Tree Reaper

http://www.mutualhardware.com/Theatrical-Set-Hardware/Hanging-Hardware/Dee-Ring-Plate-and-Welded-Dee-Ring

You're welcome. The method I use for lining belts is to stretch the leather the length of a board, pull a few inches of each end of the belt over each end of the board and then staple the leather to the bottom of the board. This keeps it tight for not only gluing but tight for laying the top lining layer down as well. You have a few options now so good luck.

I don't know if your English Bridle leather will mark but you can test a small piece. Take a wide piece of masking tape stuck to the good side and beyond the edge of the leather strap, lay that down on something solid with the sticky edges of the tape up and then take two more strips of masking tape and with tape to tape secure the bottom strap. This will keep the bottom strap stretched out so all you have to fiddle with is the top strap. If this won't work for you then tape across the bottom strap all the way down with strips of masking tape removing them as you progress with attaching the top strap but before doing this test to make sure the masking tape will release from the dried contact cement.

You can do that. I would contact cement the two together. Put the cement on each half, let it dry, put wax paper between the two, line them up and pull the paper out slowly while lining up the two halves.

Did you square the pattern up before you traced it?

You will lose some height with a smaller press when using a chuck so keep that in mind when choosing a press.It's also worthwhile having the adapter for the stamps if you still find one.

You can buy the chuck if you don't have a spare one kicking around, they have a threaded hole in the back and this one happens to be a Jacobs 3/8 chuck with a 3/8-24 right hand threaded hole. A 3/8-24 bolt with the head cut off or 3/8-24 threaded rod is cut to length and then turned into the 3/8-24 hole in the ram, add a flat washer and screw the chuck onto the threaded portion of the rod protruding from the bottom of the ram. I also have the short adapters for the stamps where I can take the chuck out and screw in the adapter that I had threaded to 3/8-24.

I removed the ram and had a machine shop drill and tap it.

My press will use a chuck or an adapter for stamps.

I made a stingray wallet and next time I would use black thread because the stitch line will wander slightly and black would be less noticeable. I didn't have any trouble cutting it from the flesh side and edging requires a thick coating.

Have a look at these, you may see one you like. https://www.google.ca/search?q=images+for+axe+sheaths&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=oPINVa6gCcejgwTX0oK4CA&ved=0CB0QsAQ&biw=800&bih=472

That looks good, it will really come to life with a little dye.

How much of the post is protruding past the point you want it to set? You should have about 3/32".

This is the same method they use for softening raw fur. Zip it or button it up and just let it tumble without the heat as Tom mentioned.

Tumble it in a dryer with a few hard rubber balls.

The tail should have a bone and meat in it. The tail gets pulled from the bone and then is split on the bottom side, tanned and then tacked out to dry. If the bone is still in it then it will be a little more work trying to get it out now that it's off the animal.

You could just turn your material around.

The NT circle cutter makes nice clean holes in leather. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NT-Cutter-iC-1500P-Leathercraft-Circle-Compass-Cutter-for-Leather-with-6-Blades-/111560558611?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f9870813

When I was buying Osborne tools every one required sharpening out of the box.

I use E-Z snap and zipper lubricant, it helps too.

Would a pull on the zipper help her?

Ohio Travel Bag has an eyelet with a 7/32 flange length.

Tim answers questions on this topic.

http://www.tolindsewmach.com/walking-foot.html If I were you I would contact a dealer on this site and ask if they have a used machine that will suit your needs.