Tree Reaper

The Dremel emery works. You can sharpen the inside and outside. http://www.ebay.ca/itm/6-Gray-Rubber-Polishing-Point-Cylinder-Dremel-427-Rotary-Dental-Jewelry-240-grit-/320854472747

The problem you are having is caused by not making a hole with a sharp stitching awl first. That speedy stitcher is only designed to penetrate cloth like material without a hole.

Good idea, you could use rubber grommets to downsize the holes if need be.

Monica, I used a carriage bolt with a wing nut. The carriage bolt head is flush with the wood so the thread doesn't get caught on it and the side with the wing nut has a leather flap over it. The leather is screwed into the wood over the wing nut and I use a 24 snap on the other end. Tighten the wing nut down and then snap the flap over it. Your thread will get caught on those knobs and long rod as King's X mentioned. It looks well made and will last for years, it just needs a couple of tweaks. I like the large knob and you might be able to cover it but as is will cause you grief.

Wouldn't you wet mold the leather around a bowl like shape to get what you want?

I glue the keepers in place.

If I was doing that I would use 1/4 inch steel plate and force a piece of round stock mild steel through the hole with the leather around the end of the round stock and use my 10 ton shop press to force it through.

I wouldn't trust it for that application. Maybe for the back of a belt or strap but not the tool side. I've used it and the adhesion isn't great.

There are a variety of presses sold by Weaver, Ohio Bag etc., most are limited to 5-6 inch throats but you can phone them to verify. You might consider modifying a deep throat lever press. Buy the standard dies and modify the ram to accept them. http://www.amazon.com/ABS-Import-8600-0138-Throat-Capacity/dp/B00E0NG20U

Yes, I made that one and I have a smaller one for the arbor press. I had the same problem using the stamps and this is what I've settled on for not only lining them up but also using the straight edge for a reference as well. What I do is lay the letters out and get a measurement, subtract that from the over all distance between the borders, divide that by two and that's my starting point so I then put a pencil mark on the fence and place all the stamps along the fence starting at that mark and the distance at the other end should be the same as the starting mark on the fence.

This is one set up that I use and it works well.

I always use a wooden fence to place the stamps against, leave the last stamp in the impression, butt the next stamp against it and keep going. I put the leather under the fence so it can't move.

I forgot to mention putting suede on the back side to stiffen it up. Depending on the dye you use, you can block out the center or just use a brush with darker dye on the border. Someone else might use an air brush, there are different methods depending on what you already have to work with.

You could make a leather shield of the outline, bevel the border and darken it for contrast leaving the area behind the badge lighter. Stitch all around the border.

Do you have a picture of it?

Jeremy; Osborne and sharp are two words that should never be used in the same sentence! Have you priced out duplicating that blade? From what I have read, trying to re-harden something seldom produces good results.

Buy the length you need and that problem is solved.

I buy my blanks from Springfield as well, you'll like what you get and the results they produce.

The two questions I have, how deep of a throat will you require on the press and what's your budget?

It's probably crappy leather. If you buy Hermann Oak blanks, tool, oil and dye then that shouldn't happen.

PM Crystal; she might help you with it. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52999

I'm assuming this would be a hot water radiator? Depending on the humidity, you could see some mold during the summer if the cover is left on. Chemicals in the leather could be released as it is being heated so that may be a concern. It will dry out over time and may start to crack if not treated with oils and then you would be heating the oil and releasing those chemicals into the surrounding area. Probably not a good idea if it's for a confined space like a bedroom, health wise.

Another consideration might be a penetrating wood stain from the hardware store.

Tarrago makes a very good range of colours but it goes on like paint and scratches off. If the item isn't going to see any wear it might work for you. I just bought Taupe Gray dye and I knew on the first application it wasn't going to penetrate the leather.