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Tree Reaper

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Everything posted by Tree Reaper

  1. You can tape down the outer edge with masking tape and use a few lighter passes with a very sharp blade applying pressure straight down.
  2. Are you notching the gusset corners? Is the foot pressure adequate? Sometimes you have to push the leather through to help the machine along.
  3. When the top of my reverse lever is resting at 0, the linkage in your picture is straight up and down. I have the cowboy 4500.
  4. The best time to tan any hide is fresh off the carcass. Raw furs are just air dried and shipped to the auction house without salting. The fat is scraped off using a fleshing tool, you can buy them from a trapping supply. The hide is nailed to a sheet of plywood and raised off the board to dry. Type of tan would depend on the purpose for the hide but a place like Van Dykes Taxidermy would have everything you need.
  5. The biggest problem I see with the last stitch is not being able to see the needle because the inside foot just has a hole in it and the needle can't be seen. That's where an open inside foot makes a difference, you can see where the needle is hitting. I'd like to buy the foot without the hole and put a slot in it.
  6. That's the way it works. The only thing you might do different is stitch without the thread until the holes get lined back up then stitch with the thread back in place. I've been doing the last stitch manually, start bringing the needle down and see where it's going to hit, move the leather and drop the needle into place by hand using the wheel and keep stitching to lock. I recently saw a video where you can use the stitch lever to stop it where you want and I'll be trying that next. Check out the video in this thread... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=54281&hl=
  7. Any idea what your top tension is, I'm running at about 12 oz., a little over 1/2 lb. You could probably step up one needle size.
  8. Check this out first. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=40825&hl=+reverse%20+stitch&page=3
  9. I'm in the Sault. If you get a chance stop into Princess Auto and have a look at it. It comes on sale every year if you want to wait and save some money.
  10. I haven't used it for a clicker yet, I'm waiting until I start duplicating something. I'll be placing a heavy steel plate over the die. The cutting board will likely come from Texas when the time comes to get a die. I use it for molding and gluing molds. The best feature is the gauge. Where are you located David?
  11. I have the one from Princess Auto that resembles that one and may be the same. It's 10 ton and you will have no problem clicking with it. The area is the only limiting factor so if your combined clicking area is within 6 inches wide by 10 inches long it will work.
  12. It's easy to do but the problem is multiple letters in the same name, you would need at least two and maybe more identical letter stamps.
  13. "burnish my edges, dye, and finish my piece" dye, finish with sealer, burnish, assemble.
  14. Herman oak belly strips from Springfield are pliable.
  15. What style of laser is it?
  16. The bottom line looks like it got flattened out by a hand or something that was resting on it. The other two aren't bad but long steady runs are better than short strokes with several stops in between.
  17. Steelcity, do you have a picture of that one? Thanks.
  18. You'll nail it sooner or later. Are you keeping the deer fed over there?
  19. That's what I was looking for, thanks Wiz. Can you modify those or do the need that plated finish?
  20. Jake; You would probably need to start with a solid core of leather and wrap that.
  21. Is there an illustrated list of presser feet options available for the cowboy 4500?
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