Tree Reaper

I just went through that with 138 too, ended up using the machine to punch the holes and then hand stitched.

How about velcro?

That's where the gauge is handy, I can tell exactly if I've got 1/2 ton or more on anything I press.

You can try a single sheet of 40 top and bottom Wiz to see how it works for you, I'm still using single sheets and they work for me. Two sheets of the same wouldn't work as well as one thick one. Did you buy a press with a gauge on it?

The trade off might be in the detail you get from each process.

Thanks Wiz, the feed dog is in with the standard plate. Now that you're telling me it shouldn't change stitch length I'll try it on some scrap leather before I change any settings, the problem I had was with stingray. UPDATE It's the material, leather stitching is good on leather. Stingray is a challenge! Another problem solved, thanks again.

I found a description and it's just a very narrow turned edge or welt sewn around the edge of the wallet.

When sewing a wallet the stitch per inch changes with the thickness of leather from 1/8 of an inch where the interiors are to 1/16 where they aren't. Would you dial in a longer stitch per inch for the thinner material or just keep it the same and live with the change in stitch on the wallet?

That's where the two inch would work.

Two inches will allow the rubber to form better around the object before it bottoms out. One inch will work but two would work better in my opinion. Considering how hard the rubber is I think I'm only getting (maybe) a half inch or so compression before it bottoms out. It's good quality rubber and is ideal for what our intended use is.

I haven't got enough Wiz, the mats are only 12 inches and once you put a holster between it there isn't much left. The 40 is hard, you can't squeeze it between your fingers where the knife foam you can squeeze between your fingers. Here is a picture of the two, you can see the black knife foam is ripped from pressing. I'd like to get some 2 inch 40 for what I'm doing.

I'm using blue guns but you want a layer on top and the bottom when pressing. 40 isn't too hard but the rubber I have is one piece and not layered. If you go softer than 40 the rubber may separate and tear for what you're using it for, that's what happened to me.

That needle is small for that thread as you already mentioned. I'm using one needle size larger than the thread size. The other problem could very well be a lack of bobbin tension looking at the pictures. If that was my machine I would increase the bobbin tension slightly and try it, you may have to loosen the top tension a little after that. Just keep track of what you adjust so you can put it back. You'll have to layer some scrap and try it until you get it working. Someone else may have another opinion. Even though it seems to be stitching fine when the machine is running I would stitch a piece of layered scrap and then separate the layers to see where the knot is between the layers, you may find the knot is quite near the top.

Sounds like too much top tension. What size needle and thread are you using, how thick is the leather, pictures of the stitching top and bottom will help. If it was sewing properly at one time then it's likely just a tension problem.

Are there instructions for that somewhere by chance? Is it around the edge and then stitched? Thanks for the follow up. Kevin.

Have you looked at this lacing punch ? http://springfieldleather.com/29097/Punch%2C4-in-1%2CLacing-Hole/

I thought you were only going to have one layer on top with the holes and a solid colour underneath. For more than one layer you could use a jig with dowels and just drop the glued strap on top of the first one, that way all the holes line up. To punch through more than one layer, one complete strap at a time you could purchase the tubes and make your own punch from a block of wood or plastic, the only other option would be to have a shop make it for you. If you purchased the tubes a machine shop would likely charge you a hundred bucks or so to lay out a block and mill it. Another option would be a drill press, make your layout , center punch each + and then drill each one.

Do a search on eBay, you can buy perforated leather. Fiberglass tape may solve the other problem.

You shouldn't have to do that because it's a penetrating dye, at least from what I see in the video. It's usually best to follow the manufactures recommendations and he doesn't mention wetting the leather prior to applying the dye. Well, maybe you should look at this link . http://www.willghormley-maker.com/OldDogsAndNewTricks.html

This is the actual one I purchased, it was from MSC Industrial and not Mcmaster. It's 24 inches long and I cut it in half. http://www.mscdirect.com/product/31935091?searchAhead=true&searchAheadTerm=31935091&typahddsp=31935091&hdrsrh=true

Did you see this He stipulates shaking the bottle before you remove the cap.

I bought knife rubber but I find it's too soft, tears and will leave marks behind in the rubber which will affect any other molding. It likely works good on thin items like knives but I've had problems with larger items.

Wiz, Texas Custom Dies has the cutting pad, http://www.texascustomdies.com/products.php I bought the gum rubber for my press at mcmaster , 40 durometer. http://www.mcmaster.com/#gum-rubber-sheets/=r5ipap

Weaver has a whack of them.

Wrong leather for embossing. Try veg tanned or Herman Oak police gear leather from Springfield.