Josh Ashman

They really look nice Tony, great job. Best regards, Josh

St8line pretty well has it on what you'll need although I wouldn't go with the belly for anything other then a liner and that's iffy. I always end up wanting to kick my own butt anytime I compromise on leather quality. Yes it's expensive but when it's all said and done if it's built on crappy leather it's kinda crappy, no matter how good your work turned out. Just my 2 cents.... Good luck, Josh

I've been working on a saddle but had to take a week off to knock out a few things that couldn't wait any longer. Since I was putting pics on the computer I figured I'd share these too. Here are a few knife sheathes. The ones for the dagger and skinner were made off of tracings I did while I was out in UT for the Holiday's so no knives to show with them :-( Here are two lefty IWB holsters, same basic thing just for different guns.

A year and a half after saddle #2 was finished I started #3, here are a few progress pics. I only work leather in the early mornings before my "real" job and a little on the weekends so this represents about 2 weeks worth of work. The saddle is for my wife and I'm hoping to be done by Valentines day, we'll see how that works out. Anyway, it's on a Bowden tree with 14/16 HO. I'll post some more pics when it gets finished. Hope everybody has a good weekend! Josh

Yes sir, the burnishing marks are permanent. Best regards, Josh

Springfield Leather or Tandy. SLC calls theirs "synthetic shearling", Tandy calls theirs "synthetic wool". Good luck, Josh

Hello Lori, my thoughts (for what they're worth) is that latigo would be a little risky for both the straps and the holster. The great thing about latigo is that it's full of oils and waxes which make it flexible, this is not generally something I want in a holster, typiically I want them to be rigid. The reason I wouldn't use them for the straps is that you would most likely end up with purple rub off on whatever was underneath them, especially if you sweat at all. I have a paint horse with a white blotch on his girth area, new latigos give him a purple stripe. after some use they quit leaving the marks. Other then the "rub off" latigo would work great for the straps. Just my 2 cents, good luck with your rig however you decide to do it. Josh

Looks good! As far as "constructive comments", if it were me I'd round the corner at the back and even out the stitch line below the trigger guard as shown by the red lines below. That's just me though, it looks very good for a 3rd holster as is. Best regards, Josh

I use them seperately but know people who have the noseband in the browband loops. Seems like it's more personal preferance than "right or wrong". Best regards, Josh

thanks everybody! Mike, I agree on the makers stamp on the first one. It would have gone on the back or been left off but it's for my Mom and I figured she'd want to see iton there. Merry Christmas everybodyand Happy New Year!

Thanks guys! Miijo, it's basically built just like a ranger type belt. The main body on the billet end goes through the keeper under itself and the billet goes through the buckle, hopefully that makes sense :-)

Thanks guys!

Hey Chris, There really isn't a wrong answer on this. If it were me I'd use veg tan and put it back to back with the front, use whatever weight leather will give you a total thickness that you like. For example if 10-12 oz seems good for the finished piece and your front piece is 8 oz I'd go with something between 2 and 4 oz. Latigo or chap leather would also work well but it will be a little harder to get the edges to look as good since they don't burnish quite like veg tan. I probably wouldn't use suede but that's just me. Good luck! Josh

Lookin' good, you should have some very happy customers. Merry Christmas!

Thanks Mike!

Thanks Mike, hand stitched.

Here are a few new ones, a half breed for a single six, a field holster for a GP100 and a chest holster for a full size 1911. Thanks for looking, Josh

10 oz body, 8 oz billet & chape both HO with a JWP buckle and SS "D"'s from Weaver. Thanks for looking, Josh

Christmas presents for people who don't need holsters or tack :-) Thanks for looking, Josh

Yup, they're quite secure. I wore my Blackhawk while being the ground guy working a little group of calves this summer. I'd had it on when we gathered the cows and kept thiking I'd ditch it on a rail while we worked the calves but never got around to it, anyway it was just a small group but I wore it while I threw, branded and casterated 7 head. For just riding and general moving around they stay pretty well put. Best regards, Josh

A lot of people like chest holsters which are very handy when horseback or doing about any outdoor activity. They can be built as "cowboy" as a person would like. Here are a few I've made, one for my Ruger Blackhawk and another for a 1911Commander, I've also attached pics of them in use. It'd be easy enough to build something similar for a 92F. These are a simple "envelope" type holster with rings at the top and a D at the bottom, a back plate and some straps. Best regards, Josh

Jake, I use double cap rivets from both SLC and Weaver. They have the domed ends and I set them by hand using a domed rivet setting tool and a piece of 1" steel plate as a "bench anvil". The backside that is flat against the plate looks exactly like your pictures, flat as can be except the little dimple in the center. I believe the dimple is caused by the domed end being smashed flat but that really doesn't matter. Like Twin Oaks mentioned above, using regular double cap rivets and standard setting tools you can get the look you want, just use the flat sides of your setting tool and anvil to flatten the rivets when you set them. Good luck, Josh

That sure looks good to me, great job! Josh

Dave, I sure understand liking an exposed trigger on a Single Six. I had an old Idaho Leather rig like that growing up for a Ruger my dad gave me. We all like different things and looking at a picture on the computer doesn't really show the whole picture. Like I said before, just my two cents. :-) As for the moisture content, the stamping just looked a little "mushy" to me in the picture. Probably just the way it comes out on the computer. The color and white stiching looks very good. Best regards, Josh

Joel, I'll probably get scoffed at by some of the more experianced or more persnikity folks on here but I tell the treemaker the type of horses I expect the saddle to fit and let them figure out the bottom side of the tree. I buy into the "a saddle should fit a type of horse, not a specific horse" mentality and I trust that the treemaker understands his craft better than I do. Best regards, Josh