Tree Reaper

Search for pattern stitching machine, call the dealer and ask if they have a customer near you.

Thanks for posting that video, I didn't know I could use the reverse lever half way through a stitch to back up from the edge.

...or use a hole punch, glue the discs together and then compress them in a block of wood with the same size hole using a release agent on the wood. Use a tapered reamer on a block of wood, add particles of leather and glue, use a release agent and compress that together.

I wouldn't reinvent the wheel on this one, a company like Duluth Trading has been making these for years and I'm sure they have all the problems solved. Have a look at their products.

Wetting it would cause it to stretch which in turn would make the wraps tighter. Another option would be to glue multiple layers together flat and then finish it using a rasp and sandpaper while turning it in a drill press or lathe. Cut it rough on a band saw first and then rasp it.

I was thinking a hammer drill would not only spin but hammer at the same time. A standard rivet setting tool might work in the chuck. I plan on trying this sometime.

You're welcome Andy, you did a good job explaining the process.

The pins are rivets, buy the proper length and the tools to set them, the other is a line 24 snap, again the proper length required for the thickness of leather and the setting tools. Leather thickness usually goes by weight so you should be looking at 6 to 8 oz. which would be about 3mm.

By Redochre Drawing a square with a compass/dividers & Rule. You will need: Compass/dividers, rule & a pencil. Steps: 1. Draw 2 parallel lines the height of your square apart (for this I did 100mm approx 4") 2. Decide on a start point. (Point A) Pic1 3. Set compass to approx 25mm/1" and mark both sides of point A. These will become point B & C. Pic2 4. Open the compass approx 125mm/5". From point B & C mark an arch high above point A. They should cross over, this is now point D. Pic3/4. 5. Draw a line through point D & A. You should now have a 90degree line. Pic5 6. Repeat steps 2-5 for the final side of the square or simply use the rule & measure across. This great for template making when you don't have a set square. You can use Pythagoras to make sure the line is 90degrees.

OK; Have a blast!

I use rubber cement and glue it down to cereal box cardboard, there are other options like cutting the leather large and taping it down then cutting it later depending on what you're doing to the flesh side of the leather. Double face tape would be another option. Once the leather has been oiled and dyed it should remain flat, just tape the edges of the cardboard to something flat so it stays that way until it's completely dry.

The sealer is used to protect it, aging will still darken it and the neatsfoot will darken it some. The best thing to do is try your finish on some scrap to get the desired effect. Let it dry well between coats, the neatsfoot should only be applied to the finished side and let it dry a day or two before adding anything else. Someone else may offer other options but this is what I do.

You don't wet it then. A light coat of denatured alcohol will clean it then you will be bending it so I would apply one or two light coats of neatsfoot oil to help that. Then dye or what ever other finish you want. You may want to use a sealer to protect it. The only time you would use water is prior to bending the leather or folding it. Wet the joint where the leather bends, let it sit for a few minutes then bend the halves together and hold them in that position until it dries.

Will you be carving or stamping this leather?

I don't buck stitch but it looks like 3/16 to 1/4 inch from the edge in this video when you consider the lace is 1/8. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/Buckstitch-Lacing.aspx

Chief is a very experienced craftsman. I'd be curious to know the reason behind your option Chief.

I always try and go with the natural curve of the hide on the animal.

You're welcome, some people won't take two seconds to even say thank you.

If you can glue a backing like suede to it then it will lay flat but if you flex it then the surface of the leather will likely wrinkle although it will remain attached to the backing, it will be surface wrinkles that you see. If you want premium results always use premium leather, some places will cut the belly off if you request it. If they don't cut it off then you pay for it.

Belly leather will do that, what part of the side did you take it from?

Hit the save key just above close on the picture and you'll get a smaller picture.

This is the buckle I ordered, http://www.granitebuckaroo.com/catalog/images/buckle04000floralbkass.JPG I'm generally not in a rush but I have a belt waiting to go out the door and the order was still being processed after ten days or more so that's why I was trying to contact him in the first place. He seems like a decent guy with maybe one too many irons in the fire.

Andy; If it will help I can give you my personal email and you can send them to me and I'll post them along with your write up. Kevin

Thanks Rayban, he emailed a few days later saying the buckles had been back ordered but I wasn't aware of that at the time. He was quick at sending them out once he got them.

You can get single left and right feet. If you just used a left foot then the rolled edge wouldn't interfere it. The problem is your right foot can't sit on that rolled edge and wants to fall off pushing the collar to the left. Another option would be to slow down and operate the wheel by hand until the needle is in the stitching position just above the leather on every stitch. This is a single left foot http://shop.raphaelsewing.com/images/5100-left-toe-foot.jpg