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Tree Reaper

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Everything posted by Tree Reaper

  1. It's not that you'll get hundreds of impressions but for your project I am assuming you'll only use each one once or twice (unless I'm wrong about that) that's what I meant by not being feasible.
  2. Well, if you don't know just ask, that's what the forum is for. I've got more than my fair share of help here.
  3. That doesn't seem very profitable Bob if you are only going to get to use them once or twice. What is the cost for one? They look good but it just doesn't seem feasible to me.
  4. Can anyone tell me if Angelus #4 Neutral is white in colour? I need a white penetrating dye.
  5. It's in your topic title. Less work with edge kote, that's the primary difference. Final appearance is personal preference.
  6. Thanks Wiz, I suspect it's a hole where the spring and washers keep tension on the nut. Good to know, I didn't see that adjustment in the manual.
  7. Is the split shaft threaded into the machine then as well?
  8. How do you set tension on a check spring on the cowboy 4500, the only adjustment I see is in the travel on not the tension?
  9. Depends how careful you are. You can close the open mouth of the V and all that will be left is a fine line that will be difficult to see and can be masked with dye and wax until you get it perfected but you want to get it as close as you can.
  10. Black River has hole punches, you'd have to inquire if they were expanding the die selection. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54331&hl=dies#entry348146
  11. You can tape down the outer edge with masking tape and use a few lighter passes with a very sharp blade applying pressure straight down.
  12. Are you notching the gusset corners? Is the foot pressure adequate? Sometimes you have to push the leather through to help the machine along.
  13. When the top of my reverse lever is resting at 0, the linkage in your picture is straight up and down. I have the cowboy 4500.
  14. The best time to tan any hide is fresh off the carcass. Raw furs are just air dried and shipped to the auction house without salting. The fat is scraped off using a fleshing tool, you can buy them from a trapping supply. The hide is nailed to a sheet of plywood and raised off the board to dry. Type of tan would depend on the purpose for the hide but a place like Van Dykes Taxidermy would have everything you need.
  15. The biggest problem I see with the last stitch is not being able to see the needle because the inside foot just has a hole in it and the needle can't be seen. That's where an open inside foot makes a difference, you can see where the needle is hitting. I'd like to buy the foot without the hole and put a slot in it.
  16. What's the fire starter look like?
  17. That's the way it works. The only thing you might do different is stitch without the thread until the holes get lined back up then stitch with the thread back in place. I've been doing the last stitch manually, start bringing the needle down and see where it's going to hit, move the leather and drop the needle into place by hand using the wheel and keep stitching to lock. I recently saw a video where you can use the stitch lever to stop it where you want and I'll be trying that next. Check out the video in this thread... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54281&hl=
  18. Any idea what your top tension is, I'm running at about 12 oz., a little over 1/2 lb. You could probably step up one needle size.
  19. Check this out first. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=40825&hl=+reverse%20+stitch&page=3
  20. I'm in the Sault. If you get a chance stop into Princess Auto and have a look at it. It comes on sale every year if you want to wait and save some money.
  21. I haven't used it for a clicker yet, I'm waiting until I start duplicating something. I'll be placing a heavy steel plate over the die. The cutting board will likely come from Texas when the time comes to get a die. I use it for molding and gluing molds. The best feature is the gauge. Where are you located David?
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