Tree Reaper

Where is the rash, all over or just on your hands? Is it itchy, does it blister?

Welcome Quintans, your English is better than my Spanish.

That's a mini screw dee, I have not seen them smaller than 3/4 but search purse or handbag hardware and you may find something similar. http://www.pacifictrimming.com/default/bag/screw-hanger-170139.html

I use neatsfoot oil on just about everything I make out of leather. The finish will crack if it's too thick but if the leather is cracking then it could be too dry or too stale. I will also skive and wet on sharp bends.

You buy the thinner and thin it to your liking.

A piece of plastic conduit comes to mind with two end caps. Cut a narrow slot the length of the thread spool (or spools) in the middle for the thread and make a saddle for it to sit in or use U bolts. You can cut the pipe as long as you want to accommodate as many rolls as you want. You pull on the thread and it free spools inside the pipe.

Have a look at what others have done and put your own spin on it. https://www.google.ca/search?q=images+for+custom+motorcycle+seats&client=firefox-a&hs=UNC&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=gWmsUrf6MOnlyQG6qIHABA&ved=0CCsQsAQ&biw=893&bih=491&dpr=0.9

The beans are, it is a standard 14tpi on a diameter .600" which makes it a bastard size and not common. A standard 14 tpi is usually found on 7/16 hardware.

Well I just got back from the shop and they did a perfect job of turning out a tool I can use to sharpen these Osborne cutters safely.

Well done Tanya.

For round objects I'll lay out a square pattern behind the leather, it helps to have reference lines when stamping or carving.

Looks very nice, where did you come up with the pattern if you don't mind me asking.

For sure, I'll keep you posted on the results. It's amazing how something so simple can become so complicated. I know it's a copy right issue for them but I'm not asking about the process they use to make the tool, they didn't invent the thread and because it's a bastard thread you can't find it at the hardware store so it seems like a case of paranoia.

Their prices look a little wacky.

Very nice. I couldn't find a web site for them but I can call for their catalog. I just dropped my punch off with the shop and I may get it back as soon as tomorrow.

My thoughts EXACTLY. Thanks for that tip J.

All I was looking for was a piece of threaded rod or pipe to thread on the cutters in order to keep my fingers safely away from the buffing wheel when sharpening. They must think I want to sell the information to China. Osborne is now at the very bottom of my tool supply list. I'll buy from Japan before buying another Osborne tool. I know the machine shop I work with can duplicate the thread on a piece of brass or aluminum rod in a matter of minutes. So long Osborne!

Tan- Kote will give you a mellow finish.

I have SAE and Metric thread gauges Tom and I can match the thread but the diameter of the thread doesn't match the standard threads. I checked pipe threads and couldn't find a match also but I know you can make any thread you want on a lathe and I'm pretty sure that's what they've done. When I find out everyone will know. They would have been better off just telling me instead of making it a Big deal.

I'm trying to find out what the thread is on this tool so I can make a handle for it. The handle that comes with it has the self centering pin pressed into it and I can't use it to sharpen the cutting punches on my wheel. I contacted Osborne and they are treating it like a trade secret. It appears to be a bastard thread so they may be using their own thread. If I can't find out here I'll take it to a machine shop. Thanks. Kevin.

Yes it is Mike, right side gets chucked.

You can tool it but when done put a coat of neatsfoot oil on it prior to finishing. Allow the oil to dry at least 24 hours before finishing.

It's very difficult to cut square using a ruler . You start with a single straight cut then make the other three cuts using a square to get a perfect square cut in your leather. With a ruler you get all four cuts the exact same length but the cuts aren't square to each other. If you prefer to use the ruler for cutting then lay the pattern out with a square and then use your ruler to cut.

Try to concentrate on downward pressure more than side pressure on the straight edge. I use a steel framing square as well, more weight less movement and you can put a knee on the end to help hold it. Clamping for cutting long pieces works real well, I have a 4ft. aluminum straight edge for that. Sharp blade is a must.

It's in "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" How to sew with curved needles and awl.