff is good for anything that you don't care about rough use...rain ect....this leather will discolor just about anything it comes in contact with....sure, its tuff stuff...but if ya wanna carve n tool....jus plain old veg tan tooling leather...sorry you learned an expensive lesson...i think we've all done it....are you aware of all the groups on Facebook?? they're a non-stop info exchange

perhaps theres a tandy leather factory store near you...they do classes

there are several groups on Facebook that provide an endless stream of info...i duuno if you have to have an account

yur gonna need different machines for different jobs...in my opinion...the Cobra Class 4 is without a doubt a VERY versatile machine..sews lightweigh stuff just as nicely as tooling leather......i got mine about a yr ago....very easy to get started...outanding support from the builder (not just Steve...the ENTIRE team are rawkstars, and i didnt even buy the machine from them, i got it used)...as for some of the other stuff you mentioned you'd like to make...sounds like yur gonna need a post machine and a patch machine as well as im sure yur learning, this is not a cheap passion to get into...lol

many also use a thonging chisel...just enough to make most of the hole..and its not easy to see any tool marks or the slit shape of the hole...ive used an awl...the punch method is faster for me and makes it easy to go pritty fast with 2 needles...i love my cobra class 4 btw....got it almost a yr ago...havent done much leather past several months due to life (ie, maintaining honor student status in school for computer programming) so im still learning it, but it does a fine job on thin stuff and is super easy to get started with...yup..not cheap...in any way...but even buying used, the support from the builder is outstanding

mannnnnnny returns

i almost forgot...the chicago school of shoemaking

this post made me chuckle... there are plenty of boot makers...as for shoes...also plenty...not many in the US though...i know a boot maker in Ok who has a daughter...the boot maker is Lisa Sorrell...her daughter Paige makes some shoes...there are also shoe maker forums on facebook

have you tried contacting Peter Main?? he lives in houston now but he i an endless source of help

agree with ferg....very light coat of oil on grain side....and i only oil to bring out the reds in leather for sherdan finish....otherwise, oil really is not needed- depends on how well you control the moisture content while tooling- as moisture evaporates it leaches out some of the fat liquors n oils used in tanning

for what its worth... 20yrs ago i learned to rue a nick out of an airplane prop...6 yrs ago a wallet cracked cuz i didnt pre fold it before super shene dried...i gently rued the crack...BUT...this project was dyed deep black....it was raffled off to a crowd of 250 people.....nobody said one lil word about being able to see anything unattractive

i soooooooooooo recommend the cobra class 4...i would call Steve @leather machine co to be sure abouth the thread

jus my experience...but yeh, thin yur colors with a lil water (Jim Linnell taught me yrs ago)...makes it easier to build to the color ya want, plus its not on there so thick....i would go for the nail polish remover...its great for removing jus about any finish as well (i havent tried it on natural shoe polish)...i would suggest having a large number of rags on hand for the job at hand in effort to keep from dealing with so much color being moved around....rub the leather with the wet rag, not pour the liquid onto the leather... this will leach out the fat liquors n oils from the leather...you might consider a light coat of neatsfoot (let sit 24hrs) before re-coloring btw...i spend plenty at Tandy, great team....but the acrylics at walmart work jus fine

it really depends on yur level of investment...the above sources are great...i spend plenty with both...i do believe Hackbarth offers a sherridan starter set...it wont be cheap, but it'll be worth it...i suggest the Stohlman book on belts...tandy always has it...and lots of other great stuff for beginners..prepare yurself...this is not a cheap hobby and its very addictive

rite on...enjoy n makes lotsa $ with it

ummmm...i think these are the folks yur talkin about...but they're in canada...lol..i recently bought a used class 4...love the machine....love the support from the manufacturing team http://leathermachineco.com/

theres an awesome maker in Co...Chris Slickbald Andre...look him up...lemme know if ya canot find him

havent had my Cobra 4 very long and school is keeping me super busy...but ive made a few things with it..i dont make saddles.....sews the light weight just as well as the heavy...easy to get started...easy to use...and is backed by a fantastic team

i dye all of my own

you've already gotten good advice...i agree...dilute to taste...then airbrush...a light buff to get any loose dye stuffs....leather should be dry before dying...and as the dye dries it will leach out some of the fat liquors...so ya might consider a light oiling before dying...let yur oil set for 24hrs

https://www.facebook.com/groups/leathertools/