Jwalker

I've been wayyyyy busy for a long time to take a breath n reply to some stuff here n there...if you go to Facebook n search for 'leather artisans digital guild' n ask the group, or 'masters of leather' yur post might get Peter's attention n of course thats his home turf...

good stuff

a dear friend, and uber master crafter..told me long ago that spirit dyes can be rejuvenated with isopropyl alcohol

with all due respect, thronging chisels are meant only to penetrate the back side...they are only meant as a guide...meaning- just hittem hard enough to puncture the back side

sounds thin to me...the slab i bought is 2"....the slab i was given by a custom granite guy is lil thicker...you could probly use this piece as long as its used on a SOLID surface...should make a nice 'thud' when used...heh..Peter M. tools on a piece of steel...students tool on the rock he started with- isn't even 1 sq ft..lol lotta headstone makers have great scraps free or cheap

the mention of practice was in regard to practicing adding moisture vs. casing...i think the only way of truly testing for a finish to have already been applied would be to see if a drop of dye acts as it should...just 1 drop should tell ya....if it beads up at all & tries to roll around, its got somethin on it...hope I've been of some help

with all due respect...you are aware of the difference between casing and adding moisture to leather, yes? kinda sounds to me though as if a finish of some grade has already been applied to this leather....acetone type fingernail polish remover MIGHT knock it off and render it toolable again, but don't hold yur breath...a bag of scrap from TLF is cheap enough to try some adding moisture vs casing...and some stamping practice as well as swivel knife practice....if ya wanna keep that blade sharp (of COURSE you do!)...get at least a small piece of white jewelers rouge...rub it well, i mean REALLY well onto a side of some heavy card paper (like a beer box)...hold the swivel knife blade equal to the angle of the blade...with some pressure, rub yur blade the length of the card...but only go the 1 way with it...try to do both sides an equal number of times...when should you strop the blade? every time you pick up the knife or feel the blade start do drag through the leather.....why use heavy card to make a strop? because leather will compress, and end up rounding the blade edge...the card is less likely to do that.

same way Peter Main taught me to trace my pattern...but if it gets the paper wet, the leather isn't ready yet

Tandy does some classes...and there are several groups on Facebook that are a hUge help

if yur not a Facebook hater...try the international internet leather guild...there are several fb groups all about leather

class 4 is the best bang fer the buck...if yur ready to pull the trigger...ya might try to find 1 used in yur area...otherwise...pucker up...the shipping is disgusting....course, it takes helluva stout fella to move all of its weight alone...which is made easier via the shipping method...verrrrrry sharp team behind the equipment, and they don't mind calls fer help

never realized how lucky i'd be to have the mallet that i do...rawhide...green stripe on the handle...16 oz i think...was told by dear friend Peter Main to cut 3" off the handle, and then choke up on it...i dunno how some folks can use a maul...i really like my mallet..lol i dunno what yur using under the stamp, butcha shouldn't have to hit stuff all that hard...i got a nice piece of scrap of granite from a granite guy...then i have my marble from Tandy with the pound-o-board on 1 side..been using that piece for bout 18 yrs now

what a nice thing to say!! thx man! we enjoy folks jus like you...and it sounds like the bug REALLY bit ya...lol...it is indeed a love & passion...NOT cheap to get into...most of us feel its only fair to share whats been shared with US...its people inquiring, ordering, and telling me my stuff looks real nice, keep driving me to do better work & get nicer results....it definitely requires practice...to start off with, i'd getta Barry King swivel knife with a straight blade...the bearings he uses make a huge diff...especially when the leather is properly prepared....there's also several leather groups on Facebook...from tools to patterns and help & advice...and its a global network...lots of artists there that don't come to this group due to time ect....

depending on the project and its intended use...lotsa times i use neutral shoe polish to finish...doesnt darken natural leather much right away...takes some use/ time...buffing it real well when you apply it, it produces a nice gloss and will darken to look even better over time...however...if you've got a lotta carving/ tooling, be prepared to get extra shoe polish outta the deeper cuts and impressions ( took me a while to find soft bristle brushes to do it with)

Tandy's leather weld would fit yur needs to, so you could just GLUE a liner to it

LOL!! welcome to the addiction of many...there is a Facebook group for buying & swapping tools

there is a Facebook group...called holsters for handguns...several award winning makers there that don't mind sharing knowledge

i really dunno what else might help...but try doing a search for the power mallet...if you have a hard time finding it, message me and i'll try to help

these are pricey...but, wOw http://comstockheritage.com/collections/trophy-buckles

i'm SOOOOOOOOOO glad i finally got me a Cobra class 4....its extremely versatile and user friendly....i still run mine at the slowest possible speed, cuz i aint no pro user by a long shot..however, the dvd that comes with the machine, and the customer service support from the entire manufacturer team has been nothing less than splendid

theres at least 1 bookbinding group on Facebook

all i feel qualified to say in response is....save yur pennies & getta cobra class 4....i don't work for them, not blood related to em....but mannnnn...i wanted a machine for yrs, so i kinda kept up with postings about em....did some further digging...EVERYtime I've called Steve's team, they've been nothing but polite and very helpful....there isn't much learning curve to getting started running beautiful stitches on it...and its extremely versatile- with barely any adjustment at all, i can go from lightweight to heavier stuff....hard to find 1 used...hold their value strong....THE must have general machine in my opinion...buy 1 atta show & save the freight, plus get even better pricing- Steve don't WANNA haul around all those machines!

no problems with my cobra class 4

i make it...i mark it...no exceptions

English? as in, across the pond from U.S.? that i know of, there is no particular book focusing on the making of wallets...i also don't wanna insult you by not knowing your leatherwork experience/ skill level....ive made mAny mAny mens/ womens wallets of different dimensions...are you intending to make your own interiors?? i don't make my own for a cpl reasons 1- i don't have the time to perfect the design (I'm into my second year of mobile app development for apple devices, and I'm FINALLY getting to build some ephor apps) 2- its easier for me to order a beautiful Australian made product, plus it would probly be a hassle to set up my machine for it....do you have a proper sewing machine??..if you are not aware of the many other forums/ groups available to leather-folk....i'd be glad to point you in some VERY resourceful directions...the best way to make sure i read an email from you, is to use the form on the contact page go my website- i ALWAYS read those...JwalkerLeather.com