Shooter McGavin

Good call on the cylinder. My Rings dummy gun for the 38 special j-frame has a cylinder that measures 1.517" long. My Model 60 in .357 measures 1.596" The barrel on the dummy gun extends 1.237" past the frame, the barrel on my Model 60 extends1.552" past the frame. I've never compared them to each other before. I'm glad you brought this up.

Disregarding the hammer style, a J-Frame is a J-Frame is a J-Frame. Pulled this from Wikipedia Smith & Wesson Model 34—A Small six-shot snub-nosed revolver chambered in .22 LR. Produced from 1953 to 1991. Smith & Wesson Model 36—known as the "Chiefs Special"; first J-frame (1950), 5-shot revolver[17] Smith & Wesson Model 37—known as the "Chiefs Special Airweight"; Smith & Wesson Model 60—first regular production all stainless steel revolver (1965); the stainless Chief's Special[17] Smith & Wesson Model 340PD—first revolver made of scandium alloy, very light, possibly the final evolution of the classic J-frame Chief's Special introduced over 60 years earlier, weighs 12 ounces (340 g).[17] Smith & Wesson Lemon Squeezer—The "lemon squeezer," also known as Model 40, Model 42 and 38 Safety Smith & Wesson Centennial—standard and "Airweight" (Models 40, 42, 442, 640, 642) (at one time available in 9×19mm caliber as the Model 940)[17] Smith & Wesson Chief's Special—standard and "Airweight" (Models 36, 37, 60, 637) Smith & Wesson Bodyguard—standard and "Airweight" (Models 38, 380, 49, 438, 638, 649) Smith & Wesson Ladysmith[17]

If you go with thick leather you can skive down the buckle fold over portion.

Love the mod to the dummy gun!

If it's available I'll buy it. Even if its an oddball like the Ruger P95 I recently did. Ya, maybe you only break even on the first holster, but then you have the dummy gun forever. Also consider the inquiries and orders that YOU DONT KNOW you arent getting because you dont have the gun models listed on your website. I pretty much have every gun that Rings makes listed in my "gun list" so if someone browses by they see their gun listed. If they place an order and I dont actually own the dummy gun, I go ahead and order it. They typically arrive before I'm ready to start their build so all is well.

Hello, They are 0.40" from prong to prong and 0.205" wide at the widest portion. The prongs are 0.265" long.

Certain things you may carry on your belt wreak havoc on the belt, especially the edges. Metal clipped holsters are one of them, as are belt buckles that are too snug or have squared edges. My guess would be that if you contacted the maker, they would be more than happy to dress the edges for you again.

Care to share the dye and finish process? I really like the look it has.

I usually like the stuff that you build. This one though.... is no different. Nice work!

I ordered a couple of sides of their " tooling/holster/carving" leather a couple of months ago. They sent me skirting. When I called they could not tell me what the differences were. WUT??? The skirting has worked out pretty well for me, but still, it's not what I ordered, and was never asked if the skirting would be OK for me.

Cool stuff Dwight!

Very nice!

I've had really good luck with the drum dyed W&C leather.

Denster, Tha nks for reconfirming my waste of 200 dollars. Grrrrrrrr

Rob, those came out great! Nice work for sure. I especially like the shark one.

I'm having the same issue right now. I took my clicker dye and had them click me out a bunch of pieces for a new holster line I'm working on. I failed to notice that the leather was "finished", and what that meant. It doesnt absorb water really. It doesnt seem to wet mold well. And it doesnt harden. I basically wasted 200 bucks. It is the 11-1220DS

I read your question wrong. I'd only been up about 5 minutes at the time lol. Sorry for the misinformation. There may be a slight difference in the taper angle from the trigger guard to the muzzle between the two, but not enough to matter to a holster.

It wont be the same.

One last shot at seeing if anyone has one for sale or knows where to grab one before I borrow Ricks. Thanks

So one of my friends brought his fried by the shop the other day to get a holster made. His buddy carries the S&W Bodyguard revolver. So heres the issues, and why I dont want to make it myself: 1: He wants it IWB with a single spring steel clip. 2: He wants his name on it 3: He wants it to have a thumb break, but wants no extra material above the snap itself. 4: He wants the butt of the gun to be just above the top of his pants. 5: He always wears jogging pants. ( no belt obviously ) I told him that I didnt think I could accommodate his requests, but would try to draw something up in the next few weeks. I told him that I didnt think he would like it if I built it per his requests. My friend told me to "build him what he wants and then when he dont like it he can pay me to build another one the right way". So what does the LW.Net mindhive say? Anyone wanna give this one a go?

When I make that style, I cut the straps onto the front piece of the pattern, extending down the same as the gun profile. This one however, I tried with the the straps facing upwards. I felt it wasted more leather so I started doing them straps down after this.

I've seens holsters that were pressed and thats all. Not a good look in my opinion. If I had a press I would utilize it to pick up the rough details and then crisp up the edges by hand, I'm not sure how companies like Galco get their lines, I'm thinking they vacuum form them.

Did I mention a 3" railed 1911?

I am selling some solid brass belt loop staples. These are most commonly used to secure the ends of your belt keepers instead of sewing or using ordinary paper staples. Selling 20 pieces for 3 dollars, plus 1 dollar shipping no matter the quantity. Thanks!

Anyone know where I can obtain a dummy gun for a railed 3" 1911? More specifically, an STI Off Duty. If someone has one thay can loan or rent, that would be fine also. Thanks!