radar67

Quickbooks Premier is an excellent software package for tracking all business transactions.

I use the Super Skiver from Tandy.

I will give that a try. Thanks for the tip.

I have been using Lunar Pages for over 3 years. Customer service is grade A and I have never experienced my site being down. The price is nice too.

I use the normal rivet setting tool on the ones I have done. I usually place a piece of leather under the concho for a little protection.

I only saddle soap the inside of the cuff. I seal everything I make 100%. The only prep I do to the flesh side is to dye twice, buffing between each coat. This "raises" the fuzz and a good buffing will knock down most of it. The saddle soap is much like dressing the edges, it locks the fibers down and smooths everything out. The flesh side will soak the resolene up pretty fast on the first coat (I use a bristled, throw away paint brush) Let the first coat dry an hour or so and add the second. Let it dry 24 hours and buff it well. You will be surprised by the results. The only other thing I will do to the flesh side is a light shave if it is really fuzzy and wild (before the above listed steps). I use a skiving tool for this.

If the dye is not properly sealed, it could rub off. Make sure you buff it until you see no color transfer to the buffing cloth before you seal. Part of the process I use when making cuffs is to buff out really well, saddle soap, let dry, and seal with 2 or 3 coats of resolene mixed 50/50 with water.

My information does not include the 3D stamps you requested. Sorry.

I'll take a look this weekend and scan them if they are there.

I recently used the simmering water technique. Once the water started to form small bubbles (not boiling) I submerged the leather for about thirty seconds, removed, formed and let dry. It is hard as a rock. I could literally knock someone out with it.

I have a sale flyer from 74-76 time frame that may have them in it.

Hello Bill, If you can shoot outdoors in a shade, you will get good results. Inside, a good light tent is best. A simple way to create one is to build a square PVC frame and drape a white sheet over it, leaving just the front open. Place a lamp, or clamp type light shining at an angle from the left and right side. (these two lights should cover the top and both sides in light, but not pointing inside the tent from the front). If done properly, your flash will not fire at all and the sheet diffuses the light inside the tent to keep the shadows to a minimum.

Mix it 50/50 with water. Apply a light coat, let dry, buff, and apply a second coat if you think it needs it.

The angle you hold the tool is important. Tandy has a video on their site that shows how to use this tool. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/home/infoandservices/Leathercraft-Videos/Pro-Stitching-Groover-88081-00/Pro-Stitching-Groove-88081-00.aspx . I use a strop to keep the edge in shape, it will last a long time doing this. To resharpen the blade, you would have to use a jewelers file. Personally, I order a new blade when it gets that bad.

What shapes do you want to cut? Tandy has some punches that are shaped. Moon, star, diamond, oval, etc.

I use Acrylic Resolene mixed 50/50 with water. Be very careful around the edges of your design, if it contacts it, it seals it. Let it dry for 24 hours.

Acrylic resolene mixed 50/50 with water makes a good resist too.

Once you get it sharp, keep a stropping pad close by and use it often.

I have been looking for a good magnolia pattern. I see Tandy has a nice one on a purse kit, but I am not about to buy the kit just for the pattern. Any ideas where I might find a good pattern, or does anyone have they would be willing to share?

I have the pro rotary punch from Tandy and it is very useful. It saves a lot of time on straps and such too. Don't waste your money on the cheaper rotary punches though. As someone who just started working with leather a year or so ago, all my tools are from Tandy and they have served me well. If I were doing this as a profession, I might see spending the extra money on professional stamps, but I do this as an advanced hobby and the tools get plenty of use. I have not have any issues with any of the stamps and only one of the tools. (the inexpensive slot punch has to have a massive amount of work to cut properly.) Another suggestion, since you are just getting started, if you plan to spend more than $500 on tools in the next year, get the wholesale card for $150. You will pay for it in savings with the first purchase. My first purchase was a little over $800 with the price of the card figured in. I saved over $400 that day. In the last year, my savings have been close to $1000, so it is worth it if you plan to spend money there.

The only way I know to get your wife to do the job is to offer her an amount of cash she can't possibly refuse. Pet Smart or a store like it will have a spray you can use to remove the scent of the urine. A little saddle soap for the "stain" from the urine is where I would start.

Masonite is still for sale at most building supply stores. 1/8 Masonite compared to 1/8 ply for weight, the ply is lighter by far. On your case, water hardened 10/12 ounce leather should be plenty stiff enough to protect the guitar in my opinion.

How about and old fashioned cannon barrel? Or crossed cannon barrels.

You can take the file down to Office Depot of similar and have it printed to the origional size fairly reasonably. The Tandy instructions say you can have them printed for your personal use.

I cut resolene 50/50 with water and apply after a good cleaning with oxcylic acid. Apply the sealer after everything has dried. I let the first coat of sealer dry, add a coat of mink oil, then add another coat of sealer.