Tree Reaper

Any ideas on how they get this edge on stingray? It looks too even to be burnished. Thanks. Kevin

Deglaze it and start over. Did you dilute the tan kote? Did you let the oil soak in for a couple of days prior to adding the dye and tan kote?

If you put sno-seal on the boot and heat it in with a hair dryer then store them in a cool place you should see the wax appear on the surface. I've had this happen on black work boots.

No it's pounds, two and a half.

I want to make a correction on the thread tension. Today I measured the tension using a trigger gauge which is relatively accurate and these are the measurements. Combined leather thickness is 7 oz. Top thread tension out of the needle is 8 oz. Bobbin thread tension is 2.5 lbs. This is with 138 thread.

The needle also looks slightly turned to the right too far.

This is a chart from Bob's site. http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

Neatsfoot oil will do that. Gets darker with multiple coats.

Try pulling on your bobbin thread, if it pulls at roughly five or six pounds of pull you should be in the ball park so you can match your top tension to that and then adjust the top tension from there.

Is it green or tanned?

If the knot is on top there's too much top tension on my machine. I'll pull the top and bottom threads by hand and I have a little more bottom (bobbin)tension than top tension but they're pretty close to being the same. I leave the bobbin tension alone and just adjust the top tension when I have a problem like you are experiencing. Knot on the bottom, tighten the top tension, knot on the top, decrease top tension.

The neatsfoot will help rejuvenate the properties lost when soaking, the sno will protect it from moisture.

The problem I see with that design is the elastic is still fixed until it gets stretched so you will require a certain number of cards to keep the elastic stretched. You might want to consider something like chicago screws that will give you a better range of adjustment.

Ok, thanks Wiz. I'll give him a call tomorrow.

Has Bob got the 24's Wiz? His chart goes from 23 to 25. I don't think lubrication alone will help Sturme, the thread is not only shredding but it's getting bunched up in the race. Thanks for the help.

The only thing I know that makes wax move is heat so if you moderately heated the leather with the flesh side up it will draw the wax and tallow away from the flesh side.

Better penetration with the oil. You can put mink on after the neatsfoot dries a couple of days, sno-seal would be better for an axe sheath.

Can anyone tell me why my thread would be breaking on stingray and how to correct it ,no problem sewing leather, thanks. I searched the archives but nothing came up. I'm thinking I should be using a large needle and smaller thread, maybe less tension? I am using a 23 needle and 138 thread. I suspect the thread is being cut by the calcium. Kevin.

You can soak it completely in warm water for twenty seconds and then press it with the axe in it between two pieces of foam. Let it stay that way for three hours, take it out and let it dry and then treat it with neatsfoot oil.

I don't think you'll every find a glue that will bond to that.

They have an 800 number, you can call and ask them if they sell to someone close to you. They'll have a customer list that you can even order from.

You could buy a piece of metal U channel or go with the conventional bar snap ... http://springfieldleather.com/18937/Snap%2CBar%2CBp%2C10pk/ edge trim is another option ... http://www.trimlok.com/prod/Build-Your-Edge-Trim/Edge-Trims/All-Product-Categories_107/Edge-Trim-Product-Builder_87.aspx

You can buy channel and crimp it on but I don't think it will look as good as the corners.

A mexican braid dresses up an edge. Ohio Travel Bag has crimp on corners that are metal.

Thanks for the explanation.