Tree Reaper

Jeremy; Osborne and sharp are two words that should never be used in the same sentence! Have you priced out duplicating that blade? From what I have read, trying to re-harden something seldom produces good results.

Buy the length you need and that problem is solved.

I buy my blanks from Springfield as well, you'll like what you get and the results they produce.

The two questions I have, how deep of a throat will you require on the press and what's your budget?

It's probably crappy leather. If you buy Hermann Oak blanks, tool, oil and dye then that shouldn't happen.

PM Crystal; she might help you with it. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=52999

I'm assuming this would be a hot water radiator? Depending on the humidity, you could see some mold during the summer if the cover is left on. Chemicals in the leather could be released as it is being heated so that may be a concern. It will dry out over time and may start to crack if not treated with oils and then you would be heating the oil and releasing those chemicals into the surrounding area. Probably not a good idea if it's for a confined space like a bedroom, health wise.

Another consideration might be a penetrating wood stain from the hardware store.

Tarrago makes a very good range of colours but it goes on like paint and scratches off. If the item isn't going to see any wear it might work for you. I just bought Taupe Gray dye and I knew on the first application it wasn't going to penetrate the leather.

I cut thin leather by rubber cementing it to poster board. I cement the leather to the cardboard and then use masking tape to hold the cardboard down to keep it from moving.

If I was doing that I would use my scroll saw. If they are all the same size you could order a cutting die. Another option would be to mark your outline, cut close to the edge so you can still see the mark and then finish it to the line by sanding.

I'm glad that's going to work for you. If you transfer the paper template to a cardboard template, mark the center fold line from the paper onto the center of the cardboard to give you a center reference on your leather. That way you'll have the two sides lined up and the center on center.

Seth; You can fold a piece of paper, mark half the width of the flap on the paper, place your compass on the fold and open it to where it meets the line, scribe, cut and open the paper and then transfer that to something heavier like cardboard and use that for a template.

Sorry about the confusion of typing dye instead of oil in my first post. I oil first because of a well known saddle maker that does the same and he's been doing it for a long time with good results.

The best thing to do would be try a piece that has two different colors and see how it turns out before dying an entire batch. I have always oiled veg tan prior to dying and have not experienced any problems.

Have you seen these ... http://www.tandyleatherfactory.ca/en-cad/search/site-search-results.aspx?sectionpath=3&processor=content&p_keyword=staples

You look at the thickness chart and decide how thick you want the leather for each project you're working on. http://d31snyb1jsf9xb.cloudfront.net/services/image.aspx/media/images-misc/ThicknessConversion.png-600x

Crystal; Those are absolutely fantastic.

It would be interesting to find out what a camera model made from a 3D printer would cost.

Do you have a particular style in mind?

I've had my 4500 for a couple of years and I'm still learning how to use it. These machines aren't plug and play and pilot error is at the top of the list when something happens. It takes time and mistakes to become proficient and you better have patience if you buy any machine. Bob's service is second to none and there's always lots of additional help on this forum. I'm very happy with my CB4500 and the service I have received from Toledo Industrial. I would recommend the machine and the dealer to anyone interested in buying a machine.

Use a good penetrating stain like Angelus ,buy better leather, dampen the leather and bend it prior to finishing when using the Eco Flo..

Search "snap fender hook". http://www.sailboatstuff.com/images/SnapFenderHook_LG.jpg Used in the marine industry. Ohio Travel Bag also sells one.

You're welcome! I spent a month thinking on and off about how I was going to hold that blade, tried pliers but the blade either went flying or it broke under the jaws. I first thought of a clothes pin but they didn't open wide enough and then I remembered those little spring clamps I wasn't using that came in a bag with the larger clamps I needed. Then the idea struck me to heat the blade and let it sink into the plastic jaws and now I have a dedicated clamp. It takes all of about five seconds to sharpen both sides. When I put the leather up against the blade and it won't advance by just pushing on the leather I know it's time to sharpen it.