Tree Reaper

Are there instructions for that somewhere by chance? Is it around the edge and then stitched? Thanks for the follow up. Kevin.

Have you looked at this lacing punch ? http://springfieldleather.com/29097/Punch%2C4-in-1%2CLacing-Hole/

I thought you were only going to have one layer on top with the holes and a solid colour underneath. For more than one layer you could use a jig with dowels and just drop the glued strap on top of the first one, that way all the holes line up. To punch through more than one layer, one complete strap at a time you could purchase the tubes and make your own punch from a block of wood or plastic, the only other option would be to have a shop make it for you. If you purchased the tubes a machine shop would likely charge you a hundred bucks or so to lay out a block and mill it. Another option would be a drill press, make your layout , center punch each + and then drill each one.

Do a search on eBay, you can buy perforated leather. Fiberglass tape may solve the other problem.

You shouldn't have to do that because it's a penetrating dye, at least from what I see in the video. It's usually best to follow the manufactures recommendations and he doesn't mention wetting the leather prior to applying the dye. Well, maybe you should look at this link . http://www.willghormley-maker.com/OldDogsAndNewTricks.html

This is the actual one I purchased, it was from MSC Industrial and not Mcmaster. It's 24 inches long and I cut it in half. http://www.mscdirect.com/product/31935091?searchAhead=true&searchAheadTerm=31935091&typahddsp=31935091&hdrsrh=true

Did you see this He stipulates shaking the bottle before you remove the cap.

I bought knife rubber but I find it's too soft, tears and will leave marks behind in the rubber which will affect any other molding. It likely works good on thin items like knives but I've had problems with larger items.

Wiz, Texas Custom Dies has the cutting pad, http://www.texascustomdies.com/products.php I bought the gum rubber for my press at mcmaster , 40 durometer. http://www.mcmaster.com/#gum-rubber-sheets/=r5ipap

Weaver has a whack of them.

Wrong leather for embossing. Try veg tanned or Herman Oak police gear leather from Springfield.

You might be better off to dilute the Tan Kote. Tan Kote should wipe the excess off dye. Did you buff the dye? Was that Tandy leather? When I dye I remove the excess with a damp sponge.

Eco-Flo Gel Antique Saddle Tan. Your walnut is probably darker but don't panic if it's looks too dark some of it will come off when you wipe on the tan kote. Just don't let the dye sit on the leather too long before you wipe it off, you can always reapply if you want it darker.

I used neatsfoot on the entire piece (in moderation).

Wizcrafts has been sewing for 120 years and he buys thread from Bob.

I used neatsfoot oil on that and let it sit for a couple of days. Put the dye on heavy and make sure it fills the impressions, wipe off the excess with a damp sponge then a clean paper towel before it dries. Let it dry then put on a thin coat of tan kote then let that dry. Paint the letters, a few times and then seal with resolene or super shene. It's better if you can spray the finishes on, you won't get streaking.

Bob contributes to keep this site going.

Harry; Give cowboy Bob a call, he'll help you. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb3200.html

I wouldn't wash it unless you have a way of tumbling it because it will be stiff as a board and just to mention warm water will shrink it. I think you're stuck with it unless you can air it out or try and neutralize it somewhat with a spray on the flesh side. They use anything from urine to brains to all kinds of chemicals to tan hides with. Something like this might work if you spray it on. http://www.wikihow.com/Remove-Cat-Urine-Smell

Hi Diane; Is this the result you are looking for?

I just made one out of wood to hold the letters.

It's an additional expense but once you acquire a good edge a buffing machine is a quick way to touch it up. I bought an 8" Enco buffer and I use it every time I'm doing leather work. It takes seconds to get a good edge back on punches and knives.

You can hand stamp individual letters or press complete words providing you have a jig to hold the individual letters and a large enough press. I use a wooden fence to keep the letters straight.

I was thinking that too but 45oz. is a pretty good weight. I've had problems with every one of those punches , they take quite a bit of work to get them close to cutting. J, if you crack that table don't even stop to pack, just get out and don't stop running for at least two days.

Bluesman; I'm going to try Fiebing's Dura Edge and mask along the top to get a nice even line, that may be the answer. I've never used it and don't have any but it's worth a try.