Josh Ashman

Looks nice mortar man, where'd you get the EGA stamp? Best regards, Josh 0311, B1/3

Thanks for your description on how to set the string Ron. I'll have to try pulling from the center of the cantle as opposed from the center of the horn and see how they come out. Best regards, Josh

Thanks Ron, I see what you mean on the rigging coming up to cover the front of the bars. That's an excellent idea, I'll have to give it a try on #4. I appreciate you taking the time to give me the info and the picture! Tom, I do have the book that came with the Dusty video but I haven't looked at it or the video for quite some time. As best as I can recall it was a piece of plexiglass with a wood frame on two sides, think speed square with a window. The idea for using it was to set one side of the rigging then place the jig frame edges on the tip and bottom edge of the bar then mark whatever reference lines you wanted with a greese pencil on the plexiglass. Then you go to the other side, flip the jig around, place it on the bar the same way and use the reference marks to ensure the rigging is equal. Here's how I set my rigging plates, I'm not sying it's the right or best way, it's just the way I figured out to do it. It's also probably a good idea to keep in mind this is based on me being in the middle of my 3rd saddle, I've done similar measurements on 2 other saddles that I repaired/replaced the riggins on. 1st - I tack the rigging on both sides, this is the part where I use my "good eye". 2nd - I move my work stand up against my bench with the saddle facing and square with the bench. 3rd - I measure from a reference point (leading edge, center back edge, pick your fav) on both sides of the rigging to the front of my bench (I hold a 4' level along the front edge of my bench top and a shelf that runs under it, you could also use a wall or any other flat surface). 4th - measure from a reference point to the floor on both sides. 5th - I tack a nail dead center on top of the horn (I've also placed the nail on the back side of the fork just above the hand hole, just make sure it's centered) loop a string over the nail ans pull down each side to a reference point. Once I've made these measurements I'll adjust one side or the other until they are all close enough that I'm OK with them. Anyway, maybe that'll be helpful or maybe somebody else will chime in with a better way. I can tell you I've been riding the 2nd saddle I made for about a year and half and haven't noticed any issues with the rigging being out of balance. Best regards, Josh

Thanks Tom, That is a flate plate rigging and the hardware is from Weaver, it's the Jerimiah Watt brand. I think you can also get it direct from him at his website www.ranch2arena.com . I pretty much follow the Stohlman books but I haven't built his rigging gauge. I use a combination of strings, tapes and levels along with my "good eye". The Dusty Johnson DVD shows a fairly simple jig that looks like it would be easy to make and use although I haven't made me one yet. Best regards, Josh

Thanks guys!

Jinxed, I don't have the Watt or Cheany DVD's so I can't really say anything on them. I don't have the Harry Adams book but I have looked through it several times waiting for my wife to go through the SLC bead section (anyone who's been there knows...) and I do have the Stohlman books and have used them to build 2 saddles and I'm a little into my 3rd so I feel somewhat qualified to speak on them. In my opinion you'd be alot better off with the Stohlman books since they go into far more depth and cover more ground. This certainly isn't meant to say the Adams book wouldn't be good to have, I hope to pick one up when I have an extra $100. The Stohlman books do include how to make patterns although you'll have to be a little creative to get everything to apply to the half-breed you're looking to build. I'm sure others will chime in and give you completely differant advice, some of it will probably be much better than mine. Good luck and have fun, Josh

Thanks Bob! I appreciate the kind words.

Thanks!

They really look nice Tony, great job. Best regards, Josh

St8line pretty well has it on what you'll need although I wouldn't go with the belly for anything other then a liner and that's iffy. I always end up wanting to kick my own butt anytime I compromise on leather quality. Yes it's expensive but when it's all said and done if it's built on crappy leather it's kinda crappy, no matter how good your work turned out. Just my 2 cents.... Good luck, Josh

I've been working on a saddle but had to take a week off to knock out a few things that couldn't wait any longer. Since I was putting pics on the computer I figured I'd share these too. Here are a few knife sheathes. The ones for the dagger and skinner were made off of tracings I did while I was out in UT for the Holiday's so no knives to show with them :-( Here are two lefty IWB holsters, same basic thing just for different guns.

A year and a half after saddle #2 was finished I started #3, here are a few progress pics. I only work leather in the early mornings before my "real" job and a little on the weekends so this represents about 2 weeks worth of work. The saddle is for my wife and I'm hoping to be done by Valentines day, we'll see how that works out. Anyway, it's on a Bowden tree with 14/16 HO. I'll post some more pics when it gets finished. Hope everybody has a good weekend! Josh

Yes sir, the burnishing marks are permanent. Best regards, Josh

Springfield Leather or Tandy. SLC calls theirs "synthetic shearling", Tandy calls theirs "synthetic wool". Good luck, Josh

Hello Lori, my thoughts (for what they're worth) is that latigo would be a little risky for both the straps and the holster. The great thing about latigo is that it's full of oils and waxes which make it flexible, this is not generally something I want in a holster, typiically I want them to be rigid. The reason I wouldn't use them for the straps is that you would most likely end up with purple rub off on whatever was underneath them, especially if you sweat at all. I have a paint horse with a white blotch on his girth area, new latigos give him a purple stripe. after some use they quit leaving the marks. Other then the "rub off" latigo would work great for the straps. Just my 2 cents, good luck with your rig however you decide to do it. Josh

Looks good! As far as "constructive comments", if it were me I'd round the corner at the back and even out the stitch line below the trigger guard as shown by the red lines below. That's just me though, it looks very good for a 3rd holster as is. Best regards, Josh

I use them seperately but know people who have the noseband in the browband loops. Seems like it's more personal preferance than "right or wrong". Best regards, Josh

thanks everybody! Mike, I agree on the makers stamp on the first one. It would have gone on the back or been left off but it's for my Mom and I figured she'd want to see iton there. Merry Christmas everybodyand Happy New Year!

Thanks guys! Miijo, it's basically built just like a ranger type belt. The main body on the billet end goes through the keeper under itself and the billet goes through the buckle, hopefully that makes sense :-)

Thanks guys!

Hey Chris, There really isn't a wrong answer on this. If it were me I'd use veg tan and put it back to back with the front, use whatever weight leather will give you a total thickness that you like. For example if 10-12 oz seems good for the finished piece and your front piece is 8 oz I'd go with something between 2 and 4 oz. Latigo or chap leather would also work well but it will be a little harder to get the edges to look as good since they don't burnish quite like veg tan. I probably wouldn't use suede but that's just me. Good luck! Josh

Lookin' good, you should have some very happy customers. Merry Christmas!

Thanks Mike!

Thanks Mike, hand stitched.

Here are a few new ones, a half breed for a single six, a field holster for a GP100 and a chest holster for a full size 1911. Thanks for looking, Josh