Shooter McGavin

You pretty much need to call them. http://www.wickett-craig.com/

Really really nice!

Very nice. What weight leather would you use for something like this? 3-4oz tooling leather?

Looking for an XDm 3.8 dummy gun to purchase. Thanks!

I can make them for you for a minimal charge. Shoot me a PM or something to get the ball rolling. Thanks! Dan

For you guys buying drum dyed leather from them like I do, I recently found out they they will redye the backside after splitting for a small additional fee. Been waiting a few weeks for my order to ship

Jake, I switched up a few months back to using the gallon jugs of sealant from Weaver Leather, I thinks its called Leather Kote, mixed 1:1 with distilled water.

All in a days work Ray I did enjoy reading your reply!

Was asked to do a holster set for a Ruger LCP. Sort of a tough gun to make a pancake holster for that is both functional and looks nice. Sketched this up and started cutting and sewing. The end result is good I think. Ya so now the wife wants a set as well. Anyway, just wanted to share. Thanks!

I paid, I think, right around 200 bucks for one of the Tandy splitters. It works great for belts, but thats about it. If you plan to start doing belts, well worth the investment. 1/4" seems to be a time proven standard. I've done them thicker or thinner on request. As for the wrinkling, I havent had much of an issue with that. While the belts are still wet from sanding the edges, I roll them into a loop with about a 12" diameter. Dont know if it does anything but I havent had problems with wrinkles. Properly oiling the leather might help as well. Post pics!

Very nice, as usual!

Hidden snaps on that last one? Pretty cool!

I honestly do not understand why Rings make mags with no cartridges in them, and guns with the safeties in the "off" position.

Looks pretty good. I think you might find it necessary to move the stitch line a bit closer under the trigger guard. The gun will seat deeper than you want it to doing it as you have shown. You could probably make your belt slots a little shorter as well. Assuming a 3/8" wide slot, you will with up with a 1.875" tall slot there. Kinda long for a 1.5" belt. Ride height and cant look good, and the overall profile of the holster looks appealing. Make sure to post some finished pics!

My reasons for passing are mainly, and in no particular order, 1: the SOB, which I currently do not offer as a standard item 2: the grip down draw, which forces people to muzzle themselves during the draw and presentation 3: thumb break on an IWB 4: spring steel clips

I've taken to using the oxblood and black in almost the same ratio as stated above, then finalizing with a coat or two of the eco-flo professional waterstain in bordeaux. I like the results.

Got a request today from a fell who is looking for a holster for his 1911. I'm going to pass on it but before I let him know I figured I'd see if anyone here wanted to have a go at it. If so I will pass your info along to him. Firearm: Taurus PT1911AR in .38 Super, with Laserlyte V-3 Laser mounted on rail. Holster specifics: Mahogany leather, RH, 20 degree cant, small of back, inside-the-waistband, tuckable, spring steel belt clip(s), thumb break, grip down. Let me know if you are interested.

These are still available. paypal works best dan at zlogonje dot com is my paypal addy.

Looks similar to one I just completed. I think these M&P Shields will be big sellers hopefully it trickles down to us small builders.

Thanks for the compliments everyone! Cheryl, I dont really do a traditional "inlay" as such, but I have done a few in this style, not sure what it's called though. Most exotics do better as inlays IMO but some work very well as overlays. Elephant and ostrich both ten to burnish nicely. Ostrich leg does OK. Stingray, gator, and snake not so much. These are just my observations. FWIW, the bag of exotics I bought from SLC consisted of a couple of snake skin pieces, a mixture of elephant scraps, a shred or two of ostrich, and a heck of a lot of lizard butts. If you can tell me whats in yours when you get it I would be appreciative.

Hey that came out awesome!

Sorry to bump an old thread but I wanted to let people know that W&C will redye the leather after it is split for a very small cost. I will certainly have this done on my next order.

IMO, yes it is. Easily fixed by making your concave curve a little more convex.

Some do it the former, I myself do the latter. It's really up to the individual. However, if you have a know good pattern theres no advantage to sewing after wet forming. Also, if youre using a machine, it's going to be hard to get close to the gun profile.

Dont forget some kind of bumper pad between the snap stud to prevent metal to metal contact with the gun!