Tree Reaper

If the leather you use is thick enough, say 8+ oz. it will work. If using lighter weight leather then the cap will have to be drilled. When you counter bore the leather don't go too deep, the head of a chicago screw is about 3/64 thick so if you bore into the leather 1/32 the head of the screw will be doing all the work and the wood cap will just sit on top for decoration. File the head of the screw with a file or sandpaper to rough it up, clean with alcohol and use 10 minute JB Weld to glue the cap to the screw head like shtoink first suggested and you'll have what you want. Use a flush cut saw http://www.homedepot.ca/wcsstore/HomeDepotCanada/images/catalog/DWHT20541_3.jpg to trim off the stubs and sand flush. Drill a hole in a scrap piece of wood and put the cap in the hole to hold it while you cut and sand it. Good luck with your project.

Without the counter bore you don't get a tight fit. The leather must be counter bored or the cap must be counter bored in order for the wood to sit tight on the leather and not ride too high. I think the best and final decision would be to just cut the stub off the cap and counter bore the leather 1/32 " deep. You won't have to drill the cap just the leather, quick and simple. Glue the cap to the chicago screw and you're off to the races.

shtoink; It just dawned on me earlier today when the wheels were still turning. The screw I used has a bit of a convexed head so I would take a flat file to it for a better fit. David; I don't mind helping you because I know you appreciate the help. You can use a forstner bit with a hand drill, I used a drill press. The bits are relatively inexpensive. http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/forsbit.htm?zoom_highlight=forstner+bits http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/DM_FreudFB104_Bits.jpg The smaller hole is the pilot hole. Those are hardwood screw caps and can be bought at a hardware store, they have a stub on them that can be cut off so the bottom is flush. http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/216k5hOreEL.jpg I used a similar jig, just a larger hole to match the larger cap. It only took seconds to bore it out, to put it in the jig , clamp it and drill it less than a minute. Cutting the stub off took about 15 seconds. If I used the same caps I would grind the pilot down a little because the caps aren't very thick.

I would buy a forstner bit the size that matches your chicago screw head. Depending on the thickness of your cap you might have to grind the pilot down on the bit so it doesn't come through the cap. If you had to do that I would use one good bit to start the bore and then use the ground off pilot on a second bit to finish it to the proper depth.

Another option is to drill out the base of the wood cap and glue it to a standard chicago screw.

One other option providing the leather is thick enough is to use the counter bore method and a standard rivet then glue your wood cap to the metal rivet cap with JB Weld.

This is the difference between the two depth settings. They both have the 1/8 dowel hole but the one on the right is counter bored with a forstner bit in order to sink it deeper into the leather. These are plugs but you can also buy caps which are a lower profile.

The last sentence was for a counter bore, this is a larger hole on top of the smaller dowel hole so the cap can sink down into the leather, you can make it fit flush to the leather surface if you want. I'll try and do that tomorrow and post it to show you what I mean.(I'm watching the hockey game) The jig is just a scrap piece of wood, the plugs I had on hand are 1/4"dia. I drilled a 1/4" hole in the scrap wood and then cut across it with a band saw. To drill the plug, put it in the hole and place a clamp on the outside of the scrap jig. This squeezes the plug in the hole and locks it for drilling. The dowel is 1/8" stock from a local hardware store. You can get a cheap plug cutter and cut your own plugs from any rough stock or use commercial plugs and rough them up with a sander on a dremel. These are cheap and strong and should serve your purpose.

Right on WB, I think I would opt for a nice burnished edge on that.

Thanks, my feelings were hurt.

It took about twenty minutes for me to make that wooden rivet and the jig used to hold the caps to enable drilling. You can glue the dowel in the fixed hole, put the dowel through the leather and all the way through the other plug or cap with glue and then clamp it tight. When the glue dries you trim off the excess dowel and sand flush. Just put the plug with the sanded dowel on the bottom side. This will be much stronger than anything threaded. If you want the wooden caps to sit lower in the leather then punch the right size hole for the dowel and then counter bore for the plug itself.

I'm thinking it could be done with a plain concho, faced with leather that has been stamped with the boy scout leather stamp then add your snap to the back side of the concho.

You can buy the dowel and caps or plugs, make a jig, drill the plugs, one partially and the other through for adjustment.

http://www.amazon.com/H824-Antique-Brass-Clipboard-Clips/sim/B009OGDWFG/2

Look at it as more money in your pocket and a reason not to repair a mistake made by someone else.

www.strapworks.com/Spring_Buckle_p/sb.htm

The problem using a press is the leather will stick to the needle unlike a sewing machine that uses a foot to hold the leather down while the needle raises out of the leather. It can be a pain unless you develop something mechanical to hold the leather down.

Offer a custom cover to protect it, more business for you!

With penetrating dyes?

Probably JB Weld around the rivet if I was doing it.

Nice work strudell, thanks for posting the pictures.

I would prefer glue over a rivet.

I don't like trimming either but this jig I made makes it easier when I have to. I use a drill bit to trim the post down and it works quite well.

I've chrome tanned beaver tails and with the proper chemicals it takes about a week. Check Van Dykes Taxidermy to see what they have for kits.

If you are doing any amount of leather work you'll need all sizes. Get the longest posts you can with line 24 snaps and you can always cut them down but the best idea is to get some of every size.