Shooter McGavin

I was trying to get across that not all of the 20/21 SF's have the picatinny rail. Some do, maybe even most, but not all. Some 20/21 SF's have the standard Glock rail

To make it more confusing, the 21SF comes in 2 versions, the Glock rail and the picatinny rail. The 20/21SF with the Glock rail should cause no fitment issues when using a standard 20/21 molding gun. The SF models with the picatinny rails are a whole other story.

I use non-powdered nitrile gloves and have never had a problem other than last week when I was dip dying a bunch of green pieces and got a pinhole in the thumb of the glove. The dye is still wearing off lol.

With the pro oil dyes I use a dauber that is very saturated and apply the dye liberally. Usually more than once. The browns and mahoganies may appear blotchy at first but will even out very nicely after allowing it to settle for a couple of days. I think the problem with the airbrush is that it does not allow enough dye on the surface to really "penetrate" the leather. IIRC, particle had a similar thread not that long ago. He uses an airbrush also. As far as the Mop n Glo, I dont know, katsass has used it for years with great success. I dont know how chemically different it is from any of the other water based acrylic sealants. Having said that, I still use products targeted to the leatherworker.

Draw a new pattern. The XD is bigger than the glock from bottom of trigger guard to top of slide.

Double bag them for a couple of days and then see if a friend has a G29 or G30 you can borrow. I think the rings guns for the Glocks are undersized. I made a thumb break holster for a G26 and while perfect on the dummy gun, I was 3/4 of a snap away from closing up on the real deal. Luckily my customer was local and patient with me. Nice holster BTW. Im going to try my first VM2 inspired IWB here shortly. Any pointers you care to share would be appreciated.

You got that right.

me three.

rkleather: It will break in over time. Something else you can do is to curve the belt slot wings when wetforming the holster. as an example:

On the flip side of things ( thats actually kind of a pun, stay with me...), I ordered a few sides from W&C last week, drum dyed sides of saddle skirting. Opened them today and the flesh sides are all natural after they were split down to 7-8oz. Sort of defeats the purpose of buying drum dyed leather for me. It throws a real wrench in the workflow I have established. Maybe I'll give Glenn a call and see if they can be split and then dyed, but I'm doubting that possibility.

Been there before, now I only order W&C leather. Not woth the risk of getting an uncuttable piece of HO anymore, which is a shame, because it is otherwise nice leather.

I bought a CW9 dummy gun from Duncans Customs

I like the heavier thread myself as well, been thinking of stepping up one size from the 277 I typically use. As far as winding the bobbins, I hardly get them anywhere resembling even and havent noticed any problems as a result.

Most people cant get their guns or mags in my holsters at first, or out of them for that matter. A tight stitch line is important, quality leather is important, plus I think they shrink up a bit as they dry. Sometimes I'll bag stuff overnight before I send out out so at least the customer has a sneaking suspicion that I sent them the right holster Eaglestroker is pinching the end of the barrel between his fingers in that pic, dont let him fool you

Very nice work on the sheaths. The blade is a mighty fine piece of art. Got any info on the maker?

This was discussed not that long ago. The general consensus was that yes, you would be ok in doing so. Good luck with the house hunting, want to buy mine?

Looks like belly leather from what I can see of the inside of the back panel. If thats the case, it will never support itself with a belt squeezing in on it. Having said that, I'm not one to fall in to the "tactical reholstering" school of thought so I wouldnt be bothered by it at all.

Just an FYI: I sold a big batch of green holsters recently. I bought the Fiebings Green dye. If you put it on too heavy it turns purple. Not sure why but it kinda sucks. I bought green dye not purple. GRRRRRRR Not just on the leather but on my gloves also.

Not bad at all. Took me 4 tries to get my first one in that style that I liked. One thing to keep in mind is that the leather stretches less at the tapered part of the mag so I always bring my stitch line in when I hit that spot. For me it was build, adjust pattern, build, adjust pattern.. you get the idea The G30 mag is wider that the 19 mag so the stitch line will be more noticeable on that one.

Not sure what their weekend schedule is. Im game to take a day off work if needed. But only if we stop at Mrs. Yoders on the way back You need a tax ID to set up an account with them. Shoot me a text and let me know whats up.

May I ask where you purchased them? I use the Tandy Keen Edge beveler in size 4 and have to buy a new one every month or so. I've been looking for a better one myself. Thanks!

Got a picture handy? I'm guessing the stitch line does not follow to guns profile all that well which will certainly let the leather stretch out over time. To tighten it up your best bet would be to add another stitch line along the profile. Assuming that is actually the issue and it's not just that the leather itself was soft and stretched out after a bit.

Didnt see it on his website. Shot an email out Saturday, no response yet. I need a piece maybe 5" x 8" if anyone reading this has a piece. Not looking for a handout, willing to pay for it. Thanks!

Spring steel would be best IMO. Difficult to work with maybe, but it would certainly keep the mouth open. Most aluminum alloys have a hard time bending without breaking.