Tree Reaper

It's doable but you would need a micro lathe. It looks like a pin within a sleeve but it could be turned as one piece. The good news for me is, on my last snap I used a little JB weld on the snap itself for added security because it was going to be covered with a lining and a little got on the pin. When the pin was depressed into the die it became stuck inside and appeared as if the end was broken off but I couldn't find the loose end anywhere. I took the die apart and retrieved the pin and could see small traces of the JB on the pin. I polished it with emery and now it's free to slide back and forth again. From now on I'll clean the dies with alcohol after using the JB. It would still be nice to find parts for these expensive dies for the future.

Just what I expected. Ask for a part and they want to sell you a die. I don't really have any further questions just another headache from dealing with never ending incompetence.

When the thread loops on top it can be an indication of insufficient bobbin tension.

I have dies from OTB, there is an adapter for the small set of dies that allow them to be used in the Tandy press and for the larger dies you can purchase a bottom die holder that can be placed on the Tandy press but the best option in my opinion would be to counter bore the Tandy press to accept the larger OTB dies and use an insert to use the smaller Tandy dies.

I agree, another reason not to purchase Tandy dies. This is a good example to anyone else considering a press or any other expensive tool, if you can't get parts for it, why buy it? Maybe they'll surprise me!

Anyone know where to buy a replacement pin for the Tandy 3996-00 line 24 eyelet die? I've contacted Tandy and I'm waiting to hear back but I have a feeling they won't have parts for their dies. Thanks.

That's very nice, how durable is it?

Get a moderator to move your question here http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?s=dffad530a8529de0057ef8996ca783d0&showforum=50 You'll have better results. If the machine was jamming , chances are that something was forced out of place.

Have a look at welding goggles. https://www.google.com/search?q=welding+goggles&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0CEUQsARqFQoTCMzvnMmP-ccCFYIxiAodLFgLfg&biw=792&bih=463#imgrc=4oaH1P4qI0C5OM%3A

I wouldn't use a router on leather, it will grab, just too dangerous. You can use a small block plane with a sharp blade to skive leather.

OTB is a fantastic company to do business with. Great customer service.

This is what I use, usually two applications. http://www.homedepot.com/p/PC-Products-16-oz-PC-Petrifier-Wood-Hardener-164440/100649629

This company supports the forum. http://leatherladyproductions.com/adservices/www/delivery/ck.php?oaparams=2__bannerid=74__zoneid=2__cb=40bf0e3422__oadest=http%3A%2F%2Flwleathers.com%2Fproducts%2Fleather-embossing

You might make this work. http://www.jizni.co.za/holster-accessories/227-design-tech-v2-paddle.html

Try strapworks. Customer Service & Support - Support@strapworks.com

PC-Petrifier from Home Depot works.

You can use a roller guide on the edge of your leather, straight edge on a table or keep the edge of the foot on the edge of the leather as you sew. The open foot is useful when you aren't stitching a straight edge. Where are you having a problem, at the start and stop or the running stitches?

For a duplicate you could buy brass flat stock and make them or if they don't have to match you can bend a brass wire around a dowel and make one similar. Other than that search for chain bar ends, you might find something similar.

A forstner bit will work but it will have to be cleaned up a few times while drilling because the end will get plugged but both sides top and bottom will be clean.

I had the same problem, same tool different attachment,I hadn't used it in a few years and just forgot how it worked. It happens to more than just a few of us I'm sure.

@7:45

http://www.mutualhardware.com/Theatrical-Set-Hardware/Hanging-Hardware/Dee-Ring-Plate-and-Welded-Dee-Ring

You're welcome. The method I use for lining belts is to stretch the leather the length of a board, pull a few inches of each end of the belt over each end of the board and then staple the leather to the bottom of the board. This keeps it tight for not only gluing but tight for laying the top lining layer down as well. You have a few options now so good luck.

I don't know if your English Bridle leather will mark but you can test a small piece. Take a wide piece of masking tape stuck to the good side and beyond the edge of the leather strap, lay that down on something solid with the sticky edges of the tape up and then take two more strips of masking tape and with tape to tape secure the bottom strap. This will keep the bottom strap stretched out so all you have to fiddle with is the top strap. If this won't work for you then tape across the bottom strap all the way down with strips of masking tape removing them as you progress with attaching the top strap but before doing this test to make sure the masking tape will release from the dried contact cement.

You can do that. I would contact cement the two together. Put the cement on each half, let it dry, put wax paper between the two, line them up and pull the paper out slowly while lining up the two halves.