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Tree Reaper

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Everything posted by Tree Reaper

  1. Has Bob got the 24's Wiz? His chart goes from 23 to 25. I don't think lubrication alone will help Sturme, the thread is not only shredding but it's getting bunched up in the race. Thanks for the help.
  2. The only thing I know that makes wax move is heat so if you moderately heated the leather with the flesh side up it will draw the wax and tallow away from the flesh side.
  3. Better penetration with the oil. You can put mink on after the neatsfoot dries a couple of days, sno-seal would be better for an axe sheath.
  4. Can anyone tell me why my thread would be breaking on stingray and how to correct it ,no problem sewing leather, thanks. I searched the archives but nothing came up. I'm thinking I should be using a large needle and smaller thread, maybe less tension? I am using a 23 needle and 138 thread. I suspect the thread is being cut by the calcium. Kevin.
  5. You can soak it completely in warm water for twenty seconds and then press it with the axe in it between two pieces of foam. Let it stay that way for three hours, take it out and let it dry and then treat it with neatsfoot oil.
  6. I don't think you'll every find a glue that will bond to that.
  7. They have an 800 number, you can call and ask them if they sell to someone close to you. They'll have a customer list that you can even order from.
  8. You could buy a piece of metal U channel or go with the conventional bar snap ... http://springfieldleather.com/18937/Snap%2CBar%2CBp%2C10pk/ edge trim is another option ... http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Build-Your-Edge-Trim/Edge-Trims/All-Product-Categories_107/Edge-Trim-Product-Builder_87.aspx
  9. You can buy channel and crimp it on but I don't think it will look as good as the corners.
  10. A mexican braid dresses up an edge. Ohio Travel Bag has crimp on corners that are metal.
  11. You can dress a water stone pretty quick with a carbide flattening stone.
  12. Japanese water stones are what I use for sharpening planer blades. For swivel knife blades, I just keep them sharp with green compound.
  13. Give this a read, it's fairly recent ... http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=53674&hl=
  14. Sounds like it's too wet or/and your stamping surface is not hard and solid.
  15. Renee;They work very well for items like belts. I clamp one end of the belt to a board and shave the far end. If you have trouble and aren't getting good results let me know and I'll help you with it. Kevin.
  16. Thanks for posting your efforts, looks good. I stumbled on one today for $4 like the one I wanted to make so I bought it. http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/ODNYMzUw/z/GacAAOxyFPNSJjC~/$T2eC16dHJGIFFoqWmqOjBSJjC-mEhw~~60_1.JPG
  17. It may not be acid but salt because pickling salt is also used. It shouldn't bother the hides but it will cause a rash on bare skin with something like a watch strap. Bronze and stainless steel hardware will be more resistant to corrosion.
  18. You can use a little heat from a hair dryer and wipe the white off but neutralizing the chemicals in the hide might be more of a challenge. When I was chrome tanning I used baking soda for that purpose and tested the Ph with test strips but the hides were still wet and submersed in the tanning solution.
  19. Tallow is a natural product from an animal as far as I know and it shouldn't cause corrosion. It could be the tanning salts from chrome tanning but I couldn't say if your leather is chrome tanned or not.
  20. I wouldn't use a stone for swivel knife blades. Green compound on card stock is all you need to keep them razor sharp. For other leather tools, (not swivel knives) you can use a dremel with emery and the felt discs with green compound.
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